Detail parts question

[rhiadon]

I think I've heard that there are etched brash detail parts for various locomotives. I think I'd read that someone had removed the molded plastic grate from the top of the hood of a locomotive and replaced it with an open etched brass part. When I read this, I realized that this could be useful for creating a little more space under the hood for a decoder. My problem is I have no idea where to even look.

Specifically, I'm most interested in the NW2 if there are etched brass parts for this at all. I don;t know where to even begin looking. Does anyone have any ideas?

Kris

[Catt]

I don't know if the have what your looking for but I would suggest that you try Gold Metal Models.They specialize in etched brass detail parts.

[peteski]

I think I've heard that there are etched brash detail parts for various locomotives. I think I'd read that someone had removed the molded plastic grate from the top of the hood of a locomotive and replaced it with an open etched brass part. When I read this, I realized that this could be useful for creating a little more space under the hood for a decoder. My problem is I have no idea where to even look.

Specifically, I'm most interested in the NW2 if there are etched brass parts for this at all. I don;t know where to even begin looking. Does anyone have any ideas?

Kris

Kris,
While removing the thickness of plastic from the shell and placing a thin brass replacement will theoretically leave some extra space, but in most cases there are no decoders small or thin enough to fit in that space. Modifying the chassis for the decoder is also usually required. I suppose that if the footprint of the area replaced by brass part is large enough to accommodate the shape of the decoder board you will be able to remove that much less of the metal in the chassis.

I have never seen anybody looking at super-detailing locomotives from your space-gaining angle, but it is an interesting theory.  I'll be interested to see what comes out of your idea.

[Spades]

Rhiadon

Tehachapifan a member here has built a number of SW1500's he removed the radiator grills from the shell and replaced them with mesh.  He built up the structure underneath the mesh.  You can see it here.
 
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=34829.msg405483#msg405483.  Ignorant WAG your best place for a decoder is in the cab.

G

[rhiadon]

Kris,
While removing the thickness of plastic from the shell and placing a thin brass replacement will theoretically leave some extra space, but in most cases there are no decoders small or thin enough to fit in that space. Modifying the chassis for the decoder is also usually required. I suppose that if the footprint of the area replaced by brass part is large enough to accommodate the shape of the decoder board you will be able to remove that much less of the metal in the chassis.

I have never seen anybody looking at super-detailing locomotives from your space-gaining angle, but it is an interesting theory.  I'll be interested to see what comes out of your idea.

I think a little differently sometimes. I have very few preconceived notions about this, probably because I'm very new. FYI, you may have seen pictures in the past of my work to cram an ESU Loksound into a Kato NW2. I was more or less successful, but I'd like the shell to fit a smidge better. The problem was at the front of the hood and I corrected it mostly my milling out some of the material with a Dremel. I then started seeing some people do these super detailing project with mesh and I had an epiphany. That should give me all the room I need so that the taller components on the Loksound decode will actually fit.

I'll look for some mesh and see what I can come up with. It's not going to be easy, but I think it might work.

[craigolio1]

Two great sources for mesh. Metal coffee filters and hash pipe screen from eBay. The hash pipe screen comes in many sizes and in big rolls for cheap.

Craig

[tehachapifan]

Rhiadon

Tehachapifan a member here has built a number of SW1500's he removed the radiator grills from the shell and replaced them with mesh.  He built up the structure underneath the
mesh.  You can see it here.
 https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=34829.msg405483#msg405483.  Ignorant WAG your best place for a decoder is in the cab.

G

Thanks for the reference to my SW1500 bashes, Spades!

The mesh I used for the top and front grills was from Eduard, as can be seen here...



I found the Eduard mesh to be really nice to work with. It's easy to cut and bend but it is very sturdy stuff. I used the 4X6 (00102) mesh fro the top grills and 2X4 (00108) for the front intake grill.

Not sure what you would want to use on the NW2 as my Kato units have what looks like louvers on the top. Also, keep in mind that adding an etched mesh can introduce the potential for shorts across components if the idea is to position a decoder underneath.

[rhiadon]

Thanks for the reference to my SW1500 bashes, Spades!

The mesh I used for the top and front grills was from Eduard, as can be seen here...



I found the Eduard mesh to be really nice to work with. It's easy to cut and bend but it is very sturdy stuff. I used the 4X6 (00102) mesh fro the top grills and 2X4 (00108) for the front intake grill.

Not sure what you would want to use on the NW2 as my Kato units have what looks like louvers on the top. Also, keep in mind that adding an etched mesh can introduce the potential for shorts across components if the idea is to position a decoder underneath.

The mesh being metal and possibly shorting things is very worth mentioning. My plan is to cover the decoder in something that hides it, like black electrical tape, for example. I want the space, but I don't want coils and caps showing through the grille.

Do you have a writeup on the forum of the steps you took to do this install? I'd never cut away pieces of a shell, so I'm mostly interested in the "right" way to remove the molded grilles.

[tehachapifan]

To create rough openings, I use a pin-vise and carefully drill several holes very close together all around the perimeter of the opening, leaving a little extra space between the eventual opening edge in case the twist-drill wanders a little. I drill the holes close enough together so I can easily cut/carve from hole to hole using a #11 hobby blade without having to apply very much pressure at all (I've found that skimping on holes and/or drilling them too far apart and having to apply more pressure to cut between them increases the chances of a slip or breakage and something bad happening to me or my model ). Once I have a rough opening, I clean up the edges with the hobby knife and a hobby file and also fine-tune the final size of the opening. This process can be time-consuming but has worked well for me. I think this is probably a pretty common approach as I remember seeing other modelers do it, but I would be interested to hear any other methods folks have used.