The Canal Line

[Point353]

No. I confess to being lazy, but I have found the units themselves need no protection: a short circuit causes them no harm.

That's good to know because the following spec sheet suggests otherwise:
https://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/pdfs/LDK-8A.pdf

[DKS]

I probably have not had problems because 1) I only supply them with 9-12 VDC, which is half the maximum; and 2) I've not deliberately created a short, cranked up the throttle to full, and left it that way. Also note that the spec sheet says "may" cause harm (i.e., "CYA").

 

[coosvalley]

Well gang, the Canal line turns a year old this week. It is hard to believe in that year I went from this:



To this, taken today:




Recent work includes the new valance with hidden speakers for the Fantasonics CD sounds and color temp adjustable LED lighting,(thanks for the great writeup, @lashedup ) a new higher backdrop with removeable sides, and I'm working on a walkaround throttle currently.I've also started fitting the "center" building together too, so that the right side and center can be finished nearly together, so I can pave the area. I will be resuming work on the large mill too, I recently had to take the layout down so we could host company, a yearly event. Due to these annual guests, the whole layout can be disassembled easily, and put back together easily too. Plus, it will be easy to move if we ever do.

Anywho, some pics of where I am now:






















Overall, I am nearly 100% happy with this layout. Operationally, it has been excellent. All frogs are powered, and all switches are powered except for the one in the bridge, which has a thin brass strip you pull or push to throw it(which will mostly be covered by walkway), and it's SPDT inside the bridge. My first attempt at the throwbar kept breaking off, this new one is attached more sturdily, and has been 100% reliable since it's installation.

Scenically, there is one thing I would change, the end of the bridge towards the operator isn't aligned like it should be, but since it operates well, I'm going to leave it be, and do my best to cover up it's issues.
I also need to work out how I'm going to handle the bridge walkway uprights and handrail, this detail will make or break the scene, methinks.. Maybe I or someone can design something to print in FUD that would slip between the ties and just require connections between them. The walkway itself will be laser cut crossing parts, which I have already acquired. I am still on the fence about guardrails on the bridge, since it is not a normal bridge I may skip them, but they might look really cool too...we will see!

As for the future of the layout, in the short range I hope to finish the big mill sometime soon, but it will not be rushed, it needs some interiors(3 areas, which will be lit), the window sills painted concrete by hand( ), and then the couple hundred windows added (). I am also hoping to pour water by the end of summer, but I need to get a larger piece of first surface mirror, as the piece I have now is just barely wide enough to cover one end of the canal, but not the other. But having seen it in place, I can't wait to get them glued in!

I , of course, also want to expand, but the rule is this part has to be nearly complete first. I can probably expand into either corner with a 4x4 sheet(but missing a corner to match the current layout), so I have to decide which side I want to expand. I have some ideas I will show you guys, but I have to rough them out first! So instead, I will show some pics of areas I find inspiring in the next post..

[coosvalley]

OK, so if I expand to the right of my current layout, this is what it may look like.  I have trietd to outline the layout edge, and show where I plan to skew things a bit to get it to fit into a corner..

First is this view, showing the current layout, a section I will likely skip(for now), and then the new section.



Next are these two views, the yellow is the outline of the module..red is tracks that existed, green is changes I need to make..







And now some ground level views:













If I ever expand to the left of my current layout, I want to include these two scenes, but with tracks ! First this large building, which could be fudged with some Walthers structure kits, or maybe a Kibri kit I have..






I really want to include this scene next to a baseball field, at the end of one of the lines, with a customer just beyond...



And here are a few more pics of things I will try to include...




Looking the other way of the previous photo..




...And this cool building, that still has tracks in front of it, and it's freight door..









OK, that's it for now, I am hoping to have a track plan to share with you guys soon, so stay tuned, and as always thanks for looking , and questions and comments are always welcome!

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I know you've heard it from me before, but this is absolutely one of my favorite layouts.

A good photo backdrop, btw, will make this even better. There's a company that seems to do some more esoteric ones that would likely have something that'll work for you. I think it's the company @cbroughton67 uses. The name eludes me at the moment though.

[Edit] Found it!  http://www.tracksidescenery.com/index.php

[DKS]

I know you've heard it from me before, but this is absolutely one of my favorite layouts.

I must agree!

[coosvalley]

I must agree!

I know you've heard it from me before, but this is absolutely one of my favorite layouts.

A good photo backdrop, btw, will make this even better. There's a company that seems to do some more esoteric ones that would likely have something that'll work for you. I think it's the company @cbroughton67 uses. The name eludes me at the moment though.

[Edit] Found it!  http://www.tracksidescenery.com/index.php

Thanks guys!.The fact that other modelers whose work I enjoy like my work tells me I'm doing something right!

As far as backdrops go, I think I will print some of my own, if I can get my printer to cooperate, which it's not currently doing .I really like scenic "rural" backdrops, but most "city" backdrops I find to be a little too detailed, overshadowing the layout with it's details. I am of the opinion that the backdrop should set the stage, but not command attention of it's own. I think by printing them myself, I can "de-focus" them , and get the sizing perfect..

Some potential backdrop photos:

(will have to wait till tomorrow, as I seem to have exceeded my daily upload limit!)

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Ha.

I've done mine by stitching photos together and then using Adobe InDesign to do multi sheet printing.

Ill be happy to do some for you. No, not happy, honored.

[Lemosteam]

Um, take ^^^^^^ this guy up on that!

I will echo- each and every time i visit here, this is the first layout I look to see has been updated and I am as excited for you to add water as you are.

Cannot wait to see the second module develop.  Ant if you need those cornice decorations on that last building modeled in CAD, let me know.

[coosvalley]

I would be down for some printing help, thanks Ed!  Send me a PM...

Anywho, here is one of my ideas for the backdrop, hopefully these can be stitched together..:(I have bigger versions)

[coosvalley]

This one too:

[coosvalley]

Today I finished up this SW1. I have wanted to model one of these in their weathered state, nearing the end of it's life, showing the maroon having worn off exosing the gold undercoat/stripe color, and it's replaced blue headlight..anywho, here it is:

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/bm/bm1128adp.jpg















I also finished 5 more PS1s. This was a two car project that snowballed when I found a great deal on some C&O cars, which were a match for the B&M cars. I kept one of the C&O cars but painted the rest. Also included is an Atlas decorated car that's getting a fade and grime treatment...

First the whole fleet of 9 cars, I hadn't really focused on 40 foot cars before now, and I only owned a few. But they make my small layout seem bigger than using strictly 50 foot cars....




These two are more typical, and are based on photos..



These two have all white (no black outline) logos, and one is a 75xxx series car that had friction bearing trucks and 7 foot doors instead of the more common(on B&M) 8 foot doors




And here are the 2 Atlas painted cars..



OK, now that the workbench is cleared, on to mill painting and windows! Thanks for looking!

[Brian M]

Very cool weathering jobs, especially the two Atlas painted cars. What method did you use for getting the faded and chipped look to the logos on those two?

-Brian.

[milw12]

That Sw-1 is money 

The boxcar fleet looks great too. Heck everything on the layout looks great 

Now if I remember correctly, you use accumate couplers exclusively. Having a small switching layout myself, I'm curious about how they operate? I use body mount MT 1015's fwiw.

-Lucas

[coosvalley]

Very cool weathering jobs, especially the two Atlas painted cars. What method did you use for getting the faded and chipped look to the logos on those two?

-Brian.

Thanks!..I "chipped" them using solvaset, let it soak for a min, and rub with a toothpick. A word about this, often the first pass has no visible result, but you have to rub all of it at least once to get the solvaset to start softening the ink, and usually the second try removes what you rub...apply more and rub as needed.This is how I remove any Atlas pad printed lettering without damaging the paint.  The fades are washes of light blue,(B&M) or brown(C&O), I taped off the B&M car to keep the blue where it belongs..Hope this helps!

That Sw-1 is money 

The boxcar fleet looks great too. Heck everything on the layout looks great 

Now if I remember correctly, you use accumate couplers exclusively. Having a small switching layout myself, I'm curious about how they operate? I use body mount MT 1015's fwiw.

-Lucas

Thanks to you too!

I have been very happy with the Accumates, the biggest reason I prefer them is they don't do the "slinky", but still work well for switching unlike the TSCs.  Most of the cars I've been using have body mounts, and usually they drop right in place of the original MT or clones. I also have some which are truck mounted, and for the most part everything plays nice ove my 11 inch radius S-curve bridge.I have heard some reports they start to fail in long trains, but I won't be having that problem. Sometimes, if the inner "nub" gets damaged they won't work well, and should be replaced, but it's not common if you're reasonably gentle with them.I use a simple wire pick tool for them, I have a hole it sits in next to the control panel.They also work well with MTs , even the Z scale ones, which is a nice bonus, I use those on my SW1s as the pilots are only big enough for those. I hope this helps!