Author Topic: CN Yellowhead Division  (Read 56749 times)

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Ed Kapuscinski

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Re: CN Yellowhead Division
« Reply #390 on: February 01, 2025, 09:25:20 PM »
+1
@samusi01 I'm using Tinkercad (online, free).  It is very simplistic in concept but powerful once you learn how to scale everything accurately.  I could not recommend it for organic designs (not withstanding the new bezier curve feature), but it is ideal for rectilinear designs like freight cars and other manufactured items.

Tinkercad allows copy paste so it makes multi-unit designs very fast.  The C unit of the Trinity set took 20 minutes to build from components from the A B units.

Wait, you're doing these in Tinkercad?!?! You stud!

Scottl

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Re: CN Yellowhead Division
« Reply #391 on: February 02, 2025, 07:06:36 PM »
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@Ed Kapuscinski  TWSS :trollface:

But honestly, I'm not sure how else I would design in 3D.  I started using Tinkercad in 2016 when I did some tunnel portals and snow sheds and immediately felt like it was an intuitive way to construct a 3D model and it allows precise dimensioning as well. 


Scottl

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Re: CN Yellowhead Division
« Reply #392 on: February 09, 2025, 02:20:49 PM »
+3
More Tinkercad goodness.  These Thrall 40' 5-unit sets used all the components and experience from my previous designs to come out perfect on version 1.



GaryHinshaw

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Re: CN Yellowhead Division
« Reply #393 on: February 09, 2025, 02:45:31 PM »
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Very nice.  Which resin is this now?  Have you experienced any warpage with any of these prints?

Scottl

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Re: CN Yellowhead Division
« Reply #394 on: February 09, 2025, 02:55:51 PM »
+1
I have used the Anycubic Plant-based for most of it and found there was no warping of the 40' cars.  The 53' cars needed some brass sills to keep them stable, but the walls were a bit thinner so that might be part of the issue. I would use this resin again, but honestly did not find the smell less offensive than conventional resin.  Every print worked fine, no failures.

I am now using Anycubic water-wash resin and don't like it.  It prints fine but is quite brittle compared to the others. The cars above are printed with the water-wash resin and there has been no warping. I had to reprint a few of the end cars because I broke off the brake wheel stand removing the supports. 

I don't know how this varies from other protocols, but I leave the prints on supports for a few days after curing.  I also minimize the time in alcohol to rinse.  A few good shakes in each of a dirty and clean alcohol bath gets the prints nice and clean.  Soaking resin in solvents for a long time was a big no-no with all the things I did in the lab.  Especially if the solvent has some water in it as they pretty much all do.

Added note:  The Anycubic water-wash resin is very low viscosity, which is good if you are printing in cool conditions.  We had a deep freeze last week and I had some weird artefacts with more viscous resins like the Plant based and ABS like.  The water-wash worked at temps of 14-18 degrees C no problem at all.  So maybe it has a niche use if you can't always keep the print space ideal temperatures.
« Last Edit: February 10, 2025, 09:29:18 AM by Scottl »