Milwaukee Deer Lodge electric switcher build

[mmagliaro]

I am totally digging the fine wire with the .018" stainless tubing on the tips.  Things like this MAKE the model.

[Jim Starbuck]

I am totally digging the fine wire with the .018" stainless tubing on the tips.  Things like this MAKE the model.

Thanks Max,
This detail was printed on the bottom edge of the shell but it wasn’t rendered very well so I sanded it off and added the free standing version to help fill the extra gap caused by the shim. I basically just winged it with materials that were on hand which describes much of my modeling.

Jim

[Chris333]

Do drawings of this "thing" exist?

[sd45elect2000]

Do drawings of this "thing" exist?

The switcher still exists so anyone can make a sketch.

[Jim Starbuck]

Do drawings of this "thing" exist?

I doubt it being that it’s home built. Someone must have measured it though to do the Shapeways file.
The prototype still exists and is on outdoor display in Harlowtown Montana.

[Jim Starbuck]

I think I’m calling it done. Got the lights and final details on.
Somewhere in the process track pickup went sketchy. It still runs but not as good as it did. I’ll have to open it up and see what’s going on but that’s enough for now.
Final weight ended up at 7.86 grams.

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[Chris333]

Maybe try some dielectric grease in the pickup cups.

[peteski]

Maybe try some dielectric grease in the pickup cups.

Dielectric mean "non-conductive" Chris. 

Maybe something in the suspension has shifted so not all 4 wheels are in good contact with the track (like a wobbly 4-legged stool).

[Chris333]

It keeps the air away and keeps the pickups from tarnishing.

[Jim Starbuck]

Maybe something in the suspension has shifted so not all 4 wheels are in good contact with the track (like a wobbly 4-legged stool).

One side of the pickup cups is glued to the side frame and the other side floats. I suspect I either desoldered the powerkeeper when I connected the LEDs or there’s a cold joint to the pickup strip. I ran out of time to mess with it until later. It ran well before so I’m sure it can be cured.

[Cajonpassfan]

These are ready made from Iowa Scaled Engineering called Run-N-Smooth.
It’s a simple two wire connection to the decoder. The blue + common and add a - from the decoder to the other pad on the powerkeeper.

The dimensions are .410” x .365” x .192” thick.

(Attachment Link)

They do just what they say…smooth out the engine. They aren’t a crutch for poor running locomotives or unclean track, however they do make a noticeable difference in small switchers especially with sound. I use ESU decoders exclusively and they play very well together. I have no experience with other makes of decoders though.
This little critter wouldn’t begin to run well without this powerkeeper or on straight DC. What Max, Ron and Chris do with their marvelously intricate gear reductions, I’m forcing motor control electronically through the decoder and powerkeeper.

I finally got around to ordering a couple of the Powerkeepers to try out, but there's no instructions on the package other than positive (red) and negative (black) inputs, see below. Can't find anything on their website, either. @Jim Starbuck notes " blue+ common add a- from the decoder to the other pad", so now I'm really confused: where does one insert this device into the circuit?

To add to my confusion, I'd like to try these with ESU, Tsunami, and P3 decoders.
Thanks for any assistance,
Otto K.

PS: I should have probably posted this inquiry in the DCC section and may yet do so if I don't get responses here.

[Jim Starbuck]

Otto,

If you are using a wired decoder such as an ESU LokSound 58820 or a Lokpilot non sound, the blue wire which is common positive or the U+ pad will go to the Positive input pad on the powerkeeper. (Shown red on their packaging).
A separate ground wire (I usually use black) gets soldered to the GND pad on the decoder. You will need to look the specific pad diagram for your particular decoder to identify its location. That wire then connects to the Negative pad on the powerkeeper.
Some other partially wired Loksound decoders such as the 58741 Kato board have pads identified as U+ which needs a wire connected to the Positive input on the powerkeeper and the GND pad on the decoder needs a wire connecting to the Negative input on the powerkeeper.
I haven’t used the ISE powerkeepers on decoders other that ESU but their connections would be the same common positive (blue wire or U+ pad) and GND pad.
Hope this makes some sense.

Jim

[Cajonpassfan]

Thanks, Jim, much appreciated!
I'll see if I can figure this out without smoking it, or a pricey sound decoder
Thanks, Otto

[Jim Starbuck]

Otto,
Which decoder are you using?

[Cajonpassfan]

First I want to try the ESU in the Atlas S-2 switcher. See my LA Division layout thread...
Thanks, Otto