Another Nubie Getting Dragged Kicking and Screaming Into the Fold...

[JMaurer1]

I HATE it when this happens...I've been so good about NOT getting a 3d printer of any type knowing that learning how to use it and the software is something that I get frustrated having to do, BUT someone just gave me one just to make me suffer. It's not much, an AnyCubic Kobra Neo FDM printer, but it was free and like all gateway drugs...I mean printers, it can lead to an addiction. There have been several things that I wanted printed and this should be able to do it (the things I need were designed for FDM...I know that I won't be printing detailed locomotives or freight cars any time soon). A car float, some buildings, etc...

Is there a good place to start...like a primer? Best/easiest programs to use. Heck, I don't even know anything about filament other than it melts...what are the best ones to use? PLA is better than PETG, right? Any help is appreciated here since, while I'm a techie, I quickly loose interest in banging my head against a wall cuz it hurts. Thanks for any assistance you can give to minimize the pain...

[robert3985]

Well...I hate to be a naysayer here, but I don't think that you're gonna be happy with even the best results you get from an FDM printer for N-scale...mainly because the resolution just isn't anywhere close to the precision needed for decent 1:160th scale models.

But, for making things like throttle holders for your fascia, or parts for remote turnout throwing, or cable keepers etc., an FDM printer does a very nice job.

Right now, you can get the very best printer for small N-scale model projects that will give you absolutely fabulous results for 1:160th scale models...the Elegoo Mars 4 DLP ($299) or the Anycubic Photon D2 DLP ($349).

I am recommending the Elegoo Mars 4 DLP at $299 because of its superior build quality over the Anycubic Photon D2 DLP printer.

Of course, you'll need resin, IPA, Nitrile gloves, silicone mats, scrapers, a wash & cure (preferably)...so the total is gonna be more than the price of the printer alone.

For the best use of time and materials, you're gonna have to learn a 3D modeling program anyway, so why not get a printer that will do the best job??...and at a very good price too?

FDM printers for N-scale aren't sufficient for the smallness of the scale, whereas UV Resin Printers are...especially 8k and above or DLP printers.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[AlwaysSolutions]

Sorry you got sucked in.  Buy PLA filament to get started.  It's the easiest material to work with.  I use Hatchbox brand, it's cheap, available, plenty of colors.  Familiarize yourself with free files to get you started, thingiverse.com, printables.com are good starters.  Other sites allow you to purchase more complicated models for a reasonable price.  Before you can print any of those files, you'll need to "slice" them, which basically converts them to printer language (g - code)  Slicer software options are Prusa Slicer and Ultimaker Cura.  Both are good, both are free, both get regular software updates so they are constantly evolving into better products.

Eventually you'll want to create your own models.  Free software options are sketchup, and fusion 360 is free for non-commercial use.  I believe there are more options out there but those two seem to be the most commonly used.

As noted, the FDM printer is not going to print boxcars, people, locomotive shells or any of that.  But, if you think outside of trains you'll find a lot more uses for it.  Household repair items, hooks, clips, mounts, whatever you can think of.  I've done weird things like specialized shower-rod mounts for my curved shower rod, jar-lids with built in magnets for a magnetic spice rack, just to name two recent projects.  In N Scale I printed some bridge parts for a prototype from my childhood on an FDM Anycubic Kobra 2.  I'm pretty ecstatic on how it turned out:
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I've also printed building shells that turned out okay.  Not museum pieces, for sure, but decent and easy to print.

Anyway, this is the most important bit: you're in for a learning curve.  If you aren't interested in tinkering with settings and dealing with failures then I'll tell you right now you're not going to like 3D printing.  If you find it to be fun, I promise you're going to eventually buy a resin printer so you can expand your possibilities.  There is just something amazing about taking an idea and creating it in the real world from these machines.  And when you get good with the modelling software you get to create exactly what you want for your pike.

YouTube will be your best friend in learning the ropes.  Lots of good videos out there.

Cheers -Mike

[dem34]

Second @AlwaysSolutions points.

But all that said there are in fact ways of squeezing a bit more out of an FDM for N scale and even smaller scales. It just can be debated that its an even steeper learning curve than just using a Resin Printer. But I just hate the process of Resin Printing. Biggest ones are two fold. Matching the detail dimensions to nozzle width and printing flat.



This minimizes the amount of times the nozzle is running over lines to get to a specific dimension cleaning up the result a fair bit. But of course does require creating your own models since most you'll find online expect the use of a Resin Printer which will not account for this. Printing flat allows (on top of minimizing the need for supports and chances of failure.) means you can use a nifty feature called Ironing. Where the nozzle slowly runs over all the top faces of the model, very slowly eeking out filament as it goes to fill in Filament lines. Results mean you essentially need to put a magnifying glass to the resulting models to see anything resembling telltale FDM artifacts.


And that Spiel out of the way. If you are content with just having stuff in the background and not super worried on close photography. I was shown the results of some Buildings printed on a Bambu Lab X1S by a new club member. Layer lines a little visible, but the models were printed in their own color, a shot of Dullcote is all thats need to plop them onto a Layout or Module.

[JMaurer1]

I know that I'm not going to be printing freight cars with PLA, but for the price (free), I figured if it doesn't end up being something I can use, I'm still ahead of the game. Currently I'm planning on printing buildings, a barge and slip, and other scenery. I just hate the steep learning curve that comes with 3D software, but there are already enough free files out there that I will be kept busy printing for awhile. Thanks for those offering support...maybe a resin printer will be in my future, but one must get their toes wet before they jump into the deep end of the pool...

[dem34]

I know that I'm not going to be printing freight cars with PLA, but for the price (free), I figured if it doesn't end up being something I can use, I'm still ahead of the game. Currently I'm planning on printing buildings, a barge and slip, and other scenery. I just hate the steep learning curve that comes with 3D software, but there are already enough free files out there that I will be kept busy printing for awhile. Thanks for those offering support...maybe a resin printer will be in my future, but one must get their toes wet before they jump into the deep end of the pool...

My other thing, If its a big model you can move around without damaging too badly.

Automotive filler primer can fill in a lot of the layer lines as well, you just need to clean up creases nooks afterwards with some sanding and make sure not to spray too much on in a layer.

[samusi01]

My most recent projects on this type of printer have been bridge piers and assembly jigs for trestle bents. Designing stuff… there are lots of threads here about this topic already, and the only thing I’ve to add is, depending on the scale of whatever project you embark on, it can be a considerable drain on modeling time…

[Chris333]

If I had a dollar for every time someone asked me about a FDM printer... I've never used one or even held something printed by one. Never wanted one. But hey I've seen a few things printed with them that look good.

[JMaurer1]

So I've been playing with my new printer for a week now and am loving printing out some of the things (mostly buildings...and a car float), BUT I have found a bunch of the more detailed files (who knew) that I would like to print...SOOOOOOOO, I'm now looking at getting a resin printer and I'm looking for recommendations. I would like to keep it on the cheaper side ($300 or less for everything including a curing station...is that possible?). Should I wait for the DLP printers to (maybe) come down in price or just wait because they are better? I love steep learning curves but I know this was a rabbit hole that I would be spending too much time in.

[Chris333]

You can get a resin printer for $150 and get started.

[C855B]

I have and recommend this DLP close to your price point: https://www.anycubic.com/products/photon-d2-dlp-3d-printer .

Main gotcha, though, is I strongly recommend a wash/cure station, another $90. Reduces the handling of uncured objects, and much faster than manual workarounds.

This bridge was output directly on the build plate without supports:

[robert3985]

Although both the Elegoo Mars 4 DLP and the Anycubic D2 DLP printers are excellent, making prints about as good as you're gonna get, the Elegoo comes it at $299.99 and the Anycubic at $249.00.

Although both are going to print at the same quality, the Elegoo Mars 4 DLP is the better-built machine...noticeably...and 50 bucks cheaper too.

If you want the same quality, but will be happy with an MSLA (non-DLP) printer, the Elegoo Mars 4 9k comes in at $259.00 with the smallest pixels available at 18microns...and it will print at least as well as either aforementioned DLP printers, but without their advantages of long innards life since they don't have short-lived LCD's.

There's a better-built 9k 18micron machine from Elegoo that's $59 bucks more and has up-scale features, some of which are important to my way of thinking...wifi, on-board 4G RAM, stronger leveling system, etc...the Elegoo Mars Ultra 9k for $309.00.  Print quality's the same as the cheaper Elegoo Mars 4 9k.

Both Elegoo Mars 4 MSLA printers have slightly larger print volume than either DLP machines too.

A basic, small Wash & Cure from either Elegoo or Anycubic will set you back a few dollars more than $100, and I highly recommend having one, with an extra bucket.

You'll need some good resin to start with too, and I highly recommend Anycubic ABS-Like Resin Pro 2, which has excellent detail capability, and durability (flexibility/non-brittle), and long shelf life.

Bite the bullet, spend 50 to 100 bucks more, get what you need and will be happy with...and then have fun!

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[JMaurer1]

Curse you, Bob Gilmore! I went to Amazon...just to see how much it was going to cost, and they were having a flash deal on the ELEGOO Mars 4 9k Resin 3D Printer for $189...AND the ANYCUBIC ABS-Like Resin Pro 2 for $22.99 so they practically FORCED me to buy them (no flash deals on the curing station...yet). I will be holding you responsible for all future 3d printer incidents...

[JMaurer1]

Okay, now I have it, what else should I have in stock? I know gloves and funnels and filters and scrapers...should I have spare plates/plastic? Also, the learning curve was much easier for the FDM printer. I'm kind of hesitant in taking it for a ride. I know I first need to zero the build plate then start doing test prints to get the times correct. Anything else that I need to know (other than learning the 3d software...which I already am developing a love/hate relationship with)? Recommendations of web sites/youtube to spend time learning stuff from? Any help is appreciated as we venture down another rabbit hole...what's up doc?

[Lemosteam]

First and foremost- find a screen protector that covers the screen and the deck of the machine.  You will have to re-level.  Inadvertent leaks of resin WILL ruin your screen.  I am a klutz with anything liquid and this has been a lifesaver after my first screen replacement.  Pinholes in FEP can also be a culprit.

Buy a pack of single edge razor blades.  a lay them flat on the build plate and push them under parts to pop them off.

Buy a paper towel holder and a bunch of rolls.

Boxes of tissues for finer cleaning of the screen and fep, etc.

99% IPA, and

Find and old used toothbrush or a sonic toothbrush (ipa only) for scrubbing.

I also use an ultrasonic cleaner with the IPA and sometimes the Acetone.

IMHO, I only use my "wash and cure" for curing.  I have three dunk & scrub baths I like to use, they are silicone sealed plastic food containers with snap clamps.  Bath 1 is "used 99% alcohol.  Bath 2 is fresher 99% alcohol.  (when bath 2 is too filthy, I strain it into a saved IPA bottle, and let it self cure with the lid off. Bath 2 replaces the IPA in bath 1).  Bath 3 is a smaller version that I use for a very quick brushing and dip bath in Acetone- no longer than 30-40 seconds per part.  The Acetone helps to remove resin that has seeped into crevices like mortar joints, etc.  Sometimes I then brush under cold water and chemical free dish soap (palmolive clear}.

Buy an inexpensive set of long tip flush cutters. I use that to carefully remove supports for curing and discard.

THEN its off to curing the parts.