Moving the immoveble object

[spookshow]

When I built my layout I expended exactly zero effort on making it movable - mainly because I didn't think I'd ever be moving. Well, now the universe has presented me with an offer I can't refuse - namely, a straight up swap of my current house for a nicer house in a nicer/quieter part of town. Which is all very well and good, but now I have to figure out how I'm going to go about moving this beast that I've been slaving over for the last 12 years -



I really have no idea how I'm going to get the thing from Point A to Point B, but I'm sure it's going to involve a lot of pain and agony 

Any and all suggestions welcome!

Thanks,
-Mark

[Rossford Yard]

Ouch!

I have had the occasion to move a few times.  My first thoughts were along the lines of yours, although, I have to say your use of the phrase "slaved over" indicates (similar to me) that your preferences lie elsewhere than construction.

My first N scale layout was at least built in three, 4 by X length sections (not all were and bolted together.  Any chance those 3 legs of the triangle were built separately? Or, a talented carpenter MIGHT be able to add a parallel section edge somewhere logical so the pieces could be sawed in half.

I was able to move that railroad once with minimal effort, well, minimal compared to building new.  My second move was to a space that didn't fit that layout, so I built new (with some help from friends).  Ditto my third move.

That said, most of my friends recommended saving the structures and whatever track (maybe even a mountain or two) and starting over.  Besides it not being much more difficult, it gives you a chance to upgrade the layout using everything you now know about model railroad design and building?  And, I have to ask, is that the best way to use your new space, or would a walk around layout (maybe saving the sections) re-arranged work out much better?

[DKS]

Need some particulars, starting with overall layout dimensions. What room is it in--looks like basement? What access does the room have--directly outside, or up interior stairs? What is the maximum size chunk that'll make it up the stairs? How far are you transporting it?

Any chance of success will depend on careful planning and thorough preparation. And also, what help you can get.

[spookshow]

The layout consists of variously sized/shaped pieces of 3" foam sheeting (held together with white glue and strips of plaster cloth). The sheets sit loosely on top of six plastic folding-leg tables (4' x 2' each).



Getting it up and out of my basement is going to involve a lot of twists and turns. Back when I was building small/portable layouts, I figured out that 7.5' x 4' was about as big as I could go and still get it up and down the steps. New house (about a 15 minute drive from my old one) will be much easier to navigate.

That front section (with the town) is about 13' wide and 4' deep. The back section (with the yard) is about 9' wide and 3' deep. The left section (with all the corn and the Cargill facility) is about 8' x 3'.

All of the big items (buildings, etc) are firmly glued down. Unfortunately, the same cannot be said for a good % of the smaller details 

-Mark

[DKS]

Interesting construction method. It may work to your advantage, but you're right when you said "I'm sure it's going to involve a lot of pain and agony."

My approach would be to carefully plan out the biggest segments you can extract and make it up the stairs. First, remove whatever you can from the layout, and that includes de-bonding as many structures as you can without causing irreparable damage. Strategically plot out points where you can cut the layout apart. Remove segments of track using a Dremel so that the track doesn't get torn apart, then cut the layout using a saber saw with an extra-deep blade. The cuts may not necessarily be straight--irregular cuts may be required to minimize damage. This will also probably require carefully relocating some of the folding tables so you're not sawing them apart, too.

It looks like you might be able to get by with four or maybe five sections.

That's what I'd do, anyway. Others may recommend different approaches--you may be able to crowdsource a process that works for you.

[davefoxx]

What DKS said, plus it looks like a keyhole saw or hacksaw blade to cut the foam and a jeweler's saw to cut the track would be the way to go.  Pick the spots that are least destructive to the track and scenery, e.g., try to cut the track only in straight sections and you might get lucky and find that a pair of rail joiners is all it takes to reconnect the track at the new residence.  Usually, scenery can be easily patched, but, in your case, with the amount of detail, you'll want to think ahead and plan your cuts accordingly.

Good luck,
DFF

[CRL]

I would use a thin, smooth blade, like a filet knife to cut the foam. This will minimize the foam dust. Then just patch it back together like you did when you built the layout. If you want to disguise the seam in certain areas, try envisioning adding drainage ditches and make your cuts where the ditches will go.

[spookshow]

Thanks for the ideas. Taking it apart at the existing seams may be the path of least resistance. And it's all Unitrack, so I should be able to just pull that apart at (or near) the seams. Leaving the buildings in place also seems like the path of least resistance - I just don't think it's going to be any easier to move with those out of the way (although some may need to come off if they happen to be sitting on seams). As for the loose details, I suppose I could just point a hair dryer at my layout and glue down everything that starts moving around in the breeze 

There's also the problem of all the hundreds of lights I have wired up on this thing (running through holes drilled into the foam and on through the plastic). But I think if cut great huge chunks out of the plastic table tops for the wires to drop through I shouldn't have too much trouble getting it all connected up again.

Yeah, it's going to be a mess no matter how I slice it (no pun intended), but it's at least starting to feel less hopeless.

-Mark

[wazzou]

...but it's at least starting to feel less Hopeless.

-Mark

Another nice pun there whether intended or not.   

[Tom L]

I built a previous layout in sections that bolted together, each section wired independently with jumpers in between, etc.  When we moved, I cut the foam and track and had it ready to go in 4 pieces. It only took like 30 mins. not including taking the buildings off.

By the time we carried the pieces upstairs to the moving van, I thought about all the things that bugged me about it and into the dumpster it went. I rebuilt it with mostly the same buildings, rolling stock and theme, but with a much improved track plan.

Tom L
Wellington

[Steveruger45]

The move could also be an opportunity to improve on the layout in any areas YOU think might need it. The receiving space may also give you some opportunities in this regard too.  Broader curves for example. This could then influence where the cuts go.
I’ve used an old electric carving knife to cut foam too.  It works well. Good luck.

[spookshow]

Sorry guys, I have zero interest in changing anything with this layout. It's about 95% finished and after 12 years I'm more than ready to just be done with it. Plus, I really like it the way it is

-Mark

[davefoxx]

Plus, I really like it the way it is

So do we. 

DFF

[wm3798]

Wherever possible, try to use the original panel joints as your guide.  There may be some scenery elements that overlap, in which case do as David suggests and make irregular cuts to avoid damage.

Regarding the track, you'll want to cut back about 2" of rail where you'll be cutting the panels.  This will give your sawsall room to work.

Keep in mind that you'll also want to note your cuts in the wiring to minimize the head scratching and cursing when it's time to put all that back together.

Lee

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Keep in mind that you'll also want to note your cuts in the wiring to minimize the head scratching and cursing when it's time to put all that back together.

It might be a good time to, if possible, install plugs or other methods (like terminal strips) to make reassembly easy.

One thing I would also suggest: a possible temporary frame around it. Layouts are generally designed for forces in one direction. A frame that ties it together in ways not originally envisioned may help prevent an "oh *****!" moment when it's sat on its edge or tipped sideways. Also think about using that frame to proactively prevent destructive events (ie, if it should NEVER be sat on an edge, design the frame so that it's impossible to do so).