T-TRAK: PRR MG Interlocking

[OldEastRR]

And in a variation of "you build it, then they'll make the model" it's somewhat ironic that Monster Modelworks is getting back into business, the guy with the excellent brick sheet plywood possible as replacement for the kit walls that would have solved your consternation with the corners you couldn't angle-cut and fit tight.
How about building another tower kit?

[chicken45]

Also in my case, I build it, and they tear down the original.

Anyways, I will be ordering track soon.

Oh yeah, the project has snowballed into Cassandra, too.

[chicken45]

Big things are happening, kids! All my Unitrack will be in for a full 4 track loop. Bawler.
In the meantime, I've been chipping away at ballasting MG.
In short, it sucks.
But I do like that it's finite.
Still got a long way to go, but ballasting Unitrack is exactly as much fun as I thought it would be (none).







I have been using smith and son's ballast. This shade is almost too dark when it absorbs the glue. I've mostly been shaping the ballast, flooding it with alcohol/water, then hitting it with diluted white glue.
I then chip away at it with an awl. The space between the ties is shallow, but, it works. The tie gaps are deeper in some sections of the turnouts. For those parts, i just paint in white glue and powder ballast from the top.
My current challenge is what to do with the ballast areas between the switch point rails. I may just have to try to paint them.
Eventually I'll be weathering them with sand and brake dust:
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[wm3798]

That will look good clipped between Cumberland and south Philly.

Maybe you should add a merry go round, or a building on fire.

Lee

[chicken45]

That will look good clipped between Cumberland and south Philly.

Maybe you should add a merry go round, or a building on fire.

Lee

Uh, what?

[davefoxx]

Uh, what?

"Oh, stewardess!  I speak jive.  He said that he wants you to place your T-TRAK module between his Cumberland module and Ed's South Philly module, but he wants you to then NTrak it up with a merry-go-round or building on fire."

~Jive Lady

[Ed Kapuscinski]

That will look good clipped between Cumberland and south Philly.

*Northeast Philly.

[Point353]

*Northeast Philly.

Isn't that where the juveniles used to hang shopping carts from the bridges over the tracks to go fishing for pantographs?

[DKS]

My current challenge is what to do with the ballast areas between the switch point rails.

Apply masking tape over the turnout actuating lever slot. Mix up some thinned white glue that's not as thin as ballasting mix--say, 2:1 glue to water. Using a fine brush, apply the glue like paint over the plastic ballast between the ties. Sprinkle on some dry ballast. Wait until dry, then vacuum.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Isn't that where the juveniles used to hang shopping carts from the bridges over the tracks to go fishing for pantographs?

I've never heard about that one, but I have heard of all sorts of shenanigans. In fact, kids messing with trains was likely a contributing factor in that big wreck at Frankford Jct on the NEC a while back.

[davefoxx]

*Northeast Philly.

I thought that you were West Philadelphia, born and raised.  You remember, on the playground is where you spent most of your days. 

DFF

[chicken45]

Hey @DKS  will that technique work for this area:
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Thank you!

[DKS]

Should work for any area that can't be ballasted the usual way. BTW, when using glue around point pivots and throwbars, apply a drop or two of light plastic-safe oil to each joint to keep them from getting bonded.

[chicken45]

Should work for any area that can't be ballasted the usual way. BTW, when using glue around point pivots and throwbars, apply a drop or two of light plastic-safe oil to each joint to keep them from getting bonded.

@DKS Oh man that's a good idea. Would a petroleum based oil be safe to use? What about a synthetic hydrocarbon oil?

It seems the only oils I currently have are rotor valve oils for my trombone!

They are Blue Juice: Blue Juice Valve Oil is a light, fast, refined petroleum product that's especially effective on close-tolerance musical instrument valves. What distinguishes Blue Juice valve oil-aside from its distinctive blue coloring-is that it delivers an anti-corrosion agent for extra protection. 2 oz.

and Hetman's: All Hetman Musical Instruments Lubricants offer superior lubricating qualities, are longer-lasting than other lubricants, and are completely compatible with conventional petroleum-based lubricants, thereby avoiding potential gumming problems. The viscosity of each lubricant is carefully formulated for its specific purpose and assures both fast, positive action and vital protection against wear and corrosion.

For new rotary valve instruments with close tolerance spindle bearings. Will not swell rubber valve bumpers. Precision needle oiler.

Also paging @Hornwrecker !

[Ed Kapuscinski]

It seems the only oils I currently have are rotor valve oils for my trombone!

I call BS.