What is your wish list for train room electrical items?

[C855B]

DCC... Well, I've been led to believe that at least Digitrax control stations and boosters have a shutdown and startup sequence, including putting the control station in and out of "sleep" mode in the middle. Could be something like the control station losing settings between sessions rather than anything "fatal".

[peteski]

Yeah, what Mike was worried about are personal computers (or any other computing devices) which need some sort of user-initiated "clean" shutdown sequence.  DCC equipment does not have such need. You will notice that there is no recommended proper and clean shutdown procedure mentioned in your DCC system's manual, or even any mention of how to cleanly power the system off.  Just pulling the plug will not be detrimental to this type of equipment.

[MK]

Slightly off topic if I may...I could use a little electrical enlightenment.
I have a 5 amp NCE system that I wired, per instructions, with two On/Off switches; one between outlet and transformer/power supply and second between power supply and base station/booster. Over the years I got into the habit of just using the first switch and leaving the second one on, essentially having a master DCC switch. I never experienced any issues, but reading this thread and comments about "the rug being pulled out from under DCC", am I at risk of damaging the system by not shutting off the low voltage input first?
Thanks,
Otto K.

You should be fine.  That second switch really serves no purpose.

[Cajonpassfan]

You should be fine.  That second switch really serves no purpose.

Thanks guys, that's what I believe also, but thought I better ask the experts
Otto

[Santa Fe Guy]

In my last RR room (outside shed) that housed the SFRSD all power was through a separate Circuit Breaker that shut off all power to it. I Like most I guess always turned off all of the power plugs that fed the DCC system along with all of the BDL;s for signalling etc before killing the CB. I also shut down the computer that controlled the dispatchers desk and JMRI in the normal way. To remind me if the CB was not killed I had a small radio that was playing softly all the time so if it was on as I was locking the door guess what.
Our layouts mean too much to us to take short cuts with power.
Rod.

[Rivet Miscounter]

I would add...
-I would have outlets at "TV Height", along with Cat6/Cable drops.  Either for just general TV watching while working, or for displays for ops, or both.
-I would have the lower outlets at a higher level, just below the lowest benchwork.   Just to keep things looking clean.
-I would also Cat6 throughout the room/house.

[peteski]

I think that hardwired Ethernet is out - everything is WiFi nowadays.

[CodyO]

I think that hardwired Ethernet is out - everything is WiFi nowadays.

Good thing about running cable is you can take some bandwidth load off of your Wi-Fi.

I Personally still like to hardwire what I can.

[Rivet Miscounter]

Good thing about running cable is you can take some bandwidth load off of your Wi-Fi.

I Personally still like to hardwire what I can.

This.

IoT adds dozens upon dozens of connections to your router.  It will be hundreds before long, especially when talking security systems, etc.   Even with whole-home, you can load up your wireless network real fast, especially with streaming multiple devices. (and potentially multiple streams per device)

[MK]

This....

Good thing about running cable is you can take some bandwidth load off of your Wi-Fi.

I Personally still like to hardwire what I can.

And this...

This.

IoT adds dozens upon dozens of connections to your router.  It will be hundreds before long, especially when talking security systems, etc.   Even with whole-home, you can load up your wireless network real fast, especially with streaming multiple devices. (and potentially multiple streams per device)

Especially with 5 GHz transmission.  The distance and penetration is lousy!  Then you have to start placing WiFi extenders everywhere or buy expensive mesh routers.

[NtheBasement]

I've often wished that I had outlets that were shut off from a wall switch by the train room's door.  In old houses without ceiling fixtures the upper socket in each outlet is switched for plugging in lamps, lower one is permanent.  But... if you think you'll ever add night time lighting to the layout, you need the overhead lights on a switch separate from the outlet switch.

I don't think my train room eats much amperage; a 5 amp booster at 17v is less than an amp at the 115v wall outlet.  And I don't have a problem killing the power to my DCC; it's not like its saving to disk or anything.

The overhead lighting is way more of a wiring issue than the wall outlets.  Ceiling outlets would have been handy in my case.  Also if you have drop ceiling troffers, skip the egg crate diffusers as they allow dust to drop down from the floor above.

[MK]

Get voice controlled switches.  "Hey Alexa (or Google) turn off DCC."  "Hey Alexa (or Google) turn off train lights." 

[peteski]

Get voice controlled switches.  "Hey Alexa (or Google) turn off DCC."  "Hey Alexa (or Google) turn off train lights." 

  (Yeah, I know you're joking. Or are you?) 

"Sorry, there is a problem with service provider (so I cannot turn your damn device off)".  My GF has these types of (intermittent) problems with her "digital house".   

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Get voice controlled switches.  "Hey Alexa (or Google) turn off DCC."  "Hey Alexa (or Google) turn off train lights." 

I did that. It was fun.

Although I only ran the main layout lighting and DCC circuit through smart outlet adapters.

There is some possibility for Alexa layout control ("Alexa, throw switch 23" is awfully appealing when you're used to the shitty UX of throwing switches on a DT400).

[Point353]

There is some possibility for Alexa layout control ("Alexa, throw switch 23" is awfully appealing when you're used to the shitty UX of throwing switches on a DT400).

Sorry, I do not understand "throw switch 23". Did you mean to say throw turnout 23?