Clear putty ?

[JanesCustomTrain]

Is there something out there like clear putty ? Something I can press out of a tube which hardens but stays clear, or at least translucent. I need it to fill up number board openings in N scale shells. I don't like to work with two component epoxy glue. Microscale's Kristal Klear doesn't really work as it is not waterproof when cured, it softens right up again as soon as the number board decals are applied and it is hard to slide the decals into the right place. Thanks.

Jane   

[Chris333]

Good putty is 2 part. Clear putty would be epoxy.

[peteski]

I have never seen a clear epoxy putty.   But there are several brands of UV-curable  clear resins like https://notaglue.com/.  I have never tried using Bondic for window "glass", as it is a bit too runny in the uncured state, but it might be worth some experimenting.

The problem with any clear 2-part material which had a consistency of a putty is that it would probably end up with with lots of air bubbles while the 2 parts are being thoroughly mixed.  I know when I mix regular 5-minute epoxy glue it ends up with lots of tiny air bubbles, and it is much less viscous than putty.

[John]

Have you tried canopy glue?



http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCX70

[Lemosteam]

@JanesCustomTrain ,

I asked a similar question a few moths ago.  Was going to cast my own light pipes in a silicone mold:

Here is the thread: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=41677.msg521576#msg521576

There may be some products in that thread you could try.

[JanesCustomTrain]

Thank you all for your answers. I will try the canopy glue and the UV-curable stuff first and if that doesn't work, back to two component epoxy I guess.

Jane

[Tom Todd]

Try an aquarium store for some clear stuff to attach glass pieces to each other, as in building aquariums
Tom Todd

[Tom Todd]

 Caulk; clear caulk

[Lemosteam]

Caulk; clear caulk

Hmm, this reminds me of a product I used to use in remodeling sometimes, Lexel

http://www.sashco.com/products/lexel/

The stuff is perfectly clear.

[MK]

I don't think you can sand caulking or anything that doesn't set up hard.

[chessie system fan]

What is it exactly you're trying to do?  Why not cut the lighted numberboards out so that you can glue them so that they stick out a little farther.  It's clear already, plus it's a perfect fit.  I've done this before and it's super simple.

[JanesCustomTrain]

What is it exactly you're trying to do?  Why not cut the lighted numberboards out so that you can glue them so that they stick out a little farther.  It's clear already, plus it's a perfect fit.  I've done this before and it's super simple.

I know, I've done that as well on several Atlas and Kato cabs. What I am trying to do is fill in number board openings on shells which do not have illuminated number boards from factory. I drilled and filed them out, now I need something to fill the opening on old Kato C44 and F7s for example.

Jane

[Santa Fe Guy]

Have you considered looking at costume jewelry that kids use to make up necklaces etc. They glue gems into all sorts of stuff.
Might have something that we have never even realized was available.
Just a thought.
Rod.

[peteski]

I know, I've done that as well on several Atlas and Kato cabs. What I am trying to do is fill in number board openings on shells which do not have illuminated number boards from factory. I drilled and filed them out, now I need something to fill the opening on old Kato C44 and F7s for example.

Jane

Glue a piece of clear adhesive tape inside of the shell (behind the number board opening). Make sure it is tightly sealing the opening.  Fill the opening (from the outside) with the UV-curable resin until it is flush. hold the shell in a way that positions the surface of the number board horizontal/level and then set the resin with the UV light. Now you have a perfect clear number board casting to which you can apply decal.

If you are planning to illuminate the number boards, mixing some talcum powder with the resin should nicely diffuse the light to evenly illuminate the number board.  BUt it might also delay or pfevent the resin from setting - test this before using it on the model.

I know that you don't like it, but you can also use a regular 2-part epoxy instead of the UV curable resin. But since it will take some time to set you need to prop the shell in such a way that the surface of the number board stays horizontal and level until the epoxy sets.  So you can only do one number board at a time.

[JanesCustomTrain]

Glue a piece of clear adhesive tape inside of the shell (behind the number board opening). Make sure it is tightly sealing the opening.  Fill the opening (from the outside) with the UV-curable resin until it is flush. hold the shell in a way that positions the surface of the number board horizontal/level and then set the resin with the UV light. Now you have a perfect clear number board casting to which you can apply decal.

If you are planning to illuminate the number boards, mixing some talcum powder with the resin should nicely diffuse the light to evenly illuminate the number board.  BUt it might also delay or pfevent the resin from setting - test this before using it on the model.

I know that you don't like it, but you can also use a regular 2-part epoxy instead of the UV curable resin. But since it will take some time to set you need to prop the shell in such a way that the surface of the number board stays horizontal and level until the epoxy sets.  So you can only do one number board at a time.

Thanks for that Pete, I will do it exactly like you have described it and report back with the results. It will take a while for the UV stuff to arrive, I went the cheap China including free shipping for $1.50 way. I did also buy some canopy glue and some fresh clear Gorilla fast setting epoxy, just in case.

Jane