'Bending' decal stripes

[thomasjmdavis]

I have a couple projects I am working on that require thin stripes (2" wide in N scale, according to Microscale's label) in yellow .  The difficulty is that the prototype saw fit to curve their stripes at the nose of the locomotive.  The particular ones I am doing (EJ&E separator stripes) are a curve with about a 1.25" radius. Is there a recommended technique (or chemistry) to get the decals to accept a curve and lay down flat? 

I've tried "trial and error" and gotten close- but after a lot of poking and prodding to get the decal into place, the decals either come apart, or I get poor adhesion and they pull away when they dry.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

[Sokramiketes]

@skytop35 did the decal bending magic on a C&NW streamlined steam engine one time, but it was probably 1" stripes. 

Somethings I'd consider:

1) cut right to the stripe, and remove any extra carrier film that would be trying to keep the decal straight.
2) Use a softer solution, like Microset, instead of Solvaset, so it softens but doesn't turn to goo.
3) Pick and prod and guide and move, and see what happens?

[thomasjmdavis]

Thanks for the response and suggestions, Mike,

You have confirmed my fear that what is required is skill, patience, a steady hand and good eyesight. Lacking those, I guess I will have to make do with multiple attempts, 10x magnification, and bourbon to steady the nerves.

[peteski]

Thanks for the response and suggestions, Mike,

You have confirmed my fear that what is required is skill, patience, a steady hand and good eyesight. Lacking those, I guess I will have to make do with multiple attempts, 10x magnification, and bourbon to steady the nerves.

I thought that bourbon would mess up your fine hand-eye coordination, and muscle control.   

[learmoia]

I have a couple projects I am working on that require thin stripes (2" wide in N scale, according to Microscale's label) in yellow .  The difficulty is that the prototype saw fit to curve their stripes at the nose of the locomotive.  The particular ones I am doing (EJ&E separator stripes) are a curve with about a 1.25" radius. Is there a recommended technique (or chemistry) to get the decals to accept a curve and lay down flat? 

I've tried "trial and error" and gotten close- but after a lot of poking and prodding to get the decal into place, the decals either come apart, or I get poor adhesion and they pull away when they dry.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Also skim through decal sets for Cowl units that might have closely matching nose stripes..
Same Tactic but it's a lot easier to slightly bend a curved stripe vs harshly bend a straight stripe.

~Ian

[MK]

I thought that bourbon would mess up your fine hand-eye coordination, and muscle control.   

It does, but you'll be happy and content about it. 

[skytop35]

@skytop35 did the decal bending magic on a C&NW streamlined steam engine one time, but it was probably 1" stripes. 

Somethings I'd consider:

1) cut right to the stripe, and remove any extra carrier film that would be trying to keep the decal straight.
2) Use a softer solution, like Microset, instead of Solvaset, so it softens but doesn't turn to goo.
3) Pick and prod and guide and move, and see what happens?

What Mike said. Here is the steam engine I decaled with "straight" decal stripes. Patience is your friend.

[thomasjmdavis]

Impressive work there, Bill. 

I will take a look for similar cowl unit stripes, but if those are not out there, I now know it can be done.

Is the CNW loco brass, a heavily reworked Con-Cor streamlined Hudson, or did you just make that out of stuff lying around on the workbench?  One of my other "if I ever have the time and the money" projects would be to do a GTW U4b.

[skytop35]

Impressive work there, Bill. 

I will take a look for similar cowl unit stripes, but if those are not out there, I now know it can be done.

Is the CNW loco brass, a heavily reworked Con-Cor streamlined Hudson, or did you just make that out of stuff lying around on the workbench?  One of my other "if I ever have the time and the money" projects would be to do a GTW U4b.

Thanks but I can't take credit for building this magnificent beast. It was built by Phil Valenzo but he decided to leave N scale. He gave it to me since according to him "I know you can finish it". I hesitated for several years but I finally painted and decaled it. At the time I didn't really have a need for it so I sold it and split the money with Phil (about $500 if I recall correctly). I've sold a lot of models over the years and this is the only one I regret selling. In any case, here is what it looked like when I received it. It was built from a Con-Cor Hudson. Obviously Phil is a very talented modeler!