Kato GS4 Driver Replacement Tutorial

[mmagliaro]

That looks like it should work fine.  When I made that whole U channel thing, I could not find a piece of tubing that would
clear the axle and also fit in that slot and also allow the cover plate to lay down on there.  So good on ya.
As long as you get the length very precise so the bearings can wiggle "just a little" but not cave in, I don't see why that shouldn't
work.

[Dwight in Toronto]

Thanks Max - that’s a big confidence boost, hearing that you think it should work.

I don’t even know what size that styrene tube is - it was in a variety pack of Evergreen “Assorted Tube & Rod”.  Gut feel is that it should do the trick. 

I hope that the bearings in driver #2 stay in place.  I didn’t do anything extra there, and I don’t relish the thought of having to do encore surgery at some point down the road.  I suppose I should have done the same reinforcement while I was at it, but I didn’t know if the tube “sheath” would be a valid fix.

I’m sure that performing the driver upgrade gets quicker/smoother with experience, but I can’t imagine Kelley going through this time after time after time - that is really something!

[nightmare0331]

You've got it.  Sorry...I didn't see your message asking for pics/video until earlier this morning.

It looks like you have it sorted out for sure. 

Reinserting the pins is a fun time.  I use a combination of a set of serrated tweezers (to hold the pin) and a round toothpick that the end has been cut flat to press the pins back straight in.

I have a scrap GS4 sitting around I use as a guide for the 2nd driver/square pegged crankshaft pin as I too also put them in either 90 degrees of 180 degrees off if I don't reference it. 

At one point, I could do a full driver set replacement in under 10 minutes.  It's been a bit since I've done them in mass though.  Occasionally one comes through my shop for a LokSound install that needs drivers also so I get to relive the experience but I'm not in a huge rush.

Anyhoo...enjoy!

Kelley.

[Dwight in Toronto]

Full upgrade in under 10 minutes!  WOW!

I was really fretting over those crank pins, super worried about seeing one pop out of the tweezers, or while trying to press them back into place.  My magnifying visors were slipping down my forehead because of the beads of sweat!

The chances of finding a lost one are next to zero, and then what does one do?  There are no spares listed on the Kato parts website (perhaps a telephone enquiry might rustle some up?).  Fortunately, I didn’t have any butter-finger incidents this time around, but the likelihood is so very high with this procedure.  NOT a fun upgrade!

[peteski]

Since odds of losing crankpins while servicing are rather high I always strive to have additional crankpins for locos I service.   I'm well stocked up on the GS-4/FEF3 pins (they both use the same pins), and they are inexpensively available at Kato:  https://store.katousa.com/product/n-gs4-fef-crank-pin-n-scale/ It is the shipping charge that kills you!   

[Maletrain]

Instead of using tweezers to position the tiny crank pins over the holes before pressing them in, could you use a piece of clear (Scotch) tape to hold the head of the pin so you can see that it lines up properly, and then push on the pin head through the tape to insert the pin? maybe use tweezers to nudge the rods into alignment with the hole. Seems like that would reduce the likelihood of a pin flying away when the tweezers slip.  (I'm asking because I am approaching the need to do it.)

[Hedron]

Tape is a good idea, though I find the top if the pin is so tiny and smooth that it won't stick to the tape reliably. I put the pin in the hole of one of the side rods with tweezers and choice words, then use that as the holder to swing the pin into position. A tiny bit of tape here helps to keep the pin in the side rod hole as you find the spot.

[Dwight in Toronto]

Peter - nice to know about the spare pins - I absolutely would have included two of those packets in my recent order if I had seen them on the website.  I’m pretty sure they aren’t included in the GS4 section, and I never would have thought to look for them under one of the other models.

[peteski]

Peter - nice to know about the spare pins - I absolutely would have included two of those packets in my recent order if I had seen them on the website.  I’m pretty sure they aren’t included in the GS4 section, and I never would have thought to look for them under one of the other models.

They are listed in the GS-4 section on page 2.
https://store.katousa.com/product-category/kato-parts/n-scale-parts/n-steam-locomotive-parts/n-4-8-4-gs-4-parts/page/2/

[Dwight in Toronto]

…… doing my best Homer Simpson ….. “Doh !!!”

[mmagliaro]

I did this video years ago (how I put crankpins back in) and it happened to use the GS4 as the demonstration engine.
Maybe this will be helpful.  The key for me is to have a finger or tweezer blade over the top of the crankpin at all times
when pushing it in, so it can't squib out of the tweezers and go flying.  That's why I get them started with an actual fingernail.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7j3J1j6xjMM

[Dwight in Toronto]

Thanks Max - I had watched that video a couple of times before having a go at the pins, and it was helpful indeed.