Removing decals from BLI E6 without damaging paint? (Also decoder issues)

[Cajonpassfan]

I was happy to acquire a BLI UP E6 as a protection engine but when it arrived, I was shocked, shocked I tell you to see the nose decal on the thing...it is yuge! I knew it would require some modifications and additional detailing, but the decal has got to go. What were they thinking? The pics below show what the logo is supposed to look like, and what it actually looks like 
Anyone with experience removing BLI decals without damaging BLI paint?
Thoughts and input appreciated!
Otto K.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Try Micro Sol soaked tissue over the area for 10 minutes, then use a pencil eraser.

BLI paint varies from tough to extremely easy to remove. You may need to touch up parts that rub off.

[draskouasshat]

I like the microsol otto. I would try a q-tip before the pencil eraser though add it will be softer on the paint. I've had good luck with a q-tip removing lettering on atlas boxcars without base paint damage.

Adam Draskovich

[peteski]

If that fails, try Solvaset.

There was an earlier thread describing various methods of removing Tampo-printing from factory-painted models. IIRC one method was to place a piece of toilet paper soaked with decal setting solution over the Tampo-print. I also recall a link to a Youtube video showing another method. Do a forum search . . .

[160pennsy]

On box cars and steam tenders, I've had good luck using Alcohol and a clean brand new #2 pencil eraser carefully rubbed in circles or back-n-forth over the tampo lettering.

[Cajonpassfan]

Thanks guys, but now the sound is dead, won't come out of "mute". I did a reset to factory defaults, didn't help. And the sound quality on these improved Paragon decoders is actually quite good IMO, with a layer of background sounds that add a lot of depth. So before I start messing with the unit, I need to solve the sound problem, otherwise back to BLI it goes Always something...
Otto K.

[Spades]

Used this method to change a Cottonbelt GP40-2 to a SP unit

https://www.facebook.com/AthearnModelTrains/videos/10152936814060041

[Denver Road Doug]

I'll add to the above...   I follow the Micro-Sol on tissue method, but another variation to erasers or q-tips is to actually place Scotch tape on the graphics to be removed, and then pull it off.  Sometimes, the WHOLE graphic comes off in tact!  No rubbing, which is typically what removes the paint.   Sometimes it takes a couple of applications of the tape to get it off but I'm having good luck with that method since learning of it.   Sometimes, it doesn't work as well and you still have to resort to the qtip or whatever.    But trying the tape first is really my go-to method going forward.

[Doc Frankenfield]

try ammonia with a q tip

[Cajonpassfan]

Thanks for the advice guys. Got to try the tissue overlay technique, sounds promising.
I've removed plenty of lettering using different methods with *mostly* success. My inquiry was specific to BLI paint, as I've had some unpleasant surprises in the past where the paint came off with the decal/print. It's moot anyway, until I get the decoder issue fixed... it's odd, as it was working and sounding mighty fine, and I used the F8 button a number of times to turn up and down the sound (double click) and shut it off and turn it on (single click). And then, nothing...
Otto

[Cajonpassfan]

try ammonia with a q tip

That sounds scary... Like it could eat not just the decal, but the paint and shell too.
So when you say try it, you mean you've done it and it works, or you're just curious what it will do to my engine? 
Otto K.

[peteski]

That sounds scary... Like it could eat not just the decal, but the paint and shell too.
So when you say try it, you mean you've done it and it works, or you're just curious what it will do to my engine? 
Otto K.

Maybe you are confusing ammonia with acetone?  Ammonia will not attack polystyrene or ABS (shell material).  Ammonia will also not attack most paints.

[Mike C]

 Those Paragon decoders are batty! I've had mine do similar things . Ended up putting Tsu 2's in my M1's . I use JMRI , and when something weird happens , I usually just reload the motor control screen .  I'm guessing you tried cycling the power , You might want to try entering a new value into the volume CV .  I agree the sound is pretty good on these locos , but I'm not so sure I like the weird problems I've had with the decoders ....Mike

[Roger Holmes]

Remove the shell and you will find a gray micro-sized pushbutton.  Hold it down while there is track power on and it will reset the decoder when CV8 won't.  You should find this procedure in the instruction booklet.  I've had the same issues and that has always brought the sound back to life.

I hope this helps--BTW be very careful not to lose the front coupler screw when removing the body shell.  Don't ask

[Cajonpassfan]

Thanks Roger. I knew about the reset bottom, but it didn't occur to me to try it, because the  F8 factory reset did work on all non-sound functions. I'm out of town but will try it when I get back.
Otto