BLI USRA 2-8-2

[jdcolombo]

I still say that there should be no reason for any manufacturer to produce a new model with non-see-through spoked drivers.  The wheels look like they belong on a child's toy, not on a otherwise well-detailed N scale model.  Come on BLI!

I agree.  BUT . . . this is the only modern USRA light Mike we have (the MRC/MP unit just isn't competitive in detail or design).  It runs superbly, pulls very, very well (actually, pulls superbly for its size; better than the Kato Mike even when you put in the traction tire driver).  Hobbled a bit by the proprietary Paragon 3 decoder, but I've fixed that by ripping it out and installing an ESU LokSound, and that's only because I'm the anal sort on stuff like keeping the headlight on when the engine is in reverse.  For most people, the stock decoder and speaker will be absolutely fine.

At the end of the day, I love mine.  I've assigned them to local duty on the NKP, where so far they have exceeded my high expectations.  See-through spokes certainly would be nice, and certainly SHOULD be done.  But given the performance and overall detail, I don't care.

John C.

[CodyO]

@jdcolombo agree ill take a minor trade off for great performance and its really the only 21st century option for a Mikado.

I'm hoping they'll do the pennsy L1. Hopefully 2 runs have given them the return on investment to tool the L1 Boiler shell and tender. I'd imagine thats the cheaper part of a model.

[jdcolombo]

FWIW -

Both of my NKP units from this new run had issues with the traction tires.  In both cases, the tires were causing rear-end wobble.  I think the tires are too loose around the 4th driver.  They don't sit tightly enough in the groove, and I think that's causing the wobble.  BLI supplies a set of replacement tires, but to do the replacement you'll have to remove the screw holding the rod to the 4th driver, and that is a tiny hex screw - probably a 1.5 or 2mm.  And I don't really know if replacing the tires with the set provided will fix the issue, since in my case I just cut them off and used my double-sided tape technique to replace them.  I also added tape to the 3d driver set, since that set is geared (the 4th driver set isn't, and I worry some about stress on the rod holding screw when the traction tire is only rod-driven, instead of gear driven).

Happy to report that with this change, not only do both of my units no longer wobble, but they each will now pull 30 of my weighted freight cars - only a couple of cars less than my tape-traction-tire equipped LL Berks.

I didn't have the wobble issue with the two undecs I ordered from the first run, BTW.  So I'm wondering if somewhere along the way they got a bad set of traction tires.  Interested in whether anyone else sees this issue (aside from George, who may have a similar problem with his NKP unit).

John C.

[prr7161]

I didn't have the wobble issue with the two undecs I ordered from the first run, BTW.  So I'm wondering if somewhere along the way they got a bad set of traction tires.  Interested in whether anyone else sees this issue (aside from George, who may have a similar problem with his NKP unit).

I may be seeing some of this as well with my undec heavy.  I've only run it on DC so far to test some recently handlaid track; to run it down I need to do a little more testing on DCC on a loop.

[glakedylan]

OK...anyone able to comment on a comparison/contrast regarding
Kato v. BLI on just the drive train and its quality?


will the BLI become a kitbash offering rather than the Kato for a PRR shell?


or, if anyone knows whether there is any likeness between the two in terms of size and space needed
for the shell to fit over all the guts?


just wondering...


Gary

[reinhardtjh]

OK...anyone able to comment on a comparison/contrast regarding
Kato v. BLI on just the drive train and its quality?

will the BLI become a kitbash offering rather than the Kato for a PRR shell?

or, if anyone knows whether there is any likeness between the two in terms of size and space needed
for the shell to fit over all the guts?

Gary

I just ordered one to measure for the possibility of kitbashing uses.  Since they are models of the same prototype I would expect the drive train measurements to be close. I doubt they will be identical though.  Curious as to the size of the internal mechanism and what can fit over it without to much machining.

Also curious for an in person comparison of the Kato vs BLI mech to see which looks better.

[peteski]

I just ordered one to measure for the possibility of kitbashing uses.  Since they are models of the same prototype I would expect the drive train measurements to be close. I doubt they will be identical though.  Curious as to the size of the internal mechanism and what can fit over it without to much machining.

Also curious for an in person comparison of the Kato vs BLI mech to see which looks better.

There are some photos of the mechanism on Spookshow's website.  It sure isn't a Kato. 

http://spookshow.net/loco/bli282.html





As usual, a bit heavy on the lubrication, and I don't like that the TT-equipped driver is not geared, but driven by siderods,.

[SkipGear]

It looks like they scaled down their HO mechanism. The only difference is the added gearing for both #2 and #3 drivers because the motor is too long to go just to driver #3. The HO is only geared to driver #3, everything else is side rod driven.

[Jbub]

There are some photos of the mechanism on Spookshow's website.  It sure isn't a Kato. 

http://spookshow.net/loco/bli282.html





As usual, a bit heavy on the lubrication, and I don't like that the TT-equipped driver is not geared, but driven by siderods,.

Just because it's not Kato engineered doesn't mean it's bad. Remember this thing out pulls Kato's mike by a lot, even with the TT on the wrong driver.

[peteski]

Just because it's not Kato engineered doesn't mean it's bad. Remember this thing out pulls Kato's mike by a lot, even with the TT on the wrong driver.

It is not on a wrong driver - it is just not an optimal design.  N scale crankpins and siderods are rather delicate, and since this driver will be doing most of the work, they will likely suffer heavy wear.

I'm not saying that the design is bad - it's just not a Kato. 

[glakedylan]

I just ordered one to measure for the possibility of kitbashing uses...Also curious for an in person comparison of the Kato vs BLI mech to see which looks better.

John, excellent. I am looking forward to your report.
Thanks for you effort and investment in order to find the answers.


sincerely
Gary

[mike_lawyer]

For the life of me, I can't figure out why manufactures continue to manufacture locos with traction tires NOT on geared drivers.  It makes for a much more robust design.  It is why I really like the Kato Mike for kitbashes.

[Cajonpassfan]

Bump!
I just bought another one, a light this time, in hopes of kitbash fodder. The three I own are sweet runners, and I couldn’t resist the price, under $190 at Factory Direct. So I thought I should share the happy news here, in case any of my Railwire friends are interested.
If so, hurry, sale ends tomorrow and the undecs are gone already....
Otto K.

[reinhardtjh]

And if you're willing to try a refurbished, then BLI has both light and heavy for $179.99 in a "Black Friday" sale.

[eric220]

Plus hopefully they`ll make an L1.

Could always do an L2.  Almost...

https://www.broadway-limited.com/5980usralightmikadoprr9627paragon3sounddcdccn.aspx