Feeder Wires for Peco Code 55

[ljudice]

Recommendations on feeder wires to solder on to Peco Code 55 - DCC operation????

Also, tin the wire or rail or both?  And what about flux?

[BN1970]

I use flux on the rail, then tin the rail.  Next I dip the end of my 22 gauge wire (the part that I want to solder onto the rail) in the flux.

I then place the wire on the rail followed by the soldering iron, for a second or so.  Last let it cool for a few seconds with out moving the wire or rail.

I've done that for over 40 years with Peco track and I've never had a problem with a feeder coming off later. --Brian

PS: My wire is already tinned and I have a 35 watt soldering iron.

[soo]

I second the comment that Brian made.

I flux both, tin both, then a quick touch with the iron makes it all good.

One important thing to keep in mind,,, ALWAYS keep the iron clean,, dirty tip will NOT transfer heat quickly.

I use a liquid water soluble flux. I use it for my track work and electronics.

https://www.hnflux.com/page2.html

See ya,
Y-It

[BN1970]

Good point about a clean tip, I use a small wet sponge.

You just need to wipe both sides of the hot tip on the sponge to clean it. --Brian

[ljudice]

Thanks very much!!!!

- Lou

[peteski]

How long will the feeders be?  6" or 12" or longer?  If they are the former length then 22 AWG is WAY overkill.   Heavy gauge  feeders are harder to work with, and really unnecessary.  I just recently started composing a thread on voltage drops of various gauge feeders under load - I'll post it someday (maybe next week).

[ljudice]

Generally around 12-18 inches...   


- Lou

[ljudice]

Related questions...

- Do you bend the end of the feeder to form an "L" to make a larger surface or solder the end right to the rail?

- Ideas on holding the feeder in place while soldering....

Thanks again....

[BN1970]

Yes, I bend it to form an "L".  And I think someone already said, after cleaning the soldering iron tip you should wet it with just a touch of fresh solder.

That touch of new solder wants to make contact with the wire your soldering.

Being liquid it will transfer the heat from your irons tip into the wire / rail at a quicker rate verses a dry tip. --Brian

PS:  Try not to breath the fumes given off from the flux, they may not be healthy over the long run IMHO?

[crrcoal]

I also put a alligator clip on each side of the area I'm soldering as a heat sink. No more melted ties that way.

[ljudice]

Once again thanks!!!    I changed wire, added flux and now my joints are super neat and very strong.... 


- Lou

[nkalanaga]

With Peco's double-base design, one could drill a hole between the two bases, stick the end of the wire in the hole, and then solder it.  Definitely overkill, but it shouldn't ever come loose.  Might be an idea for a hard-to-reach area.

[BCR 570]

I am using 22 AWG feeder wires and my feeder runs are typically under six inches; I don't have any issues working with this size of wire.  It seems to be just right for this application.  I use the same method described by Brian; cleaning the rail and applying solder to it before attaching the feeder is an important step.  One additional step I take is to lightly file the base of the rail before applying the flux and the solder.  This is just another small step to ensure a nice clean surface to adhere to.  I have had no issues with conductivity or with feeders coming loose.

Tim

[ljudice]

I'm finding 22 AWG to be just right in terms of handling and appearance....

One point mentioned I notice is REALLY cleaning the rail with Alcohol drastically improves this process.

[Catt]

I used ATLAS code 83 terminal joiners when I rebuilt my N scale layout. They are a nice snug fit on the bottom web of the PECO code 55 track.