The B&O Delaware Avenue Branch

[wazzou]

I’d look into rastered board from a laser cutter.

https://www.larkspurlaserart.com/mixed-cut-stone-interlocking-sheets

[TrainCat2]

Those roller look great! I will get them and give it a try. I also found Noch N Cobblestone plastic sheet and bought a few to try. I am thinking on making silicone molds from it and casting different type of mixes. The tracks are straight down the middle of the street so in theory I should be able to make them for the outer rail sides. For between the rails, Since I will be doing Fast Tracks, I should be able to make masters for each section and cast those as well. I figure out the other parts. I will explore as many options as I can for this.

Dave, I was able to get the MR mags as well as the Kalmbach book so I'll have some reading. Ed, I walk through memory lane of your old thread later this week.

Moving on with the design, most of today was spent cataloging the different building kits available and getting their footprints into CADRail. Most I will be kitbashing and several have already arrived. With these I am beginning to place them so I can continue with the track design. Here is the extent so far.



On the left I placed the Municipal Storage Yard but I may remove 2 of the tracks at the back and inset some flats to continue with the industrial scene. The Publicker Alcohol facility will be kitbashed buildings, both N and WO storage tanks, two fractor columns from North Island kits and room for a 12 car tankcar loading section.



On the right, I have figured out the Baileys and both Merchants Warehouses. The Baileys had on-street loading so just a spur. The Merchants had boxcars rolled right into the interior loading docks. I will have to wait for these kits to arrive to get the spacing correct..



As soon as I hardcode what kit(s) I will build Gallaghers Warehouse with, I can do it and the open unloading lot next to it.

If anyone has any images of the B&O Stockyards and the Perishable Products Terminal, that would be a huge help. I have found a single pic of the stockyard taking of a corner with the utility meters.

[TrainCat2]

Question for the foam base experts: The foam base over module frames; 2in or 1in thick? If 2in is the recommended, is it OK to glue two layers of 1in together?  I ask this as 2in is not readily available in SouFla, but 1in is off the shelf in Lowes. Forget about HD!

Also, since this is going to be a flat and everything on the same level, is it OK to purchase a 30ft roll of 1/8 cork and just bond it to the foam and lay the track directly on the rolled cork? Would foam safe contact cement be the best way to adhere a 30 x 96 sheet of cork to the foam?

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Question for the foam base experts: The foam base over module frames; 2in or 1in thick? If 2in is the recommended, is it OK to glue two layers of 1in together?  I ask this as 2in is not readily available in SouFla, but 1in is off the shelf in Lowes. Forget about HD!

Also, since this is going to be a flat and everything on the same level, is it OK to purchase a 30ft roll of 1/8 cork and just bond it to the foam and lay the track directly on the rolled cork? Would foam safe contact cement be the best way to adhere a 30 x 96 sheet of cork to the foam?

Depends on your support. The urban part of my current layout is all 1/2"! But that's because it's supported by plywood.
If you don't need the vertical relief, just go with 1" as long as you have enough support under it. I think I got away with 2x4 on the last layout but I wouldn't recommend that. ~2'x2' boxes (18"x18", etc...) would be best.

That said, I also almost ALWAYS recommend going with two layers of 1" over 2" for almost all applications when you need to form it. This is because cutting shallow angles through 1" is FAR easier than 2".

The only situation where I wouldn't recommend it is when you need the rigidity. I THINK 2" is more rigid than two pieces of 1" glued together, but have no evidence to back that up. On the other hand, if you go with the laminated approach you can shift the gaps and make it seamless. Hmm.

Anyway, as long as you have sufficient support you should probably be fine either way.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

As for adhesive, I always use Liquid Nails for Projects.

That said, Dave at Thunder Mesa has a Loktite that he likes. His work is top shelf so I trust him.

https://thundermesa.studio/

https://thundermesa.studio/2022/08/foam-rock-scenery-for-gruesome-gulch-ggrr-part-5/

[wazzou]

I've found when laminating the foam, it's always best to lightly sand the surfaces to be joined, just to rough them up a bit.
The foam has a bit of glossy or smooth, slippery finish as purchased and sometimes the Liquid Nails or whatever adhesive you choose, doesn't cure as well or as quickly on the like new surfaces.

[davefoxx]

I use Loktite Power Grab, and it works great to glue foam-to-foam and wood-to-foam.  I used 1/4” lauan plywood under my foam substrate to ensure the foam didn’t sag, and it gives you something to screw undermount switch machines to.

I use 2” foam, but see no problem with laminating 1” foam, if that’s what you can get.  I definitely would want plywood under the 1” foam, though.

DFF

[John]

I have a small section of the current layout where the 1" foam sits right on top of the frame, with only cross bracing .. cork laid on top .. whenever the train runs over it - the setup acts like a speaker box and amplifies the rumble of the train .. I don't mind it - but it could be annoying .. I would put a 1/8 inch layer of ply down and then the foam on top of that

[davefoxx]

I have a small section of the current layout where the 1" foam sits right on top of the frame, with only cross bracing .. cork laid on top .. whenever the train runs over it - the setup acts like a speaker box and amplifies the rumble of the train .. I don't mind it - but it could be annoying .. I would put a 1/8 inch layer of ply down and then the foam on top of that

I can confirm that my trains are much quieter on the layout where foam is on top of 1/4” plywood.  On my A&R shelf portion, it is foam on benchwork, and it is louder.  That said, as I add scenic landforms and scenic materials it is getting quieter.  I have also considered gluing pads of something to the underside of the foam to damper the sound.

Hope this helps,
DFF

[wm3798]

When finishing your street running, you might save a bit of time by "patching" in some concrete is some sections.  The cobbles would have been installed when the line was originally built, and were handy because they could be removed and replaced when a repair needed to be made to the track.  Later on, patches might have been quicker and cheaper with a bit of concrete.  Creating a smooth bit out of styrene and weathering it around a tricky turnout location might be a time saver, just a thought.
Lee

[TrainCat2]

Slowly the plan is evolving. With the plans for the Liberty Ship arriving, I was able to get the outline so I could add them to the plan for a better understanding of what my vision is. I did scrap the idea of putting industrial flats in the rear right corner and I will put a full width Liberty Ship or maybe just one cut in half. This pic show all the new trackage that has been added as well as a new definition of the module dims so I would not be concerned of any switches at a module juction.



The left rear module is getting better defined as I get more building kits in and have planned the kitbashed sizes. I also added the open lot scene I loved so much between Gallagher's Warehouse (left) and the Pennsylvania Warehouse (right). The left side of layout will contain Bailey's Warehouse and the Merchants Warehouse.



Right rear module with the ship (full or half) to block looking directly at a blank backdrop.



The left module where the staging yard, arrival/departure tracks and classification tracks will be.

[samusi01]

Bob,

Would a T-2 or similar tanker also work in that upper right corner in lieu of the liberty hull?

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Also, you know you don't have to settle for "blank backdrops". You know a guy with a large format printer...

[amato1969]

Good thought @Ed Kapuscinski , there are lots of other ships to be built here!

  Frank

[keeper]

In regard to ship models, Peter Nolan's website might be worth checking:

https://nscaleships.com/

I think he is/was a member here on TRW.

Thomas