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Happy Holidays and Happy New Year!
Another reason I went with wire thicker than .008" for the main handrails is that I used .008" for the handrail that goes across the front intake grill and for the uncoupling levers. Those, along with hand-grabs (also I believe are typically modeled in .007" or .008" wire), are noticeably thinner than the main handrails on the prototype, as can be seen here...http://espee.railfan.net/nonindex/sw_photos/2282_sp-sw1200-bob_dengler.jpgTo me, the .008" looks just right for the railing across the grill and uncoupling levers. Not sure anything any thinner would work or look right. For the main handrails, I could've used .010" instead but the .0125" to me looks really good in this application and, like I mentioned, it's close to stock handrails on most of my other models and is super durable.
If you look closely just at the front of the loco there is a small copper finished eyelet .There is 6 like that at every 60 degrees .I used #18 green colored solid copper wire going up at 45 degrees and attached to the trunk .I used a tie wrap around the trunk to attach the 6 wires .I used a level to grossely adjust the ring , it's easy to adjust with the wires going in the eyelet , simple and effective .The ring is moving a bit up and down ( around 1/4" ) with the weight of the train passing but not enough to derail .N scale is almost silent when they are not moving fast and you can let them running without disturbing people asleep in the house .I had a Lionel O gauge around the tree and that was another story about the sound , could never run them !!!
TAfter being reinvigorated on my project, I started plowing ahead on the most complicated part of modeling York: paving the Pershing Ave street running.And I did some finishing work on some of my paving from earlier in the week.