Weekend Update 7/28/19

[Sharky_McSharknose]

Misadventures in the paint booth.

This is my first attempt to weather the silver roof of a boxcar, in this case the victim is a $6 NOS Roundhouse boxcar kit. I used an AK Interactive brown wash for the first pass, then burnt sienna and raw umber artist's oils for the rust. The oils need to dry before I can Dullcote it and knock down the shine, but so far I'm not sure I'm liking what I've done. The paint reminds me of food residue stuck to a pan more than real-life rust spots.



This is the article I was following. I'm guessing some of the techniques may not work in N scale like they do here in HO.
http://rrmodelcraftsman.com/weathering-an-ex-penn-central-conrail-boxcar/

I did try the zinc white oil paint on a M-T PC boxcar to fade it and it's coming out much better. No pictures since I can't touch it while it dries. I'll post it here or in next week's thread.

One more victim of my hack-jobbing, a Kato E8A undecorated shell being turned into MBTA E8A 4261. The prototype locomotive is ex-PC, nee-PRR, and is currently stored in DLW livery on the former Saratoga and North Creek. While it served with the T in the late 70's/early 80's it was given an experimental "gray ghost" livery. The rest of the T's E8As remained in PC black until they were retired.

Prototype:
MBTA E8 4261 SoSta 9-28-1980JRS by ironmike9, on Flickr

My progress:





My model isn't exact. I left the forward six portholes intact instead of filling them in to match the prototype. If I decide to make a black MBTA E8A in the future I will fill them in. Right now, I'm waiting on decals for the numberboards and tread on top of the nose to arrive. The yellow safety strips on the steps are a little messy, so I will touch them up before I seal the decals. My Gold Medal Models E/F-unit and generic grabiron kits are missing in my parts stash and I have no clue how to make the "ghetto grilles" over the windscreens. I can always add those details later.

[John]

Misadventures in the paint booth.

This is my first attempt to weather the silver roof of a boxcar, in this case the victim is a $6 NOS Roundhouse boxcar kit. I used an AK Interactive brown wash for the first pass, then burnt sienna and raw umber artist's oils for the rust. The oils need to dry before I can Dullcote it and knock down the shine, but so far I'm not sure I'm liking what I've done. The paint reminds me of food residue stuck to a pan more than real-life rust spots.



This is the article I was following. I'm guessing some of the techniques may not work in N scale like they do here in HO.
http://rrmodelcraftsman.com/weathering-an-ex-penn-central-conrail-boxcar/

I did try the zinc white oil paint on a M-T PC boxcar to fade it and it's coming out much better. No pictures since I can't touch it while it dries. I'll post it here or in next week's thread.

.

The roof looks very much overdone .. I would try to strip it down and start again .. I'm no weathering expert, but Tom Mann had some tutorials somewhere that might help .. maybe in the weathering section on here ..

[railnerd]

The roof looks very much overdone .. I would try to strip it down and start again .. I'm no weathering expert, but Tom Mann had some tutorials somewhere that might help .. maybe in the weathering section on here ..

No need to remove it all at once.

Hit it with mineral spirits (the "generic" version of the AK thinner) to pull some if not most of the paint off with a flat brush.

-Dave

[up1950s]

No need to remove it all at once.

Hit it with mineral spirits (the "generic" version of the AK thinner) to pull some if not most of the paint off with a flat brush.

-Dave

Maybe if he speckled the roof with specks of torn tape itty bitty size them shot the with BCR he would come up with a believable rust through spots of various hues and textures .

[diezmon]

I've been going through my rolling stock, modifying the more toy-like cars in the collection. 



I know some don't care for the Atlas couplers, but I have quite a few laying around and they seem to work fine. They're a tad big, but they're nice for body mounting since the box is short.



Rustoleum Dark Grey Primer(yeah, a little heavy here) 


Weights and weathering...


Now, to do something about these body heights. 

[Jim Starbuck]

Here’s another short clip from the Modutrak layout at RPM St Louis.
An Alco near the New Lisbon engine house.

[C855B]

Here’s another short clip from the Modutrak layout at RPM St Louis.
An Alco near the New Lisbon engine house.
...

A few of you here know that I'm not a fan of sound, but seeing/hearing that HH660 clatter away when I saw the layout at the meet - just idling when I was there - simply made me smile. Really nice effect, done well.

[Jim Starbuck]

A few of you here know that I'm not a fan of sound, but seeing/hearing that HH660 clatter away when I saw the layout at the meet - just idling when I was there - simply made me smile. Really nice effect, done well.

Thank you Mike.

It was nice to meet a few Railwire folks at the meet.
Great to put a face with the username!

Jim

[Sharky_McSharknose]

No need to remove it all at once.

Hit it with mineral spirits (the "generic" version of the AK thinner) to pull some if not most of the paint off with a flat brush.

-Dave

I used mineral spirits and a paper towel to wipe away some of the paint. I ran out of paper towels before I could finish, but the roof of this car is looking better.

[John]

I used mineral spirits and a paper towel to wipe away some of the paint. I ran out of paper towels before I could finish, but the roof of this car is looking better.

Yes ... !!!!

[mstl 246]

Here’s another short clip from the Modutrak layout at RPM St Louis.
An Alco near the New Lisbon engine house.

My brother and I attended the St. Louis RPM over the weekend too, it was nice to see the Modutrak layout in person and meet some Railwire members.

My photos are not the best to prove it though, one of the modules is pretty close to a layout idea I was thinking about so most of the photos I have are reference shots to help with planning  I should have planned this a little better.

I have been around more HO sound equipped locomotives and I didn't know what to expect from N scale sound in person. Between the videos John C. has shared and hearing the equipment Modutrak was running, I'm convinced. Now to start planning on how to upgrade my equipment.

Nat

[ednadolski]

I used mineral spirits and a paper towel to wipe away some of the paint. I ran out of paper towels before I could finish, but the roof of this car is looking better.

Much better!  Now you've made the paint work for you!  (Trying to hand-paint that kind of pattern would be very hard to do convincingly.)

Next step, take a fine-point brush and dab some darker color like burnt umber into the middle areas of the spots.  That will represent the 'older' parts of the rust and add a lot of depth.   Don't overdo (you can always add more) and try not to leave any hard edges.  Thinning the paint a bit will give you more control.

Ed

[jpwisc]

I finished up a little Clinchfield boom car project this weekend.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[Faire to Midland]

I have no clue how to make the "ghetto grilles" over the windscreens.

How about some photoetched HO roofwalk material?

[craigolio1]

Misadventures in the paint booth.

 no clue how to make the "ghetto grilles" over the windscreens. I can always add those details later.

For your ghetto grills try hash pipe screen. I bought some on eBay to sift sandblasting material. It comes in many sizes.  I used it as ghetto grills on my BC Hydro caboose. Super tight weave and totally see through. Very fine.

If you can’t find some PM me and I’ll mail you some.

Craig.