Weekend Update 1/5/20

[mmagliaro]

Or to double up the contacts for extra reliability.

Actually, the contacts in a turnout slide switch have occasionally gone bad on me.  Because it was a DPDT with an unused set of contacts, I was able to just switch wires to fix it without tearing out the slide switch or digging up any scenery.  It happened once when I was building my present layout, so I started using DPDT for all of them, and left the other 3 contacts with wires already soldered to them and just coiled up and tucked up into the benchwork below the turnout in case I ever need them.  It's usually just pennies (or zero) difference in cost between an SPDT and DPDT.

[Chris333]

Actually, the contacts in a turnout slide switch have occasionally gone bad on me.  Because it was a DPDT with an unused set of contacts, I was able to just switch wires to fix it without tearing out the slide switch or digging up any scenery.  It happened once when I was building my present layout, so I started using DPDT for all of them, and left the other 3 contacts with wires already soldered to them and just coiled up and tucked up into the benchwork below the turnout in case I ever need them.  It's usually just pennies (or zero) difference in cost between an SPDT and DPDT.

I use DPDT slide switches for turnout power routing. I bend the 6 contact fingers till they touch each other. Well till 3 sets of 2 touch each other. I do a wrap or 2 of wire around where they touch and solder it all together.

[Steveruger45]

I use DPDT slide switches for turnout power routing. I bend the 6 contact fingers till they touch each other. Well till 3 sets of 2 touch each other. I do a wrap or 2 of wire around where they touch and solder it all together.

As Ed has left quite a lot of bare wire on the end connection he could just bend the wire over to touch the other terminal on each leg and parallel up the contacts quite easily.

Now that’s what I call thinking ahead, Ed. 

[Lemosteam]

Yep.  I bend the tabs together so as not to waste wire.  Both contacts would have to fail in the switch before it is rendered useless.

Here are the Keystone Details instructions for my switch holders that mate directly to any Atlas turnout:

https://goo.gl/photos/8wXDWNyJW33TP3S47

After bending and solder:



After 3 1/8" shrink tube and one 1/4" shrink tubing to pervent inadvertent issues during layout installation:

 

[NtheBasement]

I think your helix is lovely  . If you , which I believe you can , reach all tracks unobstructed from one side , the other side can be a solid wall . I cant remember one being built this way , but I think it is the best way . I little swivel stool possibly made from a computer chair that easily can be raised would save the knees for future abuse . Excellent layout Sir .

Thank you!  The helix is indeed entirely open in the center, which makes track cleaning super easy (but dizzying as you spin round and round).  I clip a foam board in at the bottom for stringline insurance.

Besides providing easy track access the design let me locate the helix back in the corner of the room instead of out at an edge where it would use up valuable accessible real estate.

[wm3798]

I always staple flexible fiberglass screen to the inside of each layer of the helix to create a guard rail, but one that's flexible enough to reach over without hurting yourself, and which catches errant equipment without scuffing it up or breaking off details.  Works like a champ!



The lower loop shows the typical guardrail set up, I fold the screen mesh over so it's fold is at the top, then staple the cut edge to the sub road bed.  The upper shows the screen filling the void inside the loop where I can access the track from the aisle.  Keeps the insides in and outsides out.

Lee