The 2-10-0 project

[Albert in N]

MiniTrix made a 2-10-0 but was based on an European N scale mechanism with a MiniTrix K-4 pacific body, so the nose was too long making the steam cylinder misaligned.  It does run well and looks good from a distance.

[Lemosteam]

Mike,

I had forgotten that I posted this thread some time ago- at some point my build will resume.  The second one I have planned will use the Bachmann K4 slides and possibly drive rods because the Rivarossi/Rowa/MRC Bershire are near impossible to find.

[eric220]

MiniTrix made a 2-10-0 but was based on an European N scale mechanism with a MiniTrix K-4 pacific body, so the nose was too long making the steam cylinder misaligned.  It does run well and looks good from a distance.

I like to call that the I1s-almost

[Lemosteam]

I like to call that the I1s-almost

Well it was good enough for me to make an L1 out of it after putting mike drivers on the original axles!   

https://photos.app.goo.gl/MfsxnEnP81aXXTzS8

[eric220]

Well it was good enough for me to make an L1 out of it after putting mike drives on the original axle!   

https://photos.app.goo.gl/MfsxnEnP81aXXTzS8

Hawt!  It can certainly be fixed by a skilled modeler, but as delivered it's so close, yet so far away.

[Albert in N]

   Adding both side comparison of valve gear on ConCor/Rivarossi Berkshire with Rivarossi Challenger, Mikado, and MiniTrix Decapod.  Sorry for the crappy 16-meg camera with user vibration, but Hey, that's what I have.  The second photo was taken before my coffee kicked in; I even set the Berkshire tender back assward! I have Rivarossi valve gear parts for Mikado and Challenger, but, alas, they are shorter than Berkshire.  The Berkshire is a later model and has plastic stationary front valve gear. 

[Cajonpassfan]

Well it was good enough for me to make an L1 out of it after putting mike drives on the original axle!   

https://photos.app.goo.gl/MfsxnEnP81aXXTzS8

John, you did WHAT?
That’s pretty cool!
Otto

[Lemosteam]

@Cajonpassfan , Lots of folks at The Railwire never saw this project because it was on the original A-Board.

As I finish that loco I'll likely start a unique build thread for it.

Back to the OP. 

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I like to call that the I1s-almost

An I.7.

[muktown128]

Since the SPF's finally got a K4, how about we start a rant for an I1sa or a J1? 

[randgust]

The PRR I1s is also featured in the Model Railroader Cyclopedia steam locomotives Volume 1 - page 58-59 including 4 cross sections, side elevation, and a frame drawing.

[wm3798]

I have a @Lemosteam question...  I haven't got a Trix decapod in the collection currently, but I had one many thousands of years ago.  (I cut some short bits of drinking straw to extend the cylinders to line up more or less with the smoke box, then painted the whole mess blue and gray in the manner of the engine I really wanted... the Rivarossi Pacific in B&O)

Anyway, the drive went bust, probably by my own clumsy hand, and eventually the whole thing evaporated into the mists.

So I'm thinking about getting a new one so I can have a more appropriate freight hauler when Pennsy Steam Night rolls around on the Retro Layout.

Since I'm not adhering to any strict standards (either as a retro collector or a PRR modeler) I intend to modify the shell adequately to adjust for the smoke box issue, and maybe scab together a longer tender.  My question is, can the drive for the 2-10-0 be given a similar upgrade that you apply to the K-4 drive, or do you think the original drive would be adequate for my purposes?  At the very least, I would do a tender pick up improvement, but I'm wondering how the gearing/motor stack up, and would it be worth it to do the upgrades... and do you have parts available?

Lee

[reinhardtjh]

Since the SPF's finally got a K4, how about we start a rant for an I1sa or a J1?

I have a few Con-Cor 2-10-2's that I hope to turn into PRR J1 and/or C&O T1 2-10-4's at some point.  The driver size and spacing is just about perfect.  I keep forgetting to check the valve gear though.  I also have 4 GHQ L1 kits and Kato Mikado's intended for I1sa builds.  Probably about the time I get them all done BLI will have released RTR versions of both... 

[Lemosteam]

I have a @Lemosteam question...  I haven't got a Trix decapod in the collection currently, but I had one many thousands of years ago.  (I cut some short bits of drinking straw to extend the cylinders to line up more or less with the smoke box, then painted the whole mess blue and gray in the manner of the engine I really wanted... the Rivarossi Pacific in B&O)

Anyway, the drive went bust, probably by my own clumsy hand, and eventually the whole thing evaporated into the mists.

So I'm thinking about getting a new one so I can have a more appropriate freight hauler when Pennsy Steam Night rolls around on the Retro Layout.

Since I'm not adhering to any strict standards (either as a retro collector or a PRR modeler) I intend to modify the shell adequately to adjust for the smoke box issue, and maybe scab together a longer tender.  My question is, can the drive for the 2-10-0 be given a similar upgrade that you apply to the K-4 drive, or do you think the original drive would be adequate for my purposes?  At the very least, I would do a tender pick up improvement, but I'm wondering how the gearing/motor stack up, and would it be worth it to do the upgrades... and do you have parts available?

Lee

@wm3798 Yup, see here.  This is a Trix Decapod, before I turned it into an L1 same lifelike 5 poler as I put into your K4.

[wm3798]

Thanks, John.
I'll put out an APB for a Decapod once a few more sheckels find their way into my pot.

Lee