Bachmann heavyweight coaches...anyone bite?

[Sokramiketes]

Very, very early P70s had a similar slot in the side (hard to say why).  Really hard to find a photo with this but they do exist.

This is the image from Some Classic Trains (Dubin) showing the belt rail anomaly... I've seen it called a slot, and also a darker painted stripe.



Car body construction wise, I have trouble rationalizing a slot or notch in this area.  Reflections seem to carry over painted sides through the anomaly, adding credence to the painted stripe theory.

[Dave V]

...versus how the least-modernized among the P70 fleet looked by the 50s:

[thomasjmdavis]

Looking at the beltrail in this photo (Penn railroad museum) it looks like rather than a "slot", there is a strip added to the upper inch of the beltrail, which would create a shadow.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/chryslerbob/7748100588

[bbussey]

I'm saying the opposite happened. Maybe I got them too wet. Maybe I used used Solvaset, but anyways, it's helpful to know your process. I'll give it another shot. Thanks!
It looks like there is so much depth in your trucks. They just look SO GOOD.

Solvaset disintegrates Microscale and other similarly delicate decals. Either dilute it or stick with MicroSol.

[Dave V]

Solvaset disintegrates Microscale and other similarly delicate decals. Either dilute it or stick with MicroSol.

This.  I switched from Solvaset to MicroSol when I couldn't find the former at my previous LHS.  Very glad I did.  Not using Solvaset again (unless it's to remove lettering).

Of course, now my LHS is essentially Caboose Hobbies...   

[chicken45]

...versus how the least-modernized among the P70 fleet looked by the 50s:

I've always thought that picture was interesting. It's on the cover of this:

I found it odd that for being taken in January 1961, how great the cars look. The book notes that they were freshly painted.  Taken at Paoli. Usually everything looked terrible in the 60's. Maybe it's just the late 60's cars that look bad.  Interesting to see black grab irons. I thought they were silver or Tuscan.

[jmlaboda]

Interesting that the Lima roof appears to be much more correct. Perhaps the Bachmann car is a "looser" interpretation or maybe a P70 that has been rebuilt somewhat (no windows on the ends for example).

That isn't the case.  It largely depends on when the specific coach was built.  Those with the slotted sides have the same odd roof as the Lima and Minitrix cars have while later cars have a roof similar to the Bachmann model, though with large vertical grills in the area where the older cars have the curved pieces.

The Pennsylvania RR pages at the Passenger Car Photo Index has many "P70" coaches and all of the variations that came out of the original design.  Its interesting to see how things are from coach to coach or series to series, with some interesting variations being documented in photographs.  For any who would want to compare the Bachmann model to the prototype I would say check the Index.  You'll be surprised at what you might find...

http://passcarphotos.info/Indices/PRR1.htm

[C62-2]

The best luck I've had putting PRR stripes on is by floating the stripes into place using just water (enough on the surface of the car so that the whole piece of stripe can be moved at once. Once the stripe is in the right place, carefully remove as much of the water as you can without moving the stripe, using the edge of a kleenex. Once everything is dried, I go back and use microset to get it better attached, and then microsol, if needed.

[Sokramiketes]

Solvaset disintegrates Microscale and other similarly delicate decals. Either dilute it or stick with MicroSol.

I've never had Solvaset disintegrate a decal!  I like that it is strong.  The key is not to freak out when the decal shrivels up.  It will lay back down, just don't touch it while the solvaset is working.

This also means that you want the decal to have most of the water out of the way from soaking it, so it has locked into place a bit.  Then flood with Solvaset and stand back.  It will make Microscale's feathered edges all but disappear into a smooth surface.

[peteski]

I've never had Solvaset disintegrate a decal!  I like that it is strong.  The key is not to freak out when the decal shrivels up.  It will lay back down, just don't touch it while the solvaset is working.

This also means that you want the decal to have most of the water out of the way from soaking it, so it has locked into place a bit.  Then flood with Solvaset and stand back.  It will make Microscale's feathered edges all but disappear into a smooth surface.

Yes, the technique can make a big difference.  I use all the decal setting products mentioned above and few others I picked up from my automotive plastic model kit hobby.  Various brands of decals (including home-made ones)  require different types of setting solutions for best results.

[chicken45]

Anyone ever have issues where the decals "meld" in to the paint after Solvaset application?  I had a heckuva time removing a detail that I just put on was solvaset.  It was like it "softened" the paint  and made it tacky.

[peteski]

Anyone ever have issues where the decals "meld" in to the paint after Solvaset application?  I had a heckuva time removing a detail that I just put on was solvaset.  It was like it "softened" the paint  and made it tacky.

Yes, Solvaset can do that (with certain brand of decals and paints).  Solvaset seems to contain some type of alcohol which can soften the paint under the decal.

[Dave V]

Schwing!

[Lemosteam]

@Dave Vollmer , where' ya get the trucks?  Spill!

[Dave V]

@Dave Vollmer , where' ya get the trucks?  Spill!

What?  Those are stock!  Sorry about the photo quality...they're not 2D-P5s.