N scale layout

[cjp53]

Can a layout 55 inches by 41 inches support a 13.75 inch radius curve.Want to use Atlas Code 80 track.Was going to use 11.25 inch Kato track but really don't want that as I prefer track and cork bed with ballast I would put down.

[peteski]

13.75" radius is measured at the center-line of the roadbed.  To get the outside radius of the track circle, add roughly another inch (it is less than an inch, but 1" is close enough). So that ends up being 14.75".  Diameter will then be twice the radius, or 29.5". So yes, you can fit 29.5" circle, or any part of that circle, onto a 41" wide layout.  At least that  is how I understand your question.

[Steveruger45]

I see Pete beat me to it.  Yes, exactly what he said.
You could get up to a 19” radius circle or part of circle on your base dimensions and leave a little clearance at the edges.

[cjp53]

I plan one just one track and running it on the outer edge of the layout.I have a huge HO layout in the basement that I did 25 years ago on plywood.But I'm bad with math.Thank you for your answer sounds like I can buy the curved track and get started.And I see another answer that backs up your reply.Thank you.

[cjp53]

Thank you Steve and Pete.

[Steveruger45]

Your welcome.   I’m not trying to influence your choice of track but thought the following may be helpful.
You can still ballast Kato track.  That’s what I’ve done.  I use a mix of woodland scenics fine ballast in a ratio of 1 part cinders to 1 part light gray and 5 parts gray.  If you go this route be very careful not to get glue and stay ballast into any switches. [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[cjp53]

Thank you for that tip,I know with adapter pieces you can run both Kato track and Atlas flex but now we're getting into more money and I'm trying to stay on a budget.I did flex on my HO layout and thought about using that for my straight sections.Atlas code 80 does not give you many choices in different radius.19 inch is putting it on the very edge so I would have to put up a clear wall for protection of my engines hitting the floor.I don't run long passenger or freight cars.Not sure about using the other type tracks other than code 80.I have been away from the Hobby for over 20 years but now have Grandchildren that I'm doing this for.But I have to admit I'm also doing it for myself.LOL

[Steveruger45]

You don’t need the Kato adapter track. On the end of any kato track just remove the Kato rail joiner and use atlas rail joiners to connect your flex track.  What I did was solder the atlas joiners after attaching the flex track to the very short Kato track pieces. I used the same soldered joint as power feeds too.
In my case I had a bunch of Peco code 80 and code 55 and short Kato straights left over to use.
It was easier to do this in my case on my hidden staging. 

For best visual appearance though, on a small layout, I would recommend to stick with one track type throughout.
Let us all know how you get on and maybe post some photos of the layout you make.

BTW you can post photos on TRW after making 25 posts.


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[cjp53]

Thank you again.I have 2 pieces of code 80 N scale flex track and cork road I bought last month when I was at my local Train shop.With this small layout I'll have to price the curved sections see what options I have in a smaller radius.I want it smaller than 19 inch but think I want something close to 15 inch to keep it a safe distance from the edge.

[Steveruger45]

If you want you could always use the flex for the curves.  There are various radius aides to help with this available, “Tracksetter”  being one.  But you could just draw your track center line on the layout top.  To help form the curves Center line you can mock up a compass by using a nail/piece of string with loops at each end/pencil where the nail is the circle center and the length of string from that to the pencil being the radius.   When happy, glue your cork strips to each side of the center lines.  When dry, glue the track down following the center joint in the cork holding the track in place with pins while the glue dries.  This way you will have fewer track joints and your not limited to the size of ready-made curves available. 
No mater how far back from the edge you make the track there is a high probability of disastrous derailment as the grandkids will probably want to go wide open throttle, at least at first.    Mine did.

All the best.

[cjp53]

I was just trying the flex in the curves and thought that as an option.Right now that looks really promising.You're right about them and the throttle.My 7 year old grandson has already taken a caboose off of the track and derailing a couple cars.lol I also thought about the string and pencil just this morning as I was trying the flex in the curves.I did that with my HO layout but had forgotten that.I noticed the rail that moves on the flex track if kept on the inside of the curve stays the same length on both sides that I would be trimming and I would not need to remove any ties.Again I have not worked with flex in a very long time and had forgotten that one rail is loose.I'm going to have to bring up videos on using flex tack.Old age is setting in.lol

[wm3798]

Actually...
With flex, in N scale anyway, it's best to keep the sliding rail to the outside of the curve.  Also, since you almost always need to have two sections to get all the way around a 180 degree turn, you'll want to solder the two sections together as a straight line with both having the sliding rail on the same side, THEN flex them to make your curve.



You'll have to trim back a couple of ties to make the solder joint, but you can go back and slip ties back into place when you ballast.

This helps you avoid a kink at the joint, as the soldered joint will "flow" around the bend like a single long piece of rail...  Think welded rail on the 1:1 scale models...

Then, when you have your curve established, trim the excess rail back to join it to the next section.  Anywhere a flex track joint occurs on or near a curve, it should be soldered.  At the first straight section or joint with sectional track, leave that unsoldered to provide a little room for expansion, especially if your layout is in unconditioned space like a basement or attic, or in a semi-conditioned space like a garage or finished basement.

Lee

[cjp53]

Thank you very much for the tips and advice as it will help me.

[tlaswell]

I once saw a demo of how to make KATO track flex a some.  They just cut slots from the outside up to almost the edge of the ties every inch or two.  You might be able to use that to make a 21 inch radius flex to 19.

[dem34]

That sounds like a lot of effort for subpar and very expensive flex track.