Best Of Keystone Customs announces Angled numberboards for your SW Diesels

[Lemosteam]

Keystone Customs now offers a rendition of these angled numberboards.



These were requested by @coosvalley but I am not sure of all the applications so best to consult reference photos.  If there is interest, I can combine these with the NW Headlight housings (suggested by @coosvalley) in an upgrade kit.

Housing is now hollow for lighting (see discussion below).

Thin glass or black styrene with whilte decals,  or white styrene with a black background with clear lettering decals finishes them off. 

Recess is 0.27mm (0.011") deep for 0.010 thick material.

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These are available here:

http://www.keystonedetails.com/keystone-customs/2017/3/27/n-scale-nw2-dual-vertical-sealed-beam-housing-4-pk-ck52x

[coosvalley]

Most excellent!. From what I've found, these were used on B&M SW1s, SW8s, and SW9s, and Southern Pacific SW8s, SW900s, and SW1200s, and possibly others.

I can now model B&M 1127, which was B&Ms only SW1 fitted with M.U. She was originally used on a branch near my hometown, and would separate from the road power and head down the branch, switch out cars, and return to the waiting train.

Here she is MU'ed to some bigger power:

http://s3.amazonaws.com/rrpa_photos/79206/5'24'83%201127-306%20SP-1%20Deerfield,MA.jpg

http://s3.amazonaws.com/rrpa_photos/79206/5'23'83%201567-1127-203%20SP-1%20E.Dfld.,MA.jpg

[wcfn100]

Why are they arranged to print like that?

Jason

[C855B]

On UP TR5 cows:

  http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1596415
  http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=2965927

Also SW9s:

  http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1820681
  http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=2502405

On closer examination they're slightly different, but you get the idea.

EDIT: Also SW7s and NW2s. Going to check Alcos now. 

Yes on RS1s, RS2s and RSC2s. But not S2s or S4s. Interesting. AS-616s, too.

[coosvalley]

On UP TR5 cows:

  http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1596415
  http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=2965927

Also SW9s:

  http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1820681
  http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=2502405

On closer examination they're slightly different, but you get the idea.

EDIT: Also SW7s and NW2s. Going to check Alcos now. 

Yes on RS1s, RS2s and RSC2s. But not S2s or S4s. Interesting. AS-616s, too.

While those are similar, they don't have the class light. The glass on the B&M/SP version seems to be the same as GP7/9s too, with rounded corners.. The UP ones look much more square.

[C855B]

While those are similar, they don't have the class light. The glass on the B&M/SP version seems to be the same as GP7/9s too, with rounded corners.. The UP ones look much more square.

Oooo... they're a lot different! I looked through the pics again, and the UP boards have a curved back with a protrusion for the bulb holder. Might be another project to pursue.

[tehachapifan]

Glad to see these as this has been a stumbling block for completing a couple SP switchers.

[peteski]

Most excellent!. From what I've found, these were used on B&M SW1s, SW8s, and SW9s, and Southern Pacific SW8s, SW900s, and SW1200s, and possibly others.

The 3D drawing looks good! So you decided to go with 3D printing?  I remember you considering photo-etched metal or cast metal.
How will you attach them to the model?  Gluing the very thin footprint brackets or the center post?

[tehachapifan]

....How will you attach them to the model?  Gluing the very thin footprint brackets or the center post?

I've been running this very question in the background of my brain for the last couple days while off doing other things. As with the photo above, it was common for one of the mounting brackets to be attached at the rounded curve at the top of the long hood on SP switchers (SW1200's, for the most part). This is going to be somewhat of a challenge to achieve on an N scale model and still have a somewhat sturdy assembly when done. I'm thinking of using some brass flat stock that gets attached where that small angle iron piece is on both ends of the number board housing on the bottom...one of which needs a rounded bottom to match the curve in the long hood, then solder on a piece of, say .010" wire to insert into a hole drilled into the shell. Other ideas certainly welcomed!

[peteski]

I've been running this very question in the background of my brain for the last couple days while off doing other things. As with the photo above, it was common for one of the mounting brackets to be attached at the rounded curve at the top of the long hood on SP switchers (SW1200's, for the most part). This is going to be somewhat of a challenge to achieve on an N scale model and still have a somewhat sturdy assembly when done. I'm thinking of using some brass flat stock that gets attached where that small angle iron piece is on both ends of the number board housing on the bottom...one of which needs a rounded bottom to match the curve in the long hood, then solder on a piece of, say .010" wire to insert into a hole drilled into the shell. Other ideas certainly welcomed!

No need to matched rounded brackets. What I would try to do is make the angle brass pieces "legs" longer than needed then using a thin razor saw cut 2 slits in the nose's curved surface for the "legs" to sit in. Put the number board assembly in and then flow some thin CA glue in to seal the slits and glue in the bracket. Now the bracket conforms to the curve of the hood, the glue joint is also very robust.  The only problem is figuring out the correct place to cut the slits. Maybe create some sort of template?  I have several very thin photoetched hand saws ) 0.1mm and 0.15mm which would probably be perfect for making those slits.

This is the type of saw I have.

[tehachapifan]

Thanks, Peteski! While I've never seen that razor saw kit, I have pondered trying to make slits as you suggest fore the reasons you mentioned. However, those slits would have to be pretty darn tiny/short as the brackets would not be very wide. How small are some of those razor saws?

[peteski]

Thanks, Peteski! While I've never seen that razor saw kit, I have pondered trying to make slits as you suggest fore the reasons you mentioned. However, those slits would have to be pretty darn tiny/short as the brackets would not be very wide. How small are some of those razor saws?

They fit in a standard hobby knife handle. The one on the rightmost side is about the size and shape of a #11 blade.  I also have a saw which is the size of a single-edge razor blade. As I said, if the slit is larger than the bracket some thin or extra thin CA glue (and some BSI brand accelerator) will fill that extra long part of the slit.  Then the paint can be touched up.

Here are couple of the saws I have:
http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_28&products_id=3820
http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_28&products_id=35

[Lemosteam]

These were modeled @coosvalley 's direction, using an HO Cal-Scale detail part, which uses the center pin to locate and mount the piece and should provide enough gluing surface to mount them.

If I had my druthers, I would sand off the feet on these, take 0.005" strip stock and bend one bracket with two legs, or two brackets with one leg each and mount them to the housing first using them to mark the body, The I would cut slots as @peteski suggests, insert, level and glue from the inside.  But my era may never have a need for these anyway.

Any excess slot could be filled in with putty, and touched up or I assume most would likely be repainting the whole shell.

[Mark5]

Cool. What size is the number board? (scale inches)

http://www.shellscale.com/numberboard%20page.htm

Mark

[Lemosteam]

Opening measures 8" x 31.18".  Again this was translated from the HO detail part.

Saw those the other day- hopefully they will fit.