New boxcar from Rapido

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I will admit I probably went a bit too thick with it too.

Honestly, I just hate that Tamiya flat clear. Like, I'm thinking I'm just going to throw the can out.

[peteski]

Another point for Tamiya vs Dullcote in cans or airbrushed- Tamiya spray cans have vastly better nozzles (compated to most rattle cans) that put on a fine coat without the setup time for an airbrush.

Ed, how thick of a coat did you put on? I have noticed if it ends up pooling/puddling it very slightly deformed the lower sill of an MT sleeper I was weathering. I have also had that happen where I screwed up my masking and had Tamiya paint pool on the side of a boxcar I was painting.

I've found using a couple very light coats seems to give best results.

Much better control of the paint volume and air pressure is why I use an airbrush. Spray cans just can't compete.  Especially for small items like N scale models.  No lazy way out for me.  To me the extra effort (including decanting spray cans) is worth it. Just saying . . .   

[nickelplate759]

 I've had really good luck with Tamiya clear flat, and semi-gloss, spray cans.  I greatly prefer it to Dullcote.

I wonder if it matters what you spray it over?  I'm using it over Tru-Color paint and various brands of decals.

[squirrelhunter]

I will admit I probably went a bit too thick with it too.

Honestly, I just hate that Tamiya flat clear. Like, I'm thinking I'm just going to throw the can out.

Just to be clear, my comments were not meant as a dig- I feel that the Tamiya clear coats work best with coats that run more to the end of "this really doesn’t look like enough" in my experience conpared to other finishes. And the pooling/pudding issues are from levels of paint that with other paints would be "eh, a little thick but still good"- and even then I've had other models that ended up with a too much on and no damage to the underlying paint/model.

Basically kind of the inverse of Tru Color paint, where in my experience you've got to get that on where it looks too thick to get good results.

[squirrelhunter]

Much better control of the paint volume and air pressure is why I use an airbrush. Spray cans just can't compete.  Especially for small items like N scale models.  No lazy way out for me.  To me the extra effort (including decanting spray cans) is worth it. Just saying . . .   

Don't disagree with the fact that an airbrush has better control, the rattle can will only let you treat something like a freight car with an overall coat. Definitely an inherent limitation.

But for things that can use that treatment, the Tamiya rattle cans do give very nice results that in my opinion can be conparable to an airbrush.

[bobdobbs]

Just got my lone sample, An SP as delivered version, a bit glossy, but the most egregious failure, is that it doesn't roll for S%!t.  Opened the box, took a look-see, but it on my track, gave it a nudge, 4 inches maybe.   A MT box, same nudge, you have to grab it or it will roll away.  Measured the wheel sets to see if Fox Valley .540's would work, but as my micrometer says the axle width is .534" on the Rapido's.  So no good.  Tried to see if there is any rubbing from the floor or other parts, nope.  Tried to gently spread the frames of the trucks to relieve any pressure, no. Tried to replace with a pair of BLMA 70 ton ride control trucks, I have in my archive, but fit they do not.

Beyond that a very nice model, the Hydra-Cushion (TM) under-frame is awesome.  Good car for the end of train to keep the spring action of your MT couplers down...

I'm a runner, so a string of these would really put your engines to the test. Just keep the one I guess.

[bbussey]

It should be possible to ream the journal box pockets with a drill bit so the trucks accept .540” axles. As I did with the tank cars, I’m definitely going to swap out the wheelsets when I acquire one of the SP as-built cars.

[bobdobbs]

It should be possible to ream the journal box pockets with a drill bit so the trucks accept .540” axles. As I did with the tank cars, I’m definitely going to swap out the wheelsets when I acquire one of the SP as-built cars.

Ahhh good idea, ill give it a shot, night make the OEM wheels roll better.

[Chris333]

I looked close at all the photos and it looks nothing like a Northern Pacific radial roof wood boxcar, sorry 

[mu26aeh]

Got notice from the shop my cars are in house.  But now I'm confused because I thought I only ordered one.  Hope he didn't write me down for a 6 pack 

[bbussey]

Got my car today.  The finish is decent, not too glossy and I will weather it down anyway.  However, I wasn't happy about all the lint I had to remove.  The trucks are 100-ton so I can't swap in ESM freight car red ASF trucks as I was hoping.  The truck detail is very soft, but that won't be noticeable from a distance when the car is on the track.  The wheels appear to be the same as on the tank car, so I will replace them.  The axle length is .533".  If they are the same wheelsets as used with the tankcar (which is likely), then ESM 36" wheels and .540" axles will work sufficiently.  If tight, I'll ream out the pockets with a drill bit until the wheels spin freely.

[bobdobbs]

Lot of extra work for a mid $30 USD boxcar.  I just carefully and slowly spread the truck frames wider, and this did the trick.

[bbussey]

I did the same, spread the truck frames slightly and swapped in ESM wheels.

[sd75i]

  I really like the AMTK silver ones!

[packers#1]

I got my MBK order that had one of these in it today; an ex-Golden West patched for SP (will probably add a second patch when I find a good prototype for it). Mine rolls just fine, like a dream out of the box.