Does Anybody Make a "Working" N Scale Switchstand?

[C855B]

The idea of a scale switchstand to actuate the points is one thing (nigh impossible), but I'm looking for indication. You know, something that rotates the flag (or lantern).

NJ International has a few static models for scene purposes which are nice enough - I do wish more folks would put switchstands and other trackside utility clutter in their yard scenes! - but I want operational indication as well as the scenery feature. When I'm away from the DS console and watching the trains run, it would be handy to know when I'm about to "find" an open switch the hard way. 

[wcfn100]

On my to-do list is to go out and measure one of the stands downtown Colorado Springs.  I'd be up for trying to have something etched if someone has the measurements for a particular style.

The CGW had tall targets in Waterloo which make them even more part of the scenery.

Jason

[C855B]

Consider it done. You might recall I have this:



It was apparently the preferred or even standard style on the pre-merger UP. This particular one came off of the TP&W. I even have the UP-style lantern which fits the fork, but obviously it never gets left outside.

Weather notwithstanding, I'll use the measuring square I have for modeling-source photos and get a bunch of shots for you.

[narrowminded]

The idea of a scale switchstand to actuate the points is one thing (nigh impossible), but I'm looking for indication. You know, something that rotates the flag (or lantern).

NJ International has a few static models for scene purposes which are nice enough - I do wish more folks would put switchstands and other trackside utility clutter in their yard scenes! - but I want operational indication as well as the scenery feature. When I'm away from the DS console and watching the trains run, it would be handy to know when I'm about to "find" an open switch the hard way. 

Funny you should ask that.  I'm literally working on something right now that is an operator and has the flag indicating position.  I should have working prototypes in a day or two.  I had made some pieces a couple of weeks ago from scraps I had laying about to see if the idea was right and workable.  Based on those tests I ordered some ABS and spring wire to move forward with it.  That stuff arrived last week.   

This was prompted by my planning for my engine house and the track/ switch rework that will require plus my dissatisfaction with current manual operators.  At least one element, looks, size, or function, is missing in everything I've seen.  This was always one of those things I would do someday and that engine house pushed it to today. 

Not at all final but this should give a sense of where this I'm going with this.  The wire crank looking piece is not the way it will be finished.  A target will be used as the operator as well as the indicator, mountable low or high.

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[Maletrain]

If I remember correctly from a while back when I took measurements with the same idea in mind, the ties on either side of the throw rod for an Atlas code 55 turnout are about twice as far apart as prototypical, mainly because the throw bar is made to look like another tie.  So, trying to make an operating indicator for that turnout ends-up with something that either looks unprototypical in the mounting or is twice as large as prototypical.  I sometimes try to imagine a prototypical-looking indicator that only attaches to one of those ties and ends over but does not attach to the throw bar, so that it looks like it has the proper span.  Then some sort of lever is needed that attaches to the throw bar and moves under the indicator to rotate the "target" sitting between the throw bar and the adjacent tie.  Making something that actually works and is not too fragile to last seems difficult. 

[Doug G.]

I have one old NJ International functional switch stand that operates like a real one. You lift the lever, swing it around, and drop it down. The rod is connected to a piece with a hole in it that throws the switch rod and thus, points.

At one time I had it temporarily installed to see if it would actually work. The throw was minimal, although it was enough to seat the points in both positions. It's fairly delicate and you almost have to use a tweezers to operate it.

Some day, I may try it again.

Doug

[Paradise275]

Rapido makes an HO one. I don't know if they are planning one in N scale.

Rick

[C62-2]

This is an NJ International switch stand connected to a peco switch, so that the switch stand would rotate when you threw the switch (by pushing the rails with a finger - the switch stand wasn't strong enough to actually throw the switch). I had to drill an extra hole in the rod on the switch stand  to make it the right length so that it would rotate 90 degrees in response to the peco throw distance. The layout doesn't exist anymore, so I can't go back and retake the picture so that the switch stand is in focus.

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[C855B]

@Maletrain had it right, scale proportions and attach to just one of the ties. Here's a working concept I threw together. The bit of rectangular brass is cut moderately close to switchstand frame proportions. Post is 0.015" music wire, flag is a bit of 0.010" styrene I had sitting on the bench.

Not a valid vimeo URL
Need to slightly shorten the crank offset, but I think this sort of works. I should have pics for Jason tomorrow if there's a break in the rain we're supposed to get.

[alhoop]

Here is what I use on my layout to throw and show the position of Peco turnouts(photo 1).
Prototype is shown in photo 2.

It seems to me that the shaft the 'banjo' is mounted on and which I use to operate a micro-switch
under the roadbed to power the frog - could be turned with a crank from a the switch machine to rotate
the signal indicator.
Al

[narrowminded]

The crank arm needed to turn 90 degrees on an indication only stand is nominally .028" with zero play in the pivots and based on a .040" throw.  I say nominally because the turnout throw is not perfectly repeatable from one switch to another.  The number I just mentioned is based on a .040" throw but it can easily be +/- .005".  That .005" or more, then added to linkage play, even with pretty decent tolerances, will come up short or overshoot the 90 degrees very visibly. 

The piece I'm working on has the target turning 90 degrees to hard stops.  A spring accommodates the variance assuring a full throw and proper seat over a pretty decent variation.  At least that's the plan.   I could also make it power routing but my layout has frog juicers therefore doesn't need them.  Once I get this refined a little I'll make one that powers the frog. 

And before it's asked, no, I don't see any way to light the red/ green lantern while staying anywhere near scale but probably could light indicator lights.  But who knows what might surface as we go (but I REALLY doubt it).

[peteski]

And before it's asked, no, I don't see any way to light the red/ green lantern while staying anywhere near scale but probably could light indicator lights.  But who knows what might surface as we go (but I REALLY doubt it).

The SMD 0201 LEDs are only 0.020" x 0.010" (3.2 x 1.6 scale inches).     But getting power to them (without visible wires or oversize stand shaft) would be a challenge too.

[narrowminded]

The SMD 0201 LEDs are only 0.020" x 0.010".     But getting power to them (without visible wires or oversize stand shaft) would be a challenge too.

That's the problem.  So far I think it will be reasonably robust but with the addition of miniature wires and miniature everything else is begging for nothing but a nightmare.  And keeping it near scale which is being accomplished so far, reasonably, would suffer terribly just adding .010" to the base thickness.  There might be a chance with fiber optic but even that may not work for getting a straight shot at the .015" shaft.  And then how delicate would all of THAT be. 

I have thought of one possibility but the cost?!   It could get into double digits!!!   And we know how that flies.   I'm kidding a little but a whole layout of stands could become quite an investment.  I may try it anyway if only for myself and only on a few key ones.

[peteski]

That's the problem.  So far I think it will be reasonably robust but with the addition of miniature wires and miniature everything else is begging for nothing but a nightmare.  And keeping it near scale which is being accomplished so far, reasonably, would suffer terribly just adding .010" to the base thickness.  There might be a chance with fiber optic but even that may not work for getting a straight shot at the .015" shaft.  And then how delicate would all of THAT be. 

I have thought of one possibility but the cost?!   It could get into double digits!!!   And we know how that flies.   I'm kidding a little but a whole layout of stands could become quite an investment.  I may try it anyway if only for myself and only on a few key ones.

I know - I was just egging you on. 

Actually I was thinking of using a hollow shaft (stainless steel hypodermic tubing with a magnet wire (only one needed as the tubing would be the other pole) feed through it.  But that is just me fantasizing. 

[narrowminded]

..... - could be turned with a crank from a the switch machine to rotate
the signal indicator.
Al

There's a possibility, Mike.  You have servos powering your turnouts, yes?   Do they turn a fixed amount with a spring to take up variances and assure a seat?  If they are turning a fixed amount and the arm at the servo is fairly long you might actually be able to make something that works by utilizing the bigger throw at the end of the servo arm.  It gives you some real action to play with and the linkage tolerances and all become much less of an issue very quickly.