T-Trak PRR Northeast Corridor Interlocking

[randgust]

I'm curious on your T-trak specs as I've gone off the deep end myself more than once.

So the inner two tracks are the 'standard' tracks and the other two outboard tracks at the same standard T-trak spacing?  Is this a standard-length module - quad?   I think I'm reading your posts right.

I did three tracks on both the West Hickory triple and the Trunkeyville double, but that was because they were supposed to connect and I kept the same track spacing.    On mine, I consider the inner track the main and the second main the siding and ballast them accordingly, but they still fit a standard T-trak configuration.   The third track...well.....that's a yard track.

I like anybody that tests the limits of T-trak.   I have to admit that when Dave Ferrari first saw mine he thought I'd lost it and mine wouldn't work in the  big layout, now he's OK with some of my near-radical departures from 'normal' design.

I'm wondering, out loud, if you can also figure out a way to make the catenary removable off the poles, as the 'look' of the overhead wire is just so much of this scene.   It might not be on the poles all the time, but even for photos it would be killer.  But the magnetic pole bases acknowledging the inevitable whacks is brilliant.

My Jamison module has all those overhead oil pump lines I did from .010 brass wire on .010 hangers.   It's just about as fragile.   I have deliberate breakaways in several spots, and designed the lines to be easily replaced and repaired, who is kidding who on what people can do.

I also have build mine into a full rear skyboard that STAYS on it with scenery/photo backdrop, and removable plywood sides and front for storage and transport - the modules are stackable in the car and can be moved by mere mortals.  A quad can get heavy.   

[apudelek]

I was thinking that my two center tracks, 2 and 3, would be the standard red and yellow T-Trak mains with the outers either being omitted for show running or continued depending on the circumstances to keep up with the same traffic pattern of the Corridor.  I have seen guys do the "joiner flip" under their modules in order to switch from their home DCC setups to BWWB and that is part of the plan.  That would require a different set of joiners spliced in, but that's not a big issue and I'll have them marked accordingly.

With all of the turnouts, I want them to be wired for a fascia control panel and also for DCC either from a throttle or computer screen.  Thinking DPDT momentary switches on the panel with indicator lights connected to a Digitrax DS78 stationary decoder.  There are some more intermediary steps in the wiring that I won't delve into prior to consulting the expert (my father).  I think I will be good with a single decoder for my 5 crossovers and two standard turnouts for a total of 7.

[dem34]

I'm curious on your T-trak specs as I've gone off the deep end myself more than once.

So the inner two tracks are the 'standard' tracks and the other two outboard tracks at the same standard T-trak spacing?  Is this a standard-length module - quad?   I think I'm reading your posts right.

I did three tracks on both the West Hickory triple and the Trunkeyville double, but that was because they were supposed to connect and I kept the same track spacing.    On mine, I consider the inner track the main and the second main the siding and ballast them accordingly, but they still fit a standard T-trak configuration.   The third track...well.....that's a yard track.

I like anybody that tests the limits of T-trak.   I have to admit that when Dave Ferrari first saw mine he thought I'd lost it and mine wouldn't work in the  big layout, now he's OK with some of my near-radical departures from 'normal' design.

I'm wondering, out loud, if you can also figure out a way to make the catenary removable off the poles, as the 'look' of the overhead wire is just so much of this scene.   It might not be on the poles all the time, but even for photos it would be killer.  But the magnetic pole bases acknowledging the inevitable whacks is brilliant.

My Jamison module has all those overhead oil pump lines I did from .010 brass wire on .010 hangers.   It's just about as fragile.   I have deliberate breakaways in several spots, and designed the lines to be easily replaced and repaired, who is kidding who on what people can do.

I also have build mine into a full rear skyboard that STAYS on it with scenery/photo backdrop, and removable plywood sides and front for storage and transport - the modules are stackable in the car and can be moved by mere mortals.  A quad can get heavy.

I'm going to be experimenting with this in a couple weeks with my reboot of the Amboy Secondary module. Hoping that with semi weak magnets and soldered wire Catenary it can last a couple movements. I forget who, but somebody else here made a T-Trak Module of the Harrisburg line that also had fully modeled catenary.

[apudelek]

Any pics of your Amboy Secondary module, Al?  Always looking for inspiration and a good kick in the a$$ to keep moving on projects.

I was thinking of some kind of hook on the wire that would connect to the poles for ease of use, but I'm not even close to that yet.

As far as track spacing goes, I'm keeping the 33mm standard but I'm using the 14.36" width quads to compensate for having the center tracks as the T-Trak mains.  Seems like it'll work.  Ends will eventually be Masterpiece's 19R corners but with the 381/414mm superelevated curves on the inside to continue 4 tracks.  This ought to work based on the numbers I crunched.  I'm not terribly concerned about the end modules:  they'd likely never go to a show.

[dem34]

Last one before I got sidetracked with something else.


One of the track pieces had a severe bow in it so I ripped the tracks out with plans to redo it. Then wanted to make the K poles accurate to the location. So as of now its just a river with some wire holes drilled in and some excess sculptamold scraped on.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Wait, Unitrack can have flaws??
*****. My reality has just been messed with.

Kidding aside, I really like that!

It reminds me of a baby Anacostia.

[OldEastRR]

George, I have a set of the ESM sides but I think that's a bit above my abilities right now.  Likely these cars will get converted down the road when I feel more comfortable with slicing and dicing something that runs well.  I make enough mistakes as it is...

Use the ESM sides on a Kato PRR 10-6 sleeper (from the BL set or add-on).  the ESM sides match up perfectly (Don't use the KATO UP prototype sleepers, they are too long). The underframe equipment on the KATO car is wrong for the NH, but you get a solid frame, interior, detailed ends, trucks already as one solid unit.  With care you can leave the roof support in too, and the prototype style roof. DON'T try rearranging the interior compartments to match the 14-4 -- it compromises the integrity of the whole design.