Weekend Update 5/5/19

[peteski]

Folks. I have been modifying a Minitrix class 6500 Electric that was brought to the US for testing in the '70's (aka, "The French Fry") as Amtrak #996. It was sent back and "The Swedish Meatball" won the contract. It would have been interesting: 6 axles, 8000 hp. Did not like the track on the NE corridor at the time, despite being quite successful in France. It looks like a mask from Japanese Kabuki theatre: The oval headlight covers were fashioned with brass tube made into a punch after sharpening, and bending into a oval. Still have to do the pilot/cowcatcher.


I had a short video of the Bachmann TGV I repowered, but looks like the file size is too big.

While it doesn't look like much right now, once it is painted I'm sure it will look great. 
I seem to recall that someone else (maybe Bryan Bussey?) was either thinking or started building a Swedish Meatball loco using one of the N scale European locos.

Actually, as it looks like now, it reminds me of the camouflaged (to obfuscate their body shape) prototype cars automobile companies test on the streets .

[Jim Starbuck]

My Alco HH660 project is taking shape.
The hood is scratch built from styrene and ready to start adding doors and details. The cab isn’t fully latched down in the photo. The cab and hood will get glued together after I cut the intake grills into the sides.
It runs very well and sounds good. I’m really liking the Alco sound file.

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[Chris333]

Dang that hood is smooth.

[Cajonpassfan]

[ Guests cannot view attachments ] Jim, forgive me if I missed it earlier, but what are you using for the short chassis?
That's a great project, you should use your scratchbuilt shell as a master and cast copies (one for me; I could use a high top switcher just like this )
Dig that guy riding the footboard...
Otto K.

[GhengisKong]

Jim, forgive me if I missed it earlier, but what are you using for the short chassis?
That's a great project, you should use your scratchbuilt shell as a master and cast copies (one for me; I could use a high top switcher just like this )
Otto K.

I'd buy a resin copy...

[Jim Starbuck]

Jim, forgive me if I missed it earlier, but what are you using for the short chassis?
That's a great project, you should use your scratchbuilt shell as a master and cast copies (one for me; I could use a high top switcher just like this )
Dig that guy riding the footboard...
Otto K.

Thanks Otto,

The mechanism is a shortened Atlas S2 with a Bachmann motor, motor holder and worms from their S4.
The Atlas S2 isn’t a standard split frame design. The sill is cast metal with plastic clips that hold the stock motor and lends itself well to this conversion although with significant milling to drop the motor low enough to engage the truck gears and milling it into two pieces to shorten it.
Along with the modified chassis, the new model uses Atlas S2 Blunt trucks, cab with glazing, pilots, railings and a few assorted details.
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It has a Loksound Select Micro, a Soberton 8x12 speaker and a bank of (4) 220uf capacitors in the cab.
I didn’t really build the hood with casting it in mind. It has an internal rib that would make it difficult to remove from the mold. I’m going to build another one of these and do the hood differently so we’ll see...Perhaps casting might be a possibility. I need to talk to a friend to see if it’s feasible.

Jim

[w neal]

They say when the weather gets nice, train season is over. Meh.

Funny. With it being 70 degrees and sunny, I get motivated to hang out in the garage working on my new portable layout. Spring time and young men's thoughts turn to layout building. 

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Well, I suffered a big fail when trying to install a Loksound Select Direct into an Atlas B23-7. One that may cost me an expensive decoder. 

I am following the instructions from here: https://www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?threads/my-first-esu-loksound-install.120015/. It looks like this gentleman was able to install the decoder without having to do any cutting of the frame. However, when I tried...




There is a tiny cylindrical component (resistor?) that is supposed to go on the solder pads that I circled. I think it got knocked loose when I tightened the frame halves. Unfortunately, I did not notice it came loose until I tried using my LokProgrammer to check for new firmware. I heard about two or three irregular beep noises coming from the before I could cancel it.  I did not see or smell any smoke and I was able to recover the resistor. My hope is that I can solder it back in place and the decoder will still be salvageable. In any case, I will need to break out the Dremel and do a little trimming.

That was my install, and yes, you need to file the small lip at the top of the frame. I don't think I mentioned any frame modifications in the post, but these boards ALWAYS require some work to get them in properly. I'll add that to my post.

[Cajonpassfan]

Thanks Otto,

The mechanism is a shortened Atlas S2 with a Bachmann motor, motor holder and worms from their S4.
The Atlas S2 isn’t a standard split frame design. The sill is cast metal with plastic clips that hold the stock motor and lends itself well to this conversion although with significant milling to drop the motor low enough to engage the truck gears and milling it into two pieces to shorten it.
Along with the modified chassis, the new model uses Atlas S2 Blunt trucks, cab with glazing, pilots, railings and a few assorted details.

It has a Loksound Select Micro, a Soberton 8x12 speaker and a bank of (4) 220uf capacitors in the cab.
I didn’t really build the hood with casting it in mind. It has an internal rib that would make it difficult to remove from the mold. I’m going to build another one of these and do the hood differently so we’ll see...Perhaps casting might be a possibility. I need to talk to a friend to see if it’s feasible.

Jim

Wow Jim, that's even more impressive then I anticipated! Thank you for the detailed response.
And I was partly joking about the casting, but yea, if you ever do decide to make one, I'll be interested. Definitely.
Nice work!
Otto

[mark dance]

...and a bank of (4) 220uf capacitors in the cab.
Jim

wow...very nice.   @Jim Starbuck  would you be able to provide your source for the capacitors?  Do they just go in parallel across the motor leads?

md

[Point353]

would you be able to provide your source for the capacitors? 

https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/TCN4227M025R0100

[Jim Starbuck]

wow...very nice.   @Jim Starbuck  would you be able to provide your source for the capacitors?  Do they just go in parallel across the motor leads?

md

Mark,

These caps came from a seller on EBay. I just did a search for 16v 220uf capacitors. Although I have not ordered from them I’m sure the Mouser link above is very good.
Some people recommended using 20v caps as 16v runs too close to operating voltage for comfort. I have not experienced a failure with the 16v however have heard that it’s rather violent if they go.
As far as wiring to the Loksound 73800: yes they are wired in parallel (pos to pos & neg to neg) with the blue common positive wire going to the positive end on the caps identified by the stripe. A negative wire from the other end of the caps needs to be soldered to the negative pad on the decoder which is on the opposite side of the board where the blue wire is attatched. Just clip the shrink wrap back a bit to solder the negative wire on.
I pick up the positive side of the LED lighting anywhere along the positive side of the cap bank that’s convenient.

Jim

[craigolio1]

I recently ordered 330uf and  470uf 16v caps from eBay. They come in an E type package size which is the same length and width as the 220uf D type package and only 1.2mm taller.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/181684088864

Craig.

[mark dance]

thx Jim, Craig and "Pointy"!

md

[JanesCustomTrain]

milling it into two pieces to shorten it
Jim

What did you use to put the two parts back together ? Did you just glue them back together ?

Jane