Putty Recommendations

[Mark5]

That looks like enough material to last a lifetime of modeling!

Yeah, I think the smallest size is a pint.

[peteski]

I knew you'd be the first to offer an opinion and I agree with it in general but compared to Squadron Putty, I feel this Bondo offers a night/day difference.


I will add that over the last few years, in addition to the Bondo, I have been using Mr. Surfacer by Gunze Sangyo, often after the Bondo sanding.
I have 500, 1000 and 1200.  Thickest to thinnest.

If this was a reply to my post, I didn't even mention Squadron putties.  I avoid using solvent-based putties.  I try to avoid putties in general, and on plastic kits I usually use super glue as a filler.  But on metal surfaces (which the OP was asking about) Bondo would be ideal (since it is designed to work on metal surfaces).  Gunze Sangyo (CREOS) products you mentioned also work very well in thin applications (as those are one-part solvent-based products).

And it just happens that there is a good tutorial about the Bondo 2-part putty in a model car forum I frequent.
http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/145426-bondo-801-professional-glazing-spot-putty/

[wazzou]

It was a reply to your post and I have no issues with it.
I've much experience in all forms of modeling and I've used likely all forms of fillers, including CA.
*** I have no experience with any Milliput products despite my intent to try it.
I have used Bondo that requires hardeners and have determined over the years that it is more than I need, therefore wasted.
The Bondo I now use, in the tube as pictured is the most efficient compromise in that it is much better than Squadron green or white putties with regard to shrinkage and with my discovery of Mr. Surfacer, I have no issues with my methods, IMO, of course.

[Missaberoad]

Remember Edd China's top tip for bondo, golf ball of filler plus pea of hardner... (adjusted for your scale of course  )

[ai5629]

I really appreciate the responses to my post.  Looks like a trip to Wal Mart is now on my agenda this week.  I have the cars in Scalecoat Washaway to remove the Tamiya putty so I can start the patching over again.  Thank you.

Jeff
 

[Mark5]

Bryan,

Will try that tube Bondo some time, though currently also use the 2 part stuff (sparingly) on 1:1 autos - thanks for the tip!

Mark

[narrowminded]

The Bondo I now use, in the tube as pictured is the most efficient compromise in that it is much better than Squadron green or white putties with regard to shrinkage...

It may be that the tube Bondo isn't solvent based but reacts with moisture in the air like CA, avoiding the shrinkage of solvent evaporating.

[wazzou]

It may be that the tube Bondo isn't solvent based but reacts with moisture in the air like CA, avoiding the shrinkage of solvent evaporating.

I think it's solvent based due to the strong odor.  I just don't think it shrinks as much as other hobby putties.

My motto is always to make cuts where seams result as straight as possible followed by careful filing and finish sanding to avoid the necessity of using putty or to use as little as possible.

[peteski]

There seems to be some sort of confusion here.  Bondo  did (or does) make a solvent based glazing putty which hardens by evaporation and shrinks a bit, but the professional glazing and spot Bondo putty in a tube we are discussing here (or at least I am) is a 2-part polyester putty and hardener which have to be mixed before use and it hardens by chemical reaction (no shrinkage).

The old-school solvent-based (shrinking slightly)glazing putty. Part#907
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bondo-glazing-spot-putty-45-oz-907/7100876-P



This is the new 2-part putty. Part#801
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bondo-professional-glazing-spot-putty-30-oz-801/7100031-P

[Maletrain]

While I have never used Bondo by brand name, I have used a lot of polyester putty working on boats.  So, I am thinking that this stuff goes through an exothermic reaction to harden.  Sizeable lots of the mixture have gotten quite hot on my boat repairs. So I am wondering if that is a problem with Bondo in this context, where it is applied in pretty small quantities, and probably pretty thin. 

[Mark5]

I've used Bondo over many decades, don't recall it becoming particularly hot.

[peteski]

While I have never used Bondo by brand name, I have used a lot of polyester putty working on boats.  So, I am thinking that this stuff goes through an exothermic reaction to harden.  Sizeable lots of the mixture have gotten quite hot on my boat repairs. So I am wondering if that is a problem with Bondo in this context, where it is applied in pretty small quantities, and probably pretty thin.

Not a problem. yes, if you have a hand-size patch about 1/2" thick, it will get quite warm when it hardens, but nowhere near hot enough to burn you skin, or melt plastic (or white metal car body).  At the amounts we use for smoothing out N scale items, it won't even get warm. Actually warming up the model will help the reaction. If it is too cold, it takes longer to harden.

[robert3985]

Although I rarely use putty, when I have to I use Bondo.  I've used it for years with excellent results and I agree with all those who use it and like it.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[cv_acr]

This is the new 2-part putty. Part#801
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bondo-professional-glazing-spot-putty-30-oz-801/7100031-P

How does a 2-part putty come in a single tube? (Or is there another thing in the package that isn't visible?)

[MK]

The second part is a smaller tube behind the big tube and isn't visible.