Making a MA&PA Bobber

[narrowminded]

My 1941 Model Railroader Cyclopedia has drawings of a PRR N5D in it if anybody cares.   PM me, I'll supply a scan.  It has a scale on it.

It's always a crapshoot on finding drawings, bingo.

Thanks Randy.  I found this online.  https://img.geocaching.com/track/large/fb7e2ae6-8eff-459f-b8cf-b0fd18027327.jpg

There is no frame or undercarriage detail but with the major dimensions the rest could probably be filled in from a good picture.   Still, nothing like a good drawing.

If that's it there's no need to send another.  If not or if you have a better one, I will PM you and we can go from there.  Thanks.

[Chris333]

https://grw.trains.com/how-to/full-size-drawings/2012/12/ma--pa-standard-gauge-bobber-in-1-29-scale

[randgust]

I sent Mark and Ed the drawings I found, which are differently proportioned than those and look more like an N6D to me than a generic bobber.

There were a lot of those in PA.  The preserved ones I'm aware of is the restored one on Strasburg, the parts pile at RRMPA, a museum quality Lehigh Valley one in the RRMPA, the Huntington & Broad Top Mountain ex-PRR N6D at RRMPA, the ex-Ma&Pa out at Canonsburg, and the one that was in Dallas and now is semi-restored and at the Western NY Railway Museum site in Buffalo, with the cupola off.  Digging will find you more.

The LVRR one at RRMPA looks very much like the typical train-set bobber, a little shorter and higher than the N6. 

[chicken45]

I do like your approach.  I think if you use a steel square and some sandpaper to really true up those cuts, you should be able to hide the seam right down in a joint between the siding so it won't show without too much trouble.


The Quality Craft N6 kits are terrific.  I still have one I built years ago.   They are much MUCH easier to build than the brass Quality Craft N5c kits.  I'd highly recommend going that way if you find one.  And if you put it on the new Shapeways frame with nice wheelsets, it would be killer.

@mmagliaro were these the kits you gave me?

[narrowminded]

I sent Mark and Ed the drawings I found, which are differently proportioned than those and look more like an N6D to me than a generic bobber.

There were a lot of those in PA.  The preserved ones I'm aware of is the restored one on Strasburg, the parts pile at RRMPA, a museum quality Lehigh Valley one in the RRMPA, the Huntington & Broad Top Mountain ex-PRR N6D at RRMPA, the ex-Ma&Pa out at Canonsburg, and the one that was in Dallas and now is semi-restored and at the Western NY Railway Museum site in Buffalo, with the cupola off.  Digging will find you more.

The LVRR one at RRMPA looks very much like the typical train-set bobber, a little shorter and higher than the N6.

Got it.  Thanks Randy.

To all, is 3D printing this something that should be pursued?   I could probably make use of one or two in the future. 

That combination passenger, baggage, and caboose looks interesting.   

[mmagliaro]

@mmagliaro were these the kits you gave me?

Those were the brass N5c kits - which makes beautiful cabooses, but are difficult to assemble.

The Gloor Craft  PRR N6b is the shorter, wood-sided that can actually be built as an N6, an ND, or a few other variants.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Ok, so after some work it's all over except for the body filler...

The car is looking closer to a PRR NC instead of an ND. Which is actually ok because the MPA had one of those too.

I'm not sure if it's THAT big of an improvement over the Bachmann car, but she is mine.

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[CRL]

I thought Sylvania made TV sets. I didn’t know they ran a railroad also.

[mmagliaro]

Sure it's better, Ed!  Hands-down much finer detail in the siding and window frames than the Bachmann or Arnold models.
Can you reuse the end platform railings and brakewheel from the MT caboose? 

The only thing that I'm worried about is that joint in the siding seam on the side.  It looks a little wavy, and will probably show through paint the way it is.  Did you try sanding those mating edges against a flat block with very fine sandpaper on it to get them really square?

But between the nicer MT car body siding and roof, and the 3D cupola and undercarriage, this looks far better than the commercial bobbers.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Sure it's better, Ed!  Hands-down much finer detail in the siding and window frames than the Bachmann or Arnold models.
Can you reuse the end platform railings and brakewheel from the MT caboose? 

That's the plan. This car didn't actually have them (I got it secondhand) but I'll grab some from MTL.

The only thing that I'm worried about is that joint in the siding seam on the side.  It looks a little wavy, and will probably show through paint the way it is.  Did you try sanding those mating edges against a flat block with very fine sandpaper on it to get them really square?

I think it's a bit misleading. That's the reason I still need to do some filling and sanding. I think it'll be ok when I'm done. I hope.

But between the nicer MT car body siding and roof, and the 3D cupola and undercarriage, this looks far better than the commercial bobbers.

I totally agree. I was a little worried there but I think it's coming together. If the bondo trick works I'm gonna cast it so I can crank out some more for my dad and I.

[mmagliaro]

Tough call whether it looks more like an NC vs an ND.   Looking at drawings, the ND was about 3' longer.  So, how long is your body?  If it's about 21', it's more like an ND.  If it's closer to 18', then it's more like an NC.  I think the cupola is fine for either.
The windows are going to be a little high for either because they were placed for an MT caboose, so not much point worrying about that.

[chicken45]

Ed, I would recommend getting a NWSL True Sander since you've entered the splicing game.

Don't approach it with the "I can putty that up later" mindset. Instead, "These edges are square and meet perfectly and I can use thin CA or Tamiya liquid cement and be done."

[nickelplate759]

Ed, I would recommend getting a NWSL True Sander since you've entered the splicing game.

Don't approach it with the "I can putty that up later" mindset. Instead, "These edges are square and meet perfectly and I can use thin CA or Tamiya liquid cement and be done."

But -- since this time around you are likely going to need to putty - here's a trick.  Try putting a thin bead of putty along the joint edge before you glue them together.  A little should squeeze out, and then you can carve it away while it is still softer than the plastic side.

[DKS]

But -- since this time around you are likely going to need to putty - here's a trick.  Try putting a thin bead of putty along the joint edge before you glue them together.  A little should squeeze out, and then you can carve it away while it is still softer than the plastic side.

That putty will start setting before you finish applying the bead, and be almost dry by the time you press the parts together...

[davefoxx]

My vote is to get the roof and the trim work under the eaves lined up and perfect.  Then, cut the sides out, saving the ends of the caboose.   Scratchbuild the sides out of styrene freight car siding and cut out and reuse the windows, placing them where they match your prototype the best.  I don't think you'll ever hide that seam in the siding.  You can disguise the seams easier in the corners.

DFF