Atlas Alco S-2 project

[Cajonpassfan]

Basic paint is done, I'll get photos up this weekend.

But before I really start into detail, last check on performance.  I got rid of the Atlas boxing gloves and put on 1015's, and ran it in the yard for about an hour just shuffling cars around testing it.   As I DO use hands-free magnetics, getting the couplers perfect on a primary yard switcher is key - pin height, angle, adequate shank swing, it's gotta be spot on.  The SW has been that good, it's got to match it in performance or exceed it.

And it is.   Wow.   

That's been my approach in N, I don't wait around for the ideal stuff, I'll get or make the best available at the time, but if something better shows up, out the old one goes.   So since about 1974 my primary switcher has evolved from a Rivarossi Atlas SW1500 with a modified cab roof, to a Life-Like SW, to the same shell with a Kato NW2 drive, to an Atlas S2, each time really raising the performance bar. 

Definitely a 'wouldn't have believed it until I tried it' exercise, but I spend enough time dumping on stuff that a reverse is in order periodically.  And in the 1972 era I'm modeling - a diesel transition era - I finally have the Alco yard switcher appropriate to the history.

Enjoying this immensely. Very nice work, Randy. Can you elaborate on how you did the aluminum aftermarket stack? Some time ago I built mine of styrene after grinding off the existing metal stack and it was a pita to fit properly...
Otto

[randgust]

From photos, I couldn't entirely tell if it was a tight oval or completely rectangular.

I took a piece of K&S thin wall aluminum tubing, put a piece of .020 styrene in it as a hold spacer, and crushed it absolutely flat in a vise.   Pulled out the styrene.  Surprisingly good.

I then drilled down into the metal shell .020 on both ends.   I had a broken .020 drill already, snapped that remainer in half, and used that as the mounting pins (drill shank bits) to hold the new metal stack in place on the metal shell.   ACC'd the entire mess after I'd filed off the original stack.

THEN I found out it really was rectangular.   Well, OK.   I hit the fore and aft edges with the dremel abrasive disk to get them flat instead of rounded.

That's worked, and it is really solid, not going to knock that off, and it's hollow, not solid, if you actually care.

The radio box is another story.  Oh, and then the canvas cab sunshades.....

[peteski]

But before I really start into detail, last check on performance.  I got rid of the Atlas boxing gloves and put on 1015's . . .

Randy, while I also don't care much for the knuckle couplers Atlas uses, I would never call them "boxing gloves".  That moniker seems to be reserved for the current Bachmann knuckle couplers, and even the Scale Trains couplers. McHenry couplers also almost fit that name.  All those are rather large compared to MTL N scale couplers.

Atlas uses Accumate couplers which are very close in size to the N scale MTL couplers, but Accumates do have a rather unusual (somewhat faceted) shape,  and their trip pin will drop put even if you look at them the wrong way.   

[randgust]

OK, somewhat of a progress shot.   Basic paint is done....



link:  http://www.randgust.com/Alco237704.jpg

I treasure my stash of Pollyscale ATSF blue, that's the best stuff I've found.   And the Badger Santa Fe Yellow is too yellow, I prefer reefer yellow as it's not as intense.   Yellow fades rapidly.

I finally gave up with the lit number boards, they are so tiny.  Masked around them, number is wrong, but you can't see it anyway.

The real challenge was the radio box.  It's a block of styrene with an elevated heat shield above it.  Did the heat shield in .005 brass, drilled it on the corners for .010, used that as a template to drill the styrene, soldered the wire to the underside of the shield and disked the top flush, ACC'd it all together.  It may not be the exact dimension but it's darn close.



Link: http://www.randgust.com/Alco237705.jpg

I did touchup paint, and hood decals last night.   The one mystery I'm running into is the seemingly unique end number decals, a blue block with yellow locomotive numbers in it above the herald on the nose and on the rear cab.  Not in the current Microscale set. 

This is a 1977 shot of 2350, I'm doing 2377, but all the detail looks the same.  An oddball second radio box on the running board.  Strobe on the roof, two air horns, note the radio box with the heat shield.  Look at the number on the nose.  That's got me beat at the moment.

https://www.railpictures.net/photo/348703/

There's oddball individual touches on these, there was no consistency on whether or not the jacking pads below the frame got yellow or blue.  And on most there were ACI labels on the tank.   And the smoke effects on the silver-looking stack are fun, I used aluminum anyway.

The paint gets pretty beat up when I put the brass handrails on, so I don't sweat paint until final touchup.  But the hood work has to be done before that.

I did end Alco handrails in soldered brass for the MRS1, this is the same pattern.

[Cajonpassfan]

From photos, I couldn't entirely tell if it was a tight oval or completely rectangular.

I took a piece of K&S thin wall aluminum tubing, put a piece of .020 styrene in it as a hold spacer, and crushed it absolutely flat in a vise.   Pulled out the styrene.  Surprisingly good.

I then drilled down into the metal shell .020 on both ends.   I had a broken .020 drill already, snapped that remainer in half, and used that as the mounting pins (drill shank bits) to hold the new metal stack in place on the metal shell.   ACC'd the entire mess after I'd filed off the original stack.

THEN I found out it really was rectangular.   Well, OK.   I hit the fore and aft edges with the dremel abrasive disk to get them flat instead of rounded.

That's worked, and it is really solid, not going to knock that off, and it's hollow, not solid, if you actually care.

The radio box is another story.  Oh, and then the canvas cab sunshades.....

Thanks for the explanation, Randy, it's looking really good. And from what I can tell, not all the stacks were identical; at least two if not three versions depending on where they were fabricated I guess....
Love what you're doing to this one,
Otto

[turbowhiz]

Not sure if you've stumbled on this pic of 2377.... Answers the ACI plate location/jacking post color at least for 1974.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ronald_e_estes_photography/53778751712/in/photostream/

Now about those 1015's.... They're really bringing the whole thing down! 




Just razzin! Fantastic work, they are a great model and you're totally taking it to the next level!

[randgust]

I even looked at putting the Z couplers on it as those actually delay pretty well.

This is a true working switcher in my yard though, not a display model.  And I get funny looks when I get any visiting operators looking for coupler picks.  "I don't own any".   

I've got one of the truly rare Kadee N scale electromagnets right at my yard throat, and it works exactly as advertised.  What the little mini magnets won't kick apart, that one will.  Man, that thing is powerful.  If you've never seen one before (and very few have) it's pretty impressive.  But man oh man, is it difficult to install.   Mine is now a good 40+ years old and on its second layout.   Kadee hasn't made them for years.
Link:  https://www.trainz.com/cdn/shop/products/3456634.jpg?v=1614785181&width=493

I've got a similar angle shot of 2377, that one is later.  I have yet to find any shots of any switcher working Winslow yard, by 1974 it was a road switcher in the shots I was sent.   But when I really zoomed in on that one, WTF, look at the end number on the nose.  Most were a 'reverse number' of a blue rectangular field with yellow digits, that is some kind of a raised number (blue) on yellow.   Well, that's a surprise.   I was just ready to decal that and, yeah, it's wrong.

All the shots of S2's I've seen have lots and lots of canvas cab awnings on them.  I've done that before, but it's pretty tedious.

I look at plastic handrails and have the same reaction... Wow, those look chunky!

[bbussey]

I even looked at putting the Z couplers on it as those actually delay pretty well.

This is a true working switcher in my yard though, not a display model.  And I get funny looks when I get any visiting operators looking for coupler picks.  "I don't own any".   

I've got one of the truly rare Kadee N scale electromagnets right at my yard throat, and it works exactly as advertised.  What the little mini magnets won't kick apart, that one will.  Man, that thing is powerful.  If you've never seen one before (and very few have) it's pretty impressive.  But man oh man, is it difficult to install.   Mine is now a good 40+ years old and on its second layout.   Kadee hasn't made them for years.
Link:  https://www.trainz.com/cdn/shop/products/3456634.jpg?v=1614785181&width=493

I've got a similar angle shot of 2377, that one is later.  I have yet to find any shots of any switcher working Winslow yard, by 1974 it was a road switcher in the shots I was sent.   But when I really zoomed in on that one, WTF, look at the end number on the nose.  Most were a 'reverse number' of a blue rectangular field with yellow digits, that is some kind of a raised number (blue) on yellow.   Well, that's a surprise.   I was just ready to decal that and, yeah, it's wrong.

All the shots of S2's I've seen have lots and lots of canvas cab awnings on them.  I've done that before, but it's pretty tedious.

I look at plastic handrails and have the same reaction... Wow, those look chunky!

I use neodymium magnets mounted either underneath the track or adjacent to the track. They work exceptionally well. Don’t run steel wheels though, or use steel weights in cars! 

[randgust]

OK, to me, this is the toughest part and I'm glad its over.

A master modeler by the name of Tom Hoover from Erie, PA, now deceased, taught me and my friend how to do this - soldered brass handrails on any existing unit.  He'd done it on Rapido and Trix units, that many years ago, and it was just stunning.

Now with better plastic casting, it's not as stunning.   But its still my standard.  The stock rails were SO soft, and you couldn't get them off for treating them with adhesion promoter, after a while it's, oh heck, off they come.  My brass wire takes a beating and holds paint.

They are ACC'd and soldered together one element at a time, on the shell.



Link:  http://www.randgust.com/Alco237706.jpg



Link:  http://www.randgust.com/Alco237707.jpg

Lot more work to do.  Another paint touchup, and paint the rails.  One of the things that makes it tough is that I've got to get it dullcoted, get the cab glass in, before I can drill and fit the cab awnings as they are supported on wire.

[peteski]

A master modeler by the name of Tom Hoover from Erie, PA, now deceased, taught me and my friend how to do this - soldered brass handrails on any existing unit.  He'd done it on Rapido and Trix units, that many years ago, and it was just stunning.

Tom? That's a blast from the past! He was a member of the Northeast NTRAK club but moved away shortly before I joined.  Some of the older club members remember him fondly. Super nice guy and as you mentioned, a master modeler.

He was also a highly regarded mechanical engineer, and the father of the Chrysler Hemi engine. There is even a Wikipedia article about him.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tom_Hoover_%28engineer%29
And a Car & Driver Magazine article.
https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a15355496/tom-hoover-the-father-of-the-hemi-passes-away-at-85/

[randgust]

One of the "several other companies" that Tom worked for was GE Locomotive at Erie, that's when I met him, I'll guess about 1978 or 9.

He had a massive module - I think it was Ntrak - of a UP locomotive servicing yard, and it not only had every locomotive with wire handrails, it had mirrors to double everything.   I was just stunned.  I'd never seen superdetailed N locomotives before.  That was a turning point for me.

And at some point, he built another landmark module of the Barstow, CA locomotive shop.  I saw it at Altoona, I think he willed it to a group, it's still out there somewhere.  Here it is:

http://www.pbase.com/atsf_arizona/image/137617277.jpg

I loved that module not just because I am a Santa Fe fan, but that it violated every "normal" module design rule of Ntrak.  Another lesson.

[nickelplate759]

I remember Tom as well. Still an inspiration!

[peteski]

I loved that module not just because I am a Santa Fe fan, but that it violated every "normal" module design rule of Ntrak.  Another lesson.

What is that "normal" module design rule you speak of?  Just a POFF?  As long as the 3-tracks are there and its length is to specs, I would think that anything goes. The more interesting the better.  Back when Tom was part of the NE-NTRAK. there were other interesting modules. Like Jim Whitehead's junction module where there was a wye with one leg extending to the inside of the layout (sort of like Tom's), but on the same level as the NTRAK tracks.
But we are getting way OT here. 

[atsf_arizona]

One of the "several other companies" that Tom worked for was GE Locomotive at Erie, that's when I met him, I'll guess about 1978 or 9.

He had a massive module - I think it was Ntrak - of a UP locomotive servicing yard, and it not only had every locomotive with wire handrails, it had mirrors to double everything.   I was just stunned.  I'd never seen superdetailed N locomotives before.  That was a turning point for me.

And at some point, he built another landmark module of the Barstow, CA locomotive shop.  I saw it at Altoona, I think he willed it to a group, it's still out there somewhere.  Here it is:



I loved that module not just because I am a Santa Fe fan, but that it violated every "normal" module design rule of Ntrak.  Another lesson.

I remember taking that photo when I was able to drop in on that Altoona N Scale Weekend 2011 weekend show (has it *really* been that long?!), and that module was stunning.  Especially the imaginative design - the mirror backdrop to visually double the size of the shop w/o doubling the module depth...... elevating the shop so that the ladder tracks don't interfere with the NTRAK 3 main lines..... great engineering mind.  No wonder he could also be the lead designer of the vaunted Chrysler 426 Hemi engine.   Nice to know that it was Tom Hoover who built this module.

There's a few more shots of that module, in this PBase ATSF_Arizona album:  https://pbase.com/atsf_arizona/n_scale_wkend_2011&page=2

Now, back on topic...... Randgust, your Alco S-2 is looking great.

[randgust]

I think like everything else, Tom didn't let conventional approaches limit him.

And that was reflected in the handrail procedure.   In his method, you do all the basic painting of a shell first, because those handrails are never coming off and you can't really work behind them.

Then, do the long HORIZONTAL runs, possibly copying old plastic rails, bend with tweezers, secure with ACC, drill a hole and make an "L" at each end.

Then, ONE AT A TIME, starting from the middle, and dividing in half, add stanchions - far too long, don't cut them to exact length. Drill into the sill 90 degrees.  Bend bottom of wire to L shape.  Secure at bottom with ACC,  Use that extra length to maneuver them straight.   Solder with rosin core to the horizontal rail, come up from underneath, in front with solder, with the iron to the back.   Pull away so that any excess solder is drawn UP and away from the horizontal.   Check repeatedly for straightness, reheat and reposition if necessary.

Rough trim with rail nippers or similar, don't work about neatness.  Worry about a good joint and straight.

Repeat down the row, dividing each area in half with a stanchion until finished.

THEN, put an abrasive disk in a dremel, medium-high speed.  Eye protection.  Using the edge of the disk, come in at a 45-degree angle from the top, grinding the excess stanchion wire and solder flush with the top rail.    If you break one loose, resolder.

It takes practice, but you get truly solid, scale-sized rails that hold paint, will take a beating and if bent, can be bent right back. 

I have yet to find a plastic handrail I can't imitate and improve.   They are far better today, but when that fine are even more problematic to hold paint.  And with this method, dead straight.  Thanks Tom.

I 'usually' use .010 for handrails, I've done it with .008, but prefer .010.   Depending on what I'm imitating, I may use .010, .015, or .020 for the stanchions.   In my cases, nearly all stanchions are dark colored and the rails are light, so any detail in the stanchions gets lost anyway.

For wire, I'm getting mine from Clover House.