Anybody have a Photon Mono X?

[Lemosteam]

The subject printer looks better than the straight Photon Mono that @GaryHinshaw and @SkipGear have, but I am wondering if the larger print area and dual rail are worth the extra $400+

Yeah Mr. Detractor (me) might be taking a the plunge based on his results so far.

[SkipGear]

John,

 I have a Mono-X. I have not had a single issue with it. I was one of the early adopters and pre-ordered it months before it's release. I love the printer and use it daily.

The only issue at all is a software anomaly in it that automatically ramps down your first layer time to the final layer time over 10 steps. You can't turn it off so it gives anything printed directly on the build plate elephants foot. There is supposed to be a future firmware update coming that will allow you turn that off.

At last check Chitubox didn't have a preset profile for the Mono-X but I don't care because I draw all my own supports and rafts. I don't care for any of the software out there that does it automatically. I just use the the factory Photon Slicer and have no issues with it.

[Lemosteam]

@SkipGear What drove you to the Mono X, bed size?  I also see the Mono SE there, too.

I really like the full access removable cover too.

That's a lot of xtra cad work to design supports man.

[SkipGear]

I had a Photon S for about 2 months. Used it to learn the art and craft of 3d printing. Realized that what I wanted to print was not going to fit the S without standing it on end. Standing the model on end imparted layering lines due to suction that detracted from the model. Besides that, printing on end, was taking 12 hours per print. The larger build plate, faster time, and longer screen life were the big selling points. It is virtually the same resolution as my Photon S but because of the higher power UV and Mono screen, prints are much cleaner and crisper. 

That said, I would pick up a plain Photon to learn on. There is a polarizer on the screen on the Mono's that doesn't take kindly to mistakes. If you get resin on it, you have to replace it. If I went through the learning curve that I did with the S, on this one, it probably would have needed a polarizer or screen by now. I know people talk about putting a screen protector on it, not sure if I am ready to do that or not.

[SkipGear]

Supports take me maybe 5-10 minutes at most. Since most of the things that I create are a regular shape, Cut / Paste / Duplicate makes things go fast. I have a standard support using a 2mm cylinder with a cone on top. Just make them taller or shorter to fit. If I was doing figures, auto support all the way.

[peteski]

There is a polarizer on the screen on the Mono's that doesn't take kindly to mistakes. If you get resin on it, you have to replace it.

Can't you add a screen protector (designed for tablets or smart phones) to protect the polarizer? Or maybe even carefully cover it with some Saran wrap (since it is a very thin plastic film)?

[Chris333]

That is what I was asking about the Sonic mini 4K. They say if you get resin on the screen you'll mess it up if you scrape it. On my Photon I have scraped resin off the screen with a razor many times.

[reinhardtjh]

Can't you add a screen protector (designed for tablets or smart phones) to protect the polarizer? Or maybe even carefully cover it with some Saran wrap (since it is a very thin plastic film)?

Many people on the Anycubic Photon Mono X Facebook groups are doing that.  The iPad Air screen protectors work.  You want the plastic ones, not the ones called "glass".  I have checked but I wonder what it does to the accuracy of the LCD projected light.

[peteski]

Many people on the Anycubic Photon Mono X Facebook groups are doing that.  The iPad Air screen protectors work.  You want the plastic ones, not the ones called "glass".  I have checked but I wonder what it does to the accuracy of the LCD projected light.

Well, that's why I suggested Saran wrap.  Very transparent and very, very thin clingy plastic foil.  If resin gets on it, just peel and replace..

[Stephane]

Screen protector must be matte or the fep sticks to the screen protector (some people have had bad experiences with glossy films - as reported in the mono x discussion groups).  I applied a screen protector to my mono x.  So far I've not seen any degradation on quality. 

[SkipGear]

The thickness is my worry. When we are talking .020 mm layers, a couple mill thick screen protector is now placing the resin mayor percentage points farther from the screen. I worry about the chance that the screen protector will diffuse the image.

I need to investigate them farther but this thing is working flawlessly right now. I'm a firm believer in "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."

[reinhardtjh]

The thickness is my worry. When we are talking .020 mm layers, a couple mill thick screen protector is now placing the resin mayor percentage points farther from the screen. I worry about the chance that the screen protector will diffuse the image.

That's what I'm worried about.  Most people are making miniatures and not worrying about fitting walls, floors, etc together where some blooming makes a huge difference.

[peteski]

What is the thickness of the FEP itself?  I suspect that it is relatively thick.  Adding some Saran Wrap film (it is probably 0.0005" thick) would likely not make much difference.  I also woudl not think that matte finish protector would be a good idea because the matte surface scatters light waves (that is what makes it matte).

[SkipGear]

Saran wrap is hardly optically optimum. Getting it down without bubbles and stretch marks would be next to impossible. Also clingyness is a problem. The FEP film stretches slightly and pulls off of the screen to help peel the parts off properly for each layer. The FEP could stick to the screen and cause failed prints.

The FEP is .012 - .015mm thick.

[Chris333]

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If it doesn't work just peel it off and re-level.