Backdrop material suggestions wanted

[nickelplate759]

I'm starting a small new layout at home (Huzzah!).  The last time I did this I made the backdrop from Masonite, coved in the corners, painted with latex interior paint.   This worked OK, but the seams were difficult to hide (I taped and spackled them as if they were drywall), and one seam cracked a few months after being finished.     I'm wondering what other alternatives people might recommend.    The new layout's backdrop will wrap around 3 walls;  it will be about 30" high, and around 24' long.

George

[Scottl]

I use 1/8" hardboard, but the key to solid joins and no cracks is to secure both ends with glue and screws before tape and mud.  I have not had any issues.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I've been using this vinyl flashing that @mmyers turned me onto. I like it (although I haven't painted it yet).

[nickelplate759]

any pointers to sources for the vinyl flashing, and on how to finish it?  How wide does it come?

George

[Santa Fe Guy]

In the extension of my SFRSD I used 3mm MDF. It was a lot easier to cove the corners than Masonite and the paint went on really well. Scott is correct glue, screw and then patch. Some of the tape that is used is not as good as good as it used to be either. Ask a good plasterer in your area what type of tape is best. I believe there is paper and fiber types. One will crack the other is a little more forgiving. Wish I did that.
Rod.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Sorry, meant to include a link. I got mine from Lowes.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_233813-18591-VRFWH1050_0__?productId=3359584

[mark.hinds]

I am hoping to use a continuous piece of plastic (type TBD, but it would be 2 feet high, and about 25 feet long) from a nearby plastic supply house, thus avoiding joints.  It would be thick enough to stand straight, but thin enough to bend around the 30-inch-radius-plus inside corners.  I have the vague idea that it can be spray-painted various shades of blue, such that the paint would not interfere with bending, and could be back-lit it for sunsets, etc.  If back-lit, it would require use of clear Plexiglass rod supports instead of lumber.  Distant hills, buildings and such would be a separate layer in front of the blue plastic "sky", as on the NEB&W.  I know this sounds weird, but I think it is do-able. 

MH

[nkalanaga]

Mine is taller, but I used vinyl flooring.  Three scrap roll ends cost a few dollars, were easy to trim to size with a utility knife, and the back painted very nicely with a brush and some cheap latex paint.  The front surface is almost unpaintable, like any vinyl, but the back is made for gluing, and paint sticks very nicely.  I nailed it to the walls with roofing nails, at each stud, one nail at the top and one at the bottom, which is a few inches below the top of the benchwork.  The bottom nails are hidden, and the top painted over.

[jmarley76]

I use 1/8" hardboard, but the key to solid joins and no cracks is to secure both ends with glue and screws before tape and mud.  I have not had any issues.

I also use 1/8 hard board. It takes paint nicely and it is usually less than $10.00 for a 4x8' sheet. Plus if you ask them at Lowes (and I think Home Depot does the same), they will cut it into the length and size you want. Also while your there, check and see if you can find a nice sky blue in the mis-tints over in the paint section. Mis-tints are usually very cheap, so if it is close enough, go for it. That said, you can get out with 32 sq.ft. of back drop and paint for less than $20.

[LIRR]

I used 0.080 styrene. I was able to get 4' x 8' sheets from a local supplier. It was easy to roll-up and get them in the back set of the car. I cut them into 16" wide x 8' strips.

[nickelplate759]

I used 0.080 styrene. I was able to get 4' x 8' sheets from a local supplier. It was easy to roll-up and get them in the back set of the car. I cut them into 16" wide x 8' strips.

Interesting.  How did you finish the seams?

George

[Scottl]

I also use 1/8 hard board. It takes paint nicely and it is usually less than $10.00 for a 4x8' sheet. Plus if you ask them at Lowes (and I think Home Depot does the same), they will cut it into the length and size you want. Also while your there, check and see if you can find a nice sky blue in the mis-tints over in the paint section. Mis-tints are usually very cheap, so if it is close enough, go for it. That said, you can get out with 32 sq.ft. of back drop and paint for less than $20.

My Home Depot cut it for me too- nice and easy to bring home.  It is so cheap I don't care if the other half of the sheet is unused, it was only $9 (Canadian, no less!)

[nickelplate759]

Thanks for the ideas. I'm leaning towards using 1/8 Masonite again.  I'd like suggestions on painting techniques.  Last time I used flat interior latex,  but I ended up with too much texture in the finish. I painted it like a wall with a ruler for the base coat, then used a brush to blend in a very light blue to make haze near the horizon.  I liked the look but not the visible texture.  Any suggestions for technique?

George

[jmarley76]

I liked the look but not the visible texture.

Make sure you use the smooth side... I use masonite a lot for plein air painting, and if you use the rough side, it will be very textured. The opposite side is very smooth and applying the paint with a roller or very nice brush will keep it that way.

[nickelplate759]

I do use the smooth side.  The texture I'm referring to is in the finished paint itself, not the board.

George