Anycubic Photon

[peteski]

@peteski, I think you missed my point.  In the old days a TV had H an V adjustments to fill the picture tube properly. I am not referring to resolution, I am referring to which row of "pixels" (this is DLP after all hence the quotation marks) the screen puts a straight line in.  Adjustment could move the line to the next pixel "row" effectively moving the printed wall.

I'm just still learning here (from people like you and others in this thread).    I'm following all of this with interest and occasionally asking questions.
I suspect it is the slicer (not the printer itself) messing up the dimensions.  But this is just my very slightly educated guess.

[narrowminded]

I'm just still learning here (from people like you and others in this thread).    I'm following all of this with interest and occasionally asking questions.
I suspect it is the slicer (not the printer itself) messing up the dimensions.  But this is just my very slightly educated guess.

I don't know that but there is a primary adjustment that applies a system change to x, y, or z, individually adjustable for each axis.  That would be used if there was a consistent error in any of the planes.  Then there's the slicer adjustment, also individually applicable to any axis, that I suspect are intended to be used if you were wanting to scale down your currently loaded print, example N to Z, or to make an on the fly adjustment to a print that did not print to spec, for whatever reason although I guess it could be used individually on every print for a consistent printer error.  I don't know why you would do that but I guess it could be done.  I think that different resins may cure at slightly different dimensions (speculation, not known) you could keep a set of factors to input when printing that particular resin.  And this change is done by the computer that is deciding which pixels to light or not light based on what the drawing calls for.  In a way, it knows nor cares what you're making, it just lights pixels to the parameters input from the drawing and further refined, more or less, by factors input by the operator.  The screen has a defined resolution physically limited by the space between the pixels (that's pretty good and talk of better in the works) and the computer does the rest.  And finally, the duration of the curing light on time will likely have some bearing.  I've just used the factory settings and recommendations for the few I did and the quality of appearance is good, the material is way more forgiving while handling than the FUD material, and the part dimensions are amazingly consistant.  I can definitely work with that list of features for a LOT of parts. Maybe not the beginning and the end for all but definitely a LOT.

These are all things that need to be learned and in most instances where .003" or so doesn't matter, you won't care about it.  When it DOES matter, check your notes (you did make some notes, didn't you?) and adjust accordingly if it's even needed.  That's the way I envision this flushing out.  For most of my needs I expect holding .003" will be quite excellent and I envision that or better will be easily accomplished without special jumping through hoops.  And if that proves wrong, I'll take the extra minute and pick through my color coded hoops for the one I need.   Meanwhile, so far so good.

[Mike C]

 @Chriss333  That boxcar really looks great !  Would you be open to doing a HOn3/30 D&RGW short caboose ?.....Mike

[Chris333]

No one makes a short caboose kit?


Since making my "good" boxcar I can't get another one. I keep getting lines on one side. And if I take the very file that got my good one and place 2 of them side-by-side I get triangles that join from one body to the other.

The boxcar unlike the ore car was drawn from the start as a whole body so there is no problems with parts over lapping.

I'm giving up on printing boxcars to sell. I'm just wasting resin.

[narrowminded]

No one makes a short caboose kit?


Since making my "good" boxcar I can't get another one. I keep getting lines on one side. And if I take the very file that got my good one and place 2 of them side-by-side I get triangles that join from one body to the other.

The boxcar unlike the ore car was drawn from the start as a whole body so there is no problems with parts over lapping.

I'm giving up on printing boxcars to sell. I'm just wasting resin.

Are you still using Sketchup?  I haven't seen the triangles you're talking about other than in your post pictures.  But it has me wondering for the future.

[Chris333]

This is an example. There are gondolas, 2 files side by side and then sliced. See how it connects both files:


I later fixed this and got it to print, but I can't find what's wrong with the boxcar.

[narrowminded]

This is an example. There are gondolas, 2 files side by side and then sliced. See how it connects both files:

I later fixed this and got it to print, but I can't find what's wrong with the boxcar.

I'm just relaying what might be difference but even if it does matter, I don't know why.  I did a batch of the hopper and the chassis.  One made twelve and the other, 10.  I sliced one and then used copy which, to my surprise, also placed them, gapped and ready to go.  That was just the standard slicer that came with the machine.  I wonder if, with the way that was worded, placing two drawings and then slicing them together and if that's what you actually did, if it somehow merged the two drawings or just parts of them?  That triangle suggests that it may have.

[Chris333]

The one that came out perfect just happened to be grouped with a bunch of other files so I doubt that alone in the problem.

[Chris333]

Here is another one. I put a single boxcar in the slicer and it looked fine. So I put 2 bodies side-by-side and got this:

[AlwaysSolutions]

Just a stab in the dark - have you to tried to rotate the copy 180 degrees, or shift them so they're not perfectly aligned side-by-side?  I've had some unexplained funky results with the slicer that were resolved by adjusting the objects (in my case I had to rotate them 1 degree on the z axis - no good reason why, it just worked in my case)

[Chris333]

The gondolas were staggered, but I don't want to rotate or the screen resolution will give stepping down the sides.

[peteski]

The gondolas were staggered, but I don't want to rotate or the screen resolution will give stepping down the sides.

How about trying to rotate just to see if the problem goes away?  Nobody says you have to go through with printing.

[Mark W]

...I don't want to rotate or the screen resolution will give stepping down the sides.

Do it.  You'll be amazed...


https://i.imgur.com/oLBrZAa.jpg

[narrowminded]

Do it.  You'll be amazed...

Have you settled on any rules of thumb when choosing a print angle?   And while we're at it, any other time settings other than those already posted?

[Chris333]

OK so I tried it. 2 boxcar bodies side by side, but offset. And each of them was spun 1 degree. One +1 degree, the other -1 degree.

You can see the stepping that would happen.

But then I found this: