Not the Seaboard 2.0

[narrowminded]

I kept touching up my rocks over and over till I was happy.

Last time I think I sprayed tan camo paint and I/A wash after it dried.

Thanks.  

What makes "camo paint", camo paint?     And is it solvent based, foam eating?

And I/A?  Is that india ink and alcohol?   Pretty bad, huh?

[Chris333]

Yeah it will eat foam:
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/specialty/camouflage-spray/
It is nice covering flat paint. I use the brown color to paint MTL couplers and the Khaki is a good base for "wood".

Yes ink and alcohol.

I use rubber rocks from Cripplebush:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/p3haaukueGTMAqVG2
https://photos.app.goo.gl/pQUkPwwIfXIbcHPM2

Cut them out with scissors and glue them:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/waW8wKJSDEbKUZx82
Blend in with Sculpamold:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wwSHQRU8Wd4vpn6M2
Paint:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EqAz6sPy0P8ej3PI3
https://photos.app.goo.gl/dB73tLAayW1Lyccx2

[peteski]

I use rubber rocks from Cripplebush:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/p3haaukueGTMAqVG2
https://photos.app.goo.gl/pQUkPwwIfXIbcHPM2

Cut them out with scissors and glue them:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/waW8wKJSDEbKUZx82
Blend in with Sculpamold:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wwSHQRU8Wd4vpn6M2
Paint:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EqAz6sPy0P8ej3PI3
https://photos.app.goo.gl/dB73tLAayW1Lyccx2

Cripplebush usually has a booth at the Springfield show, so I had a chance to fondle all those rocks myself. I was very impressed.
Friend uses those "rocks" on his layout and they look amazing. They are pricey, but there is  a wide range of different types of rocks available. It is also weird to glue rubber rocks on a layout (usually rubber rock molds are used to make Hydrocal rocks), but they look super realistic, even with no additional weathering.

[Philip H]

Cripplebush usually has a booth at the Springfield show, so I had a chance to fondle all those rocks myself. I was very impressed.

 
 
 

 

[mu26aeh]

Cripplebush usually has a booth at the Springfield show, so I had a chance to fondle all those rocks myself. I was very impressed.

Now that you're a mod and in a position of power, I have to wonder if there is an investigation upcoming....

[peteski]

Cripplebush usually has a booth at the Springfield show, so I had a chance to fondle all those rocks myself. I was very impressed.

Now that you're a mod and in a position of power, I have to wonder if there is an investigation upcoming....

ROTFL!  I have a feeling that I might be put out to pasture along with all the others.

I sometimes visit an electronic surplus store in Manchester NH.  The clerk/cashier (owner?) has a great sense of humor.  The shelves are filled with all sorts of electronic or electrical parts/equipment, mostly in sealed boxes.  He has handwritten the info about each item and placed the placards on the shelves. But still, to prevent curious customers from ripping open the boxes to see what's inside, he usually has one of each item removed from the box and labeled "fondling sample".  Very smart idea, and the name cracks me up every time I see it. So I  started using that term for any hobby item I'm able to hold in my hand and enjoy the tactile feedback.

[Chris333]

I have bought "shale 18" 3 times now, it is 32x8". On a smallish layout you can get probably 50 small outcroppings and for $65 it is worth it I think.
http://www.cripplebush.net/shale/shale-18.htm

Of course DKS tipped me off to these on his G&D layout.

[Cajonpassfan]

I kept touching up my rocks over and over till I was happy.

Oh, I can so see somebody here taking this quote and running with it...
Otto K.

[narrowminded]

Those rocks I did were just cut and chopped foam.  I think they work OK for shale type rock but maybe I should have another type next to it to compare to.  I also think the foam could be cut to represent harder rocks but for this possible project that shouldn't be needed.  I'll need practice.

[narrowminded]

Yeah it will eat foam:
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/specialty/camouflage-spray/
It is nice covering flat paint. I use the brown color to paint MTL couplers and the Khaki is a good base for "wood".

Yes ink and alcohol.

I use rubber rocks from Cripplebush:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/p3haaukueGTMAqVG2
https://photos.app.goo.gl/pQUkPwwIfXIbcHPM2

Cut them out with scissors and glue them:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/waW8wKJSDEbKUZx82
Blend in with Sculpamold:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wwSHQRU8Wd4vpn6M2
Paint:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EqAz6sPy0P8ej3PI3
https://photos.app.goo.gl/dB73tLAayW1Lyccx2

Thanks, Chris.  I guess that by using rubber rocks and sculptamold over the foam, the solvent based paint doesn't have anything to attack.  Makes sense.

[DKS]

Of course DKS tipped me off to these on his G&D layout.

Ever since I started using Cripplebush rock, I haven't used anything else. After I cut and assemble parts (using scissors and CA glue) to make a whole rock face, I spray it with grey primer, then hit it with ink washes. After installing it on the layout and blending it into the surrounding scenery with Sculptamold, I'll brush on powdered chalk to give it variations in color tone.



Incidentally, I've started using camo paint as well, because it comes in a variety of nice rock/earth colors, and it's also dead flat.
 

[narrowminded]

Thanks to all for your interest and helpful comments.   And also for the levity.   Both are important.

I did a little more maintenance.  One item was redoing the road lines in a few thin spots and then extending some more.  They were only completed to the parking lot entrance on the left, about half way up the hill.  I only went on the straight part to see how it would go and will finish it when I have taken the time to cut a guide that follows the slight road contours. This line painting technique is something I learned about here and believe it originated with DKS.  Using colored pencil, laying down white first and then following with yellow.  It works SLICK and very manageable.  The roads are styrene, painted with light gray primer, and then sealed with dull coat.   I'm sure the dull coat is important to keep the base from getting messed up with the final traffic lines and finish treatments. 

I've also started planning the train station replacement.  Because it needs to be small for the allotted space I plan on starting with Woodland Scenics Woodland Station model but making a different base that fits the space better.  The kit is very nicely made, crisp detail and excellent fitting parts.  BUT, it's also furnished with enough railroady doo-dads all crammed in to the space around the station and with locating holes and lugs in the base for all of those doo-dads.   I originally thought those holes were for custom sizing, just tear along the dotted lines.   By remaking the base I can make it a more custom fit to the space and a little larger so that there's a more believable space around the station.  Might be able to place a loading ramp for carts, too.  And I can select the doo-dads, not cramming everything in or trying to fill locating holes in a board floor.  At least that's the idea.  I've primered everything with solvent based gray primer and will let that dry a day or two.

AND, while on that subject, do folks use the cheap flat acrylics?  I ask because they say they are for use on porous surfaces only but I'm of a mind that the primer covers that need.  Yes?

[narrowminded]

Last night I finished the painting and assembly of the basic station kit structure.  I was able to take advantage of my newly acquired fine detail brushes, a need I discovered while painting the red DPM kit bash building that came with the layout.  I thought I had some pretty fine brushes, and did, but they weren't quite fine enough.  What I purchased for only a few dollars each was a 16/0 and a 20/0 pointed tip.  Detailing the red windows and trim on this kit I used the bigger 16 for everything except the three gray squares on the entry doors which were so small that I used the 20.  It's amazing what the right tool will allow you to do.   It was still tedious work but not frustrating.  I was able to control the brush and get very crisp edges everywhere I tried and with only good caution and an optivisor.    I was happy.

I debated about the colors, weighing between a two tone green or two tone gray with an alternate color for the trim.  What I did was single gray, Krylon primer, with tuscan red trim.   I primered everything first, tested some of the several greens I had on some of the painted parts trees and wasn't satisfied with any of them but seeing the gray primer on the building, I did like it and decided to just go with it.  I didn't expect that.   And the roof was colored using just a black wash, 10:1 cheap acrylic, on the gray primered roof.  So that's it this far. 

I expect to make a new base that better fits the space, doesn't have all of the holes for all of the doo-dads that came with the kit, and affords a little more working room.  I will still proceed with painting the existing base, trying out paints to accomplish the wood floor/ dock finish and allowing more time to study the whole scene in the station's vicinity before to commit too much to a final design and surgery to the scenery and sidewalks.

Something I will want to do is light the building and have some interior features, especially the main office and maybe waiting room.  No specific plans there just yet but expect a desk, maybe with typewriter and...  I don't know yet.  Any advice?  Any good bought station interior details? 

Now back to the base and station details and then decide if it's time for some dullcoat. 

And here are some pics this far.

[mu26aeh]

Nicely done, reminiscent of Western Maryland station colors

[narrowminded]

And here's a picture of that station sitting in the allocated space.  It might give some sense of the need for such a small station and also the flavor of the scene that, to my eye, supports a station like this in size and style.  Any and all comments/ critiques are welcome.