Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra

[Chris333]

I bought one and it has been sitting for 2 weeks without even plugging it in    been working ~63 hours a week 

So I want to set it up and try to print something. The online spot I checked says 11 seconds exposure for regular layers. (for Anycubic black resin) That seems very high to me.

Anyone else have this printer with settings to share?

[Erock482]

I agree that seems very high.

I have the Saturn Ultra 3, like every printer coming out lately were in the mono screens which have much better times than the RBG screens of old.

I'd use the same settings you have been using on your phrozen units.

I'm using phrozen Aqua Gray 8K at .25u layers with 1.8s layer times with excellent results. on my mono x that setting works well with .50u layers. on the mono x I used 1.4s for anycubic resin for a frame of refernce.

[Chris333]

I ran the first print at 3.5 seconds and it came out fine. It was the cones of calibration and I haven't scraped it off yet to look at it so the number may go up or down. But it is not 11 seconds.

[Sokramiketes]

Setting print speed aside, is there anything wrong with longer layer cure times? 

Say the newer machines are able to keep the light more linear... (The flip side being the old machines, and RGB screens, etc, would bloom because of light scatter... so you tried to keep the layer cure time down)

And say you benefit if the resin in each layer was cured further and didn't curl or warp in post cure as much...

I wouldn't write off the new 11sec suggestion. 

[Chris333]

Setting print speed aside, is there anything wrong with longer layer cure times? 

Say the newer machines are able to keep the light more linear... (The flip side being the old machines, and RGB screens, etc, would bloom because of light scatter... so you tried to keep the layer cure time down)

And say you benefit if the resin in each layer was cured further and didn't curl or warp in post cure as much...

I wouldn't write off the new 11sec suggestion.

lol someone just e-mailed me the same idea. He said instead of looking for the minimum we should be looking for the maximum (without losing detail) to keep warping down. Me, I'm not worried about "speed" at all as long as the prints come out.

My cone test did come out with only one cone broken in the center on the failure side:

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So I guess that means I have (way?) too much exposure.

But I will leave it and print a regular model to see what happens.