Are 3D transparent parts feasible?

[bbussey]

Question for all of the pioneers with 3D printers:  Is there a transparent resin available and is it possible to print transparent clear parts, such as glass lens of a street light?  I've seen the transparent green, and I know the Perfactory machines rendered with a transparent red resin, but they wouldn't be useful.  Clear would be the only viable option.

[SkipGear]

I'll let you know in a little bit. Yes there is water clear Resin available. How well it will work is yet to be determined . I plan to use it to print windows for the Cincinnatian to get flush mounted thermopane windows.

[bbussey]

That sounds cool Tony, I hope it works.  I wouldn't even need it crystal clear, slightly frosted would be fine for my purpose.  It would just have to let light through cleanly.

[Wutter]

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I've only printed really small items in clear but they still come out slightly matte and translucent. This is PhotoCentric 3D, which isn't my favorite resin (long exposure times and soft detail). it will also need to be protected with some sort of clear paint to prevent UV yellowing over time.

What is the geometry you are trying to print? I'm assuming a simulated glass street lamp lens with an LED inside? The issue is that a lot of the clear resins don't stay clear after curing.

[wvgca]

there are several different clears out there ....
most are -slightly- matte however, and require a clear spray on top ...
also the strength is less than opaque plastics

[bbussey]

What is the geometry you are trying to print? I'm assuming a simulated glass street lamp lens with an LED inside? The issue is that a lot of the clear resins don't stay clear after curing.

Slightly matte and translucent would actually be preferred to crystal clear transparency.  I'm working on the concept of Bishop Crook street lights in N.  So even a fade to yellow wouldn't be a bad thing.

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[Wutter]

This is the same Photocentric3D resin used to print a miniature, the right is slightly overcured resulting in the yellowing, while the left is properly cured. Neither are coated in a clear paint actually but they have not been sitting in the sun or anything, just in a dark location on my desk.

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[Mark W]

(Attachment Link)
The issue is that a lot of the clear resins don't stay clear after curing.

I've had the opposite experience.  The resin yellowed while still liquid, prior to print/curing.   Once cured, I've not observed any yellowing, even with occasional daylight exposure.  (Anycubic Clear)
I do recommend a coat or two of Mr. Surfacer's UV Cut, which helps de-fog them as well.


Cleaned and cured, with no UV cut, I would call it 'frosted'


https://i.imgur.com/JxHl0Ik.jpg


With a coat of UV cut and a few layers of floor wax, they clear right up!  Note, the print lines visible are from the inside of the glass where no sanding was done.  Layer lines on the outside were sanded smooth and crystal clear! (Well, almost) 


https://i.imgur.com/ZXpcz23.jpg

[John]

did you print the whole tractor in clear and then paint it up?

[SkipGear]

I've seen quite a few suggestions of dipping the part in resin and cure it without washing to restore the finish. On clear miniatures that seems to work, not sure for us.

[Mark W]

did you print the whole tractor in clear and then paint it up?

The cab glass is a separate part.   I suppose I could have sanded the inside with a dremel bit... 

I've seen quite a few suggestions of dipping the part in resin and cure it without washing to restore the finish. On clear miniatures that seems to work, not sure for us.

I actually tried that!  With the toxicity of uncured resin, handling was difficult and the result still did not quite gloss over the print lines.  Less defined, but still visible.  I don't think it's worth trouble vs a light sanding and a few dips in the floor wax.  Maybe it would be better suited on purely organic shapes where sanding would be more difficult. 

[bbussey]

The cab glass is a separate part.   I suppose I could have sanded the inside with a dremel bit... 

I actually tried that!  With the toxicity of uncured resin, handling was difficult and the result still did not quite gloss over the print lines.  Less defined, but still visible.  I don't think it's worth trouble vs a light sanding and a few dips in the floor wax.  Maybe it would be better suited on purely organic shapes where sanding would be more difficult.

I was going to mention that a dip in Future would clear it as well I would think.

It's good to know that the option does exist.