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So which chassis did you use.
Glad to see somebody else try this, as it's the only sure permanent cure for white gear disease.This is also 'more or less' the same approach Lee Weldon and I did to repower the Bachmann Metroliner.But if you're really running one hard and often, the first thing to go is going to be that Tomytec motor. The ONLY motors I've ever had fail in N have been those, all due to brush wear due to heavy use; usual symptoms are random slowing and speeding up as carbon begins to short out the commutator plates and burn off. You can usually fit an Atlas motor in there just as well if you can pry the old universals out of the flywheels on the Tomytec (not easy but can be done). Mine doesn't get enough use to be an issue.
But if you're really running one hard and often, the first thing to go is going to be that Tomytec motor. The ONLY motors I've ever had fail in N have been those, all due to brush wear due to heavy use; usual symptoms are random slowing and speeding up as carbon begins to short out the commutator plates and burn off. \
Are you sure those use carbon brushes? In my experience sealed motors of that size with non-replaceable brushes use simple metal-finger brushes which can wear out quickly. I guess the bottom line is that the composition of the brushes is irrelevant - the important fact is that they wear out rather quickly.These motors look like some of the inexpensive motors available on eBay. It might be possible to just buy some inexpensive spares.
Oops. Delete at will.
I can't delete posts here (and I wouldn't anyway). I was simply wondering if Randy took the motor apart and saw carbon brushes. In my experience that is not the case, but there could be exceptions.
OMG. That wasn't about your post at all. I was going to add something to your thoughts but decided it didn't really add, was too in the weeds, so instead of deleting I hit enter with no post added. That was what I meant, delete my post. Yours was fine.