Z SHORTY adaptations

[up1950s]

At times narrow gauge trucks were put on standard gauge bodies . This use of a shortened Atlas Davenport will probably be the easiest and cheapest way to having a Nn3 powered ( low ) unit . I have just started this today on an old unit that was in a ( lot ) Ebay buy from years ago . By taking out the big window the Z Shorty fits fairly well , and to me looks passable ( my bar is lower than everybodys ) . The shell is just plopped on and that's half the battle , it fits with enough space to adjust and mount , and plenty of attic space for lighting , etc .

















Sorry , these were cellphone shots , but good enough to get the idea out .

[Chris333]

Wow you shortened an already short loco and put it on a shorty.

[nkalanaga]

I wonder if a MT Z F-unit would fit the original body?

[randgust]

I think I've figured out a way to use that chassis under my Climax A kits (13 and 18 ton) to do Nn3 logging locos, but I have to design a new adapter frame.   I'm trying to determine if anybody but me is interested in this.

I put this note over on the product side and got nothing but crickets.    I may do it anyway but it would be nice to have at least some interest as I've been bugged before about finding some way to use the kits for Nn3.

[up1950s]

I think I've figured out a way to use that chassis under my Climax A kits (13 and 18 ton) to do Nn3 logging locos, but I have to design a new adapter frame.   I'm trying to determine if anybody but me is interested in this.

I put this note over on the product side and got nothing but crickets.    I may do it anyway but it would be nice to have at least some interest as I've been bugged before about finding some way to use the kits for Nn3.

I am , show us please .

I have sidelined the Davenport while I bash further apart a Z Shorty chassis to spread the trucks about 1/4" further to fit that New Zealand DS Critter I mentioned elsewhere . What a PIA . To hit the shell the cover had to go , The rest of the chassis had to be trimmed down as much as possible . The front and rear are then at different elevations and after dividing the front from the rear each needs different height shims , then butt fitted with the extensions . That's where I am at this point . More needed in this area and being that the motor will be at about 1/3 the angle as OEM means more inventiveness as to getting around the motor and allowing the rear truck PCB to be still removable in its new hold down setup . I plan on doing 3 more , with hopes the rest will have square corners , and no more do-over steps .

https://www.shapeways.com/product/XKBKBYHFN/ds-locomotive-new-zealand-n-scale-1-160?optionId=41211985&li=marketplace

[randgust]

I'm right where you're at.   

I'm debating whether I want to fabricate an entirely new frame master that takes the trucks and motor, or develop a 'splice' plate like I did for the 11-105 kato to do the GE 70-tonner to lengthen out the wheelbase of the existing frame parts.
I'm kind of leaning toward the new frame, because what I'd really want to do is figure out how to mount the gearhead drives.   The worm is angled down into the truck, which can be adapted with a universal, but that tiny gearhead is just so sweet on these there's no comparison. The motor you want to use now is the Solarbotics GM15A, which is easier to work with than the GM15 was.    Not as difficult to drill out the shaft end to mount a universal female coupler on.
https://solarbotics.com/product/gm15a/

Another odd thing is that the rear truck pickup has no 'springs', just hits on the contact plate above it, and that's a recipe for failure.  I'd want to redesign that somehow.   There are pickup ears on the truck itself.

Given that the front truck pins on, and the rear truck screws on, there's not a whole lot to that frame.   If I can figure out worm alignment....

I haven't pulled the worm for fear of damaging the shaft, but it looks like it can be removed as it is end-drilled.

This would really be a winner if I can design-in a gearhead.   The end-to-end includes a lot of shaft distance on the 11-105 chassis.

[up1950s]

I have the frame done . I think I will skirt the diesel to hide the frame edge . I haven't devised a frame to shell mounting yet , nor the 3 wires per side connection . I need to separate all 6 wires for disassembly without having to do soldering . This is one of my many gripes , no nano single pin and socket connectors . Most of the smallest paired ones can't be un-conjoined , and are held together so tightly that the chance of not ripping out the wires at either end is too high of a risk . I really don't want to solder 1 wire to a brass tube , and the other 2 wires to two brass rods . They should have un-insulated single socket and pin . The used can be responsible to insulate as desired or not to keep it as small as needed . I will go to my grave before they make these .

[160pennsy]

I think I've figured out a way to use that chassis under my Climax A kits (13 and 18 ton) to do Nn3 logging locos, but I have to design a new adapter frame.   I'm trying to determine if anybody but me is interested in this.

I put this note over on the product side and got nothing but crickets.    I may do it anyway but it would be nice to have at least some interest as I've been bugged before about finding some way to use the kits for Nn3.

Hello randust,

I would be interested in pre-ordering Climax A kit in Nn3...please forward any additional information or pre-production photos you might have.

[randgust]

Right now I've got my dual-gauge test track working as intended.

What I really want to do is figure out a way to use my gearheads with this.   That means essentially destroying one of these into sub-pieces and seeing if I can mount the worm on a different motor/gearhead, set up some shaft bearings, and make a new frame to hold it all.

We'll see how this goes.