Weekend Update 11/17/19

[up1950s]

https://nprymuseum.org/shell-tanker-car/

https://nprymuseum.org/fageol/

https://www.antiquesnavigator.com/d-1906222/large-11x14-shell-oil-sepx-10150-american-car--foundry-tank-car-photo.html

http://www.steamerafreightcars.com/gallery/tank/rpx161.html

Maybe these can work size wise
http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MD&Product_Code=90311&Category_Code=ALPHA

[wm3798]

Worked on the highway bridge.  The trick was getting it to end at the fascia without the benefit of an abutment...


The canal will pass under the clipped span.



Today I took delivery of a Lifelike Baldwin Station, which is based on the B&O prototype at Sykesville, a bunch of LED platform lights, another bag o' trees, and this big Johnson...



Literally the first Conrail power I've purchased since the early 90s.
More news as the weekend progresses!

Lee

[Albert in N]

   This is looking good!  Retro N scale is habit forming.  When running some of my older stuff with open frame electric motors, I sniff the ozone.  It reminds me of my youth with American Flyer and Lionel tin plate.  Trains can be relaxing.  Of course at age 75, my stress level has really declined.  I need to group some of the old stuff and post a few photos in a new thread. 

[davefoxx]

Hurry, everyone post before @spookshow gets here and makes us looks like a bunch of neophytes. 

DFF

[Mark W]

More fun with the new 3D printer this week.  Starting off with the 3mm Unijoiner. 

The 3mm Joiner works in resin, but because UV resin is so brittle they were basically one time use.  Now in PLA, they have strength too!


https://i.imgur.com/bWbzaC1.jpg

The joiners were printed in 'speed' mode. Thick layers and fast movements. 
Next, I finally got to test the wind turbine blades!  (Or as literally everyone at shows call them "Wind Propellers"  )
For these I tested 'ultra detail' mode. 


https://i.imgur.com/TFsxUUZ.jpg


Well I must say I am very surprised, especially in the surface finish.  On top is my PLA print with the Prusa, on the bottom is the Shapewas print in Laser Sintered Nylon. Guess how many times more expensive the Shapeways print is?


https://i.imgur.com/IUEhlob.jpg


Let's zoom in.  FDM is known for clearly visible layer lines, right?   

Where?!  The width on the blade tip before it tapers to a point is 2.75mm.  Those layers are microscopic!


https://i.imgur.com/KOpfQmA.jpg



And in my usual holiday fashion, I can't neglect the resin printer.

It's Turkey time!


https://i.imgur.com/Zr8adRW.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/1OAdKPN.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/KeUNbJd.jpg

[MK]

Damn!  Those turkeys!   

[peteski]

As usual, really cool stuff Mark!  What is the purpose of those extenders Unijoners?  Seems that it leaves a huge gap in the track (even larger than the largest NTRAK gaps I have ever seen. 

[Iain]

I gave a talk about JRMI and DCC at a local Linux conference today.

[Mark W]

What is the purpose of those extenders Unijoners?  Seems that it leaves a huge gap in the track (even larger than the largest NTRAK gaps I have ever seen. 

The #4 turnout is 3mm longer than the standard 128mm section.  This custom joiner fills that gap. 
One could also use a combination of the small single track lengths, but then you don't get the consistent concrete tie spacing on that other line.

And the gap is just filled with a 3mm section of rail that I (still) haven't gotten around to cutting.  But interestingly, being on a straight, I've never had a train derail across that gap! 
See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agznZBiK_Bs


https://i.imgur.com/liMDAjW.jpg

[mark dance]

I love those Turkeys Mark!

From my end of the continent, more "in process" structures...

A CPR std light duty truck ramp for Cascade



And the Nelson sandhouse proto (photo: Mike Barone) and model





Have a great weekend!

md

[peteski]

The #4 turnout is 3mm longer than the standard 128mm section.  This custom joiner fills that gap. 

And the gap is just filled with a 3mm section of rail that I (still) haven't gotten around to cutting.  But interestingly, being on a straight, I've never had a train derail across that gap! 
See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agznZBiK_Bs

Ah, using a 3mm piece filler rail sounds like a great idea, and yes, I have seen trains successfully traverse large gaps on NTRAK layouts - yours just seemed wider than what I remember on NTRAK layouts.

[peteski]

I actually have something to show this time.  I finished building a milk Wagon for friend's diorama layout.



It is an etched brass kit from N Scale Architect.  I also used their horses and milk cans.  It was mostly soldered, with few parts attached with CA and 5-minnute epoxy.  I was not impressed with the kit - I wish the instructions were clearer (the photos in the instructions are of the H0 model), and most parts do not have positive locators.



The axles were very thin. I added small pieces of brass tubing so the wheels fit better.

[OldEastRR]

Worked on the highway bridge.  The trick was getting it to end at the fascia without the benefit of an abutment...


The canal will pass under the clipped span.

Today I took delivery of a Lifelike Baldwin Station, which is based on the B&O prototype at Sykesville, a bunch of LED platform lights, another bag o' trees, and this big Johnson...

Literally the first Conrail power I've purchased since the early 90s.
More news as the weekend progresses!

Lee

Why didn't you just extend the fascia up to meet the end of the bridge (at least to the bottom of the roadway)? Looks like that would've helped hide the wiring under it too.

[nkalanaga]

If the gap isn't a problem for trains crossing it, electrically, why not print the gap-filling rail as part of the joiner?  No need to cut, or fiddle with, a little piece of metal.

[peteski]

If the gap isn't a problem for trains crossing it, electrically, why not print the gap-filling rail as part of the joiner?  No need to cut, or fiddle with, a little piece of metal.

A standard Kato metal joiner is installed into the extended joiner Mark printed. There is not way to print the piece of plastic rail to protrude through the metal joiner.  Come to think of it, Kato joiners are very deep. I don't think they can hold a 3mm piece of rail securely - it will fall into the metal joiner.