Author Topic: Dirty Filthy Basement Activty  (Read 1538 times)

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thomasjmdavis

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Re: Dirty Filthy Basement Activty
« Reply #15 on: October 31, 2023, 08:16:36 PM »
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@thomasjmdavis   That is a self contained airbrush . It has a USB port to charge the battery that is in the red cylinder that contains the air pump.
Thanks Mike.  Thought it might be something like that, but I've never seen one in airbrush size.  What is the PSI output on one of those?  Is it variable? or perhaps HVLP (if that is even possible in airbrush sizes)?

@basementcalling - Just curious- have you used this paint mixture (with the Liquitex matte) in this airbrush before?  Did you strain the mix? My experience with Liquitex (paints, clears, etc) is that it is more viscous than the average model paint, and in the case of matte or flat can be a little "lumpy", especially if the jar or tube has been sitting on the dealer's shelf (or yours) for a while.  None of which would explain why the airbrush won't spray alcohol or water,

Is the needle sticky when you try to activate the airbrush?
Tom D.

I have a mind like a steel trap...a VERY rusty, old steel trap.

peteski

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Re: Dirty Filthy Basement Activty
« Reply #16 on: October 31, 2023, 08:34:42 PM »
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Thanks Mike.  Thought it might be something like that, but I've never seen one in airbrush size.  What is the PSI output on one of those?  Is it variable? or perhaps HVLP (if that is even possible in airbrush sizes)?

We have discussed this type of airbrush here in the past.  These are inexpensive tools, not sure if they even provide any specs with them.  See https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=51869.0
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basementcalling

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Re: Dirty Filthy Basement Activty
« Reply #17 on: November 01, 2023, 10:42:38 AM »
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Thanks Mike.  Thought it might be something like that, but I've never seen one in airbrush size.  What is the PSI output on one of those?  Is it variable? or perhaps HVLP (if that is even possible in airbrush sizes)?

@basementcalling - Just curious- have you used this paint mixture (with the Liquitex matte) in this airbrush before?  Did you strain the mix? My experience with Liquitex (paints, clears, etc) is that it is more viscous than the average model paint, and in the case of matte or flat can be a little "lumpy", especially if the jar or tube has been sitting on the dealer's shelf (or yours) for a while.  None of which would explain why the airbrush won't spray alcohol or water,

Is the needle sticky when you try to activate the airbrush?

Thomas, this was the first mix of the fading solution with the Matt varnish. I thought about that after the problem popped up. It was a brand new bottle of it, shaken and stirred, vigorously to get a good mix before pipetting it into the red 20 CC paint cup. I added water too in order to be sure everything was skim milk consistency, but I did not filter the Liquitex first as @peteski suggested.

Peter Pfotenhauer

basementcalling

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Re: Dirty Filthy Basement Activty
« Reply #18 on: November 01, 2023, 10:48:01 AM »
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We have discussed this type of airbrush here in the past.  These are inexpensive tools, not sure if they even provide any specs with them.  See https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=51869.0

Peteski, this one comes with a pretty detailed manual. When I am back in the basement I'll take a looksee.

Off the top of my head, it is a double action brush - somewhat. PSI runs about 15-20 I estimate, certainly not any stronger than that. Up until using the Liquitex, I've been happy with how it worked for my purposes. I wasn't expecting it to let me do fine detail work, I have a Paache and Aztek for that, except both are in storage awaiting completion of house repairs after my neighbor's fire gutted their place and has left me displaced for 23 months now.

I'm just trying to keep my feet wet after losing the basement empire without buying duplicate devices or tools. All my paints were going to have to be replaced anyway thanks to exposure to extreme temperatures, both hot and cold.
Peter Pfotenhauer

peteski

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Re: Dirty Filthy Basement Activty
« Reply #19 on: November 01, 2023, 05:15:18 PM »
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To set the record straight, it wasn't me recommending to strain the paint - it was Tom (but I wholeheartedly agree).

I still only shoot stinky paints through my airbrush (well except the Tamiya acrylics, but those aren't  true water-based acrylic enamels anyway), but I have read on the forums about problems with those water-based acrylics clogging up airbrushes.  Seems that you ran into one yourself.

I still think that if you can fully disassemble the airbrush to access all of the paint passages, you should be able to take care of the problem.  Just follow the path of where the paint travels inside the airbrush (inclusing the nozzle) and make sure the passages are wide open. I wouldn't think that are any hidden passages in there.
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basementcalling

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Re: Dirty Filthy Basement Activty
« Reply #20 on: November 15, 2023, 10:54:29 PM »
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More adventures in the mud and grime. Finally got a fade job that came out solid. I went with less zinc white and more thinner and more passes. Any more and this would have started to speckle. Now it's set to grime up a bit.



This CP hopper - old BLW by Intermountain - was an experiment/ I'd already lightly weathered the roofwalk with multiple washes in various rust and grime. I've been struggling to get panel seam lines to come out thin enough to like, so on this model to get some streaks I simply masked off the side with small strip post it notes that didn't quite touch. Didn't cut to size, just lined em up on the roof walk brackets. I creased them with my fingernail above the bottom of the car side, then taped them all together below that so the breeze from the airbrush wouldn't lift them. I did do a bit of cleanup with a damp Q-tip on a couple, but I like the look. Not planning to make this a rust bucket, so not much else left to do.



White cars are fun. Using a proto photo for this Atlas DOWX tanker. Less is definitely more. Standard rust streaks technique with a thin brush, plus a couple spots using a Micron .005 dia tip marker set, whisked down with a flat brush. I misted it lightly from overhead with Vallejo light rust was thinned 10-1 with airbrush thinner.



And a rust bucket ABOX Railbox from Atlas. I did some ghost lettering, but mostly concentrated on lots of rust and grime in logical places.





Feedback welcome as always.
Peter Pfotenhauer

lock4244

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Re: Dirty Filthy Basement Activty
« Reply #21 on: November 17, 2023, 12:01:48 AM »
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This CP hopper - old BLW by Intermountain - was an experiment/ I'd already lightly weathered the roofwalk with multiple washes in various rust and grime. I've been struggling to get panel seam lines to come out thin enough to like, so on this model to get some streaks I simply masked off the side with small strip post it notes that didn't quite touch. Didn't cut to size, just lined em up on the roof walk brackets. I creased them with my fingernail above the bottom of the car side, then taped them all together below that so the breeze from the airbrush wouldn't lift them. I did do a bit of cleanup with a damp Q-tip on a couple, but I like the look. Not planning to make this a rust bucket, so not much else left to do.



This came out quite nice.