BLI facebook teaser

[cbroughton67]

Maybe some marketing genius simply copy/pasted the space from their H0 model?  I've seen this happen more than once (not to mention H0 model photos being used as stand-in for N scale).

That just occurred to me, since this are common HO rail sizes. You beat me to the punch!

[thomasjmdavis]

.... but to me one of the advantages of BLI doing the unit is that you'll likely see things like IHB, KCS, B&O (Pere Marquette Scheme), C&EI, ACL, SAL, B&O (Cumberland Shops), C&S, N&W (ex WAB Blue) besides the obligatory UP, ATSF and PRR….and they have factory sound.
Hopefully we'll see them next weekend at the N Scale Enthusiast Convention in Chicago!!
Charlie Vlk

Well, with the greatest ever preannounced for 6 months announcement from Rapido being a complete bust for me (they owe me like 25 billion pixels for all the space they have wasted on my screen with all the pre-announcement of the announcement bull...errr....insert polite word here), I am hoping something comes out of the show in Chicago.  I made the decision to NOT go, on the grounds it would leave me with more to spend on stuff, so I am hoping there is some stuff worth buying.

[Mark5]

The parts tooled can be used to represent NW2 Ph V and SW7 Ph I and Ph 2 units.   
I have lost track of the number of roadnames, paint schemes variations and road numbers offered on the BLI HO NW2 / SW7; but to me one of the advantages of BLI doing the unit is that you'll likely see things like IHB, KCS, B&O (Pere Marquette Scheme), C&EI, ACL, SAL, B&O (Cumberland Shops), C&S, N&W (ex WAB Blue) besides the obligatory UP, ATSF and PRR….

This ^ 

That and the Kato vers has an iffy 3 pole motor.

[sirenwerks]

Ooo, an NW2 with louvered hood doors. I wonder if that body will fit a Kato drive...

[Ike the BN Freak]

Ooo, an NW2 with louvered hood doors. I wonder if that body will fit a Kato drive...

The BLI will have a metal hood, so will have to isolate the hood from the drive

[Chris333]

Why would you want the worst switcher chassis ever under it?

[peteski]

Why would you want the worst switcher chassis ever under it?

Why does everybody hate the Kato NW2?
Yes, it has a small motor 3-pole motor but it has a skewed armature and very powerful rare-earth magnets. The same motor is used in the GS-4 (which is a large steam loco).  The only oddball thing I see about this model is the unusual drive train configuration, but I don't see anything inherently wrong with that.  I seem to recall that there was a problem with a spur gear slipping on the (motor?) shaft, but is that a widespread issue?

[Chris333]

It also runs fast, like all Kato locos. Just sayin' even a Bachmann chassis would be better.

[kiwi_bnsf]

I’m a huge fan of Kato mechanisms, and I’m even going to the effort of swapping Kato chassis under Intermountain SD45-2 shells, but the Kato NW2 chassis is not well designed.

I’m in the process of repairing one for a friend, and both the spur gear on the motor shaft and the idler spur gear on the universal shaft are prone to slipping. These issues crop up as soon as you exceed to NW2’s pulling capacity (less than 15 cars). Once they slip, then the chassis requires repair.

A quick google search shows many people experiencing the same issue, and Kato has no spares available

I’m currently experimenting with roughening the metal shafts with files, and then epoxying the gears. It remains to be seen whether this is a long term fix.

[Lemosteam]

I’m a huge fan of Kato mechanisms, and I’m even going to the effort of swapping Kato chassis under Intermountain SD45-2 shells, but the Kato NW2 chassis is not well designed.

I’m in the process of repairing one for a friend, and both the spur gear on the motor shaft and the idler spur gear on the universal shaft are prone to slipping. These issues crop up as soon as you exceed to NW2’s pulling capacity (less than 15 cars). Once they slip, then the chassis requires repair.

A quick google search shows many people experiencing the same issue, and Kato has no spares available

I’m currently experimenting with roughening the metal shafts with files, and then epoxying the gears. It remains to be seen whether this is a long term fix.

If roughing them up does not solve the issue, you may want to try filing a small axial groove into the shaft and the ID of the gear, aligning them when you epoxy so the epoxy becomes the "key" in the filed "keyways".  This would increase torque shear capability, but be careful on the gear not to introduce a sharp corner as a stress riser in the bottom of its groove or it could split.  A "U" shape groove would be best in the gear.

[kiwi_bnsf]

If roughing them up does not solve the issue, you may want to try filing a small axial groove into the shaft and the ID of the gear, aligning them when you epoxy so the epoxy becomes the "key" in the filed "keyways".  This would increase torque shear capability, but be careful on the gear not to introduce a sharp corner as a stress riser in the bottom of its groove or it could split.  A "U" shape groove would be best in the gear.

Thanks for the advice. I had read about “keying” a gear in this way, but looking at the tiny size of the gears involved, I think this is beyond my skill level!

[peteski]

Thanks for the advice. I had read about “keying” a gear in this way, but looking at the tiny size of the gears involved, I think this is beyond my skill level!

It doesn't have to be all that precise.  You could take a Dremel tool (I would use a cutoff tool as a grinding wheel) and grind a slight flat spot on the shaft's surface. Then roughen the inside of the hole in that gear. Even using a hobby knife blade to gently put some score lines perpendicular to the gear's side..  Then make sure the parts are grease-free, dunk them in a solvent like acetone, or naphtha.   Getting the parts absolutely grease and oil free is very important. Then using some CA glue or Loctite, slide the gear back onto the shaft.  That should hold the gear in place.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

I’m a huge fan of Kato mechanisms, and I’m even going to the effort of swapping Kato chassis under Intermountain SD45-2 shells, but the Kato NW2 chassis is not well designed.

I’m in the process of repairing one for a friend, and both the spur gear on the motor shaft and the idler spur gear on the universal shaft are prone to slipping. These issues crop up as soon as you exceed to NW2’s pulling capacity (less than 15 cars). Once they slip, then the chassis requires repair.

A quick google search shows many people experiencing the same issue, and Kato has no spares available

I’m currently experimenting with roughening the metal shafts with files, and then epoxying the gears. It remains to be seen whether this is a long term fix.

Use thread locker first. You won't have balance problems associated with keying the shaft or gears.

[MK]

If the gears are plastic or a plastic derivative, use CA and not Loctite.  Loctite will eventually weaken the plastic.

[kiwi_bnsf]

Unfortunately CA already failed — that's why I'm using epoxy.

It's already curing, but if it fails again, I will try the "keying" option.

Thanks for all the excellent tips!

Apologies for the thread drift.