Kershaw Tie Crane

[Scottl]

Another stellar piece of MOW equipment from Showcase Miniatures.  Very nice looking model.

http://www.showcaseminiatures.net/n-scale-vehicles.html

[Santa Fe Guy]

I have to agree Scott, they do some awesome stuff for us in N.
Rod.

[peteski]

Awesome but I really wish that they would use brass (not stainless steel) for the parts.  It is stiffer than brass, but in this type of application that is not really an important factor (assembled cab will be plenty stiff due to its shape). I prefer to solder things like that. Soldering results in much cleaner and stronger assembly (no futzing with CA glue).  Stainless steel can be soldered but it is much more difficult. The solder will not flow into the joints like with fluxed brass.  That is one of the reasons brass models are made of ... brass.

[jmlaboda]

Anyone know when these were first put into service?

[C855B]

Awesome but I really wish that they would use brass (not stainless steel) for the parts. ... Soldering results in much cleaner and stronger assembly (no futzing with CA glue).  Stainless steel can be soldered but it is much more difficult. ...

This is my exact issue with the signals. Soldering the ladders and platforms would result in a much stronger unit. CA is a real bugger especially during assembly where you might have to put a little pressure on something for alignment. I had the mast, ladder and safety railings all done... I thought... in prep to receive the LED head. Picked it up for painting and the thing just crumbled in my hand. It's hard to get a secure CA joint with these ultra-fine etch wires without globbing it. Soldering, I could do.

[James Costello]

Awesome but I really wish that they would use brass (not stainless steel) for the parts.  It is stiffer than brass, but in this type of application that is not really an important factor (assembled cab will be plenty stiff due to its shape). I prefer to solder things like that. Soldering results in much cleaner and stronger assembly (no futzing with CA glue).  Stainless steel can be soldered but it is much more difficult. The solder will not flow into the joints like with fluxed brass.  That is one of the reasons brass models are made of ... brass.

So when you emailed them this suggestion Peteski, what did they say?

[Scottl]

I'm a glue person myself, so I don't have an issue with this, but I do agree that sending them a suggestion would probably be well received.  I'm quite impressed with this company on a number of fronts.

[peteski]

I have corresponded with Walter and Debbie on several different subject - they are both very  helpful and receptive to ideas presented to them.

Some recent communications I had were about:

Request to re-issue Phat Boys Diner - it was reissued.

Problem with the trailer tongue of the hot-dog stand: problem was noted, explained  and resolved.

Problem with molding quality of the KW tractor and the I-type truck : problem noted, explained  and resolved.

Suggested using brass instead of stainless on the Ballast Regulator : Suggestion declined.  IIRC the explanation was that brass didn't have enough strength in the thickness they use.   Too bad becuase of the difficulty of cleanly and precisely be able to solder the parts together. I realize that I'm in a small minority of modelers who solder photoetched kits, but it would still have been nice.

Due to the above I don't think suggesting using brass on this kit woudl be any different than on the ballast regulator.  I'm not going to bother.

Suggested adding mounting pegs to the N scale rear view mirrors for cleaner installation  (like they H0 version has): Suggestion declined.  Too difficult for modelers to accurately drill tiny holes in the models.

Suggested using a odorless resin for their cast parts (because I hate the strong mothball small of their resin).  Many resin kits manufacturers now use odor-free resin : Suggestion declined - they use an outside vendor for the resin parts and they have no control of what resin is used.


As you can see, I have been in communication with them for some time.  Some of my suggestions have been accepted and all the problems have been resolved. Showcase Miniatures is very receptive to their customer's input and with all the well-picked new products they are producing, I predict that they will continue to be a very successful company in the years to come. But I guess they cannot please everybody all the time.  But I also  disagree with some construction methods or material choices they make.

As far as soldering goes, without soldering I could have never cleanly assembled N scale kits such as these (not Showcase Miniatures).

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[daniel_leavitt2000]

Pete, everyone has a medium they are most comfortable with. Obviously Walter likes pewter, and to a lesser extent resin, laser cut wood and etched steel.  I am happy with his choice of materials.

Also note these frets are often combined, so it may be on the same tray as their side view mirrors or something else that needs to be steel.

Oh, on an unrelated note, Showcase is back to using clamshell plastic cases for their kits. They also have a great resin box truck body available separately.

[peteski]

Pete, everyone has a medium they are most comfortable with. Obviously Walter likes pewter, and to a lesser extent resin, laser cut wood and etched steel.  I am happy with his choice of materials.

Also note these frets are often combined, so it may be on the same tray as their side view mirrors or something else that needs to be steel.

I simply disagree that the cab parts for either kit need the strength of stainless steel.  Brass would be more universal as it can easily be or glued just as readily.  I have no problem with the other materials used (I only object the strong odor of the resin).  But you could be correct that there are many frets for different models etched together. But still, that don't help my modeling.   But I do actively contact model companies with my suggestions (as you all know, I'm not shy). 

[Hornwrecker]

I think a low temp, silver bearing solder (5-7% Ag / the rest Sn) will solder stainless steel together.  I have some, but don't have any thin stainless to try it on, also, it's been a long time since I've used it, so I might be remembering it incorrectly.  I'll have to do some research on it, and post results.

[peteski]

Stainless can be soldered but it is not nearly as easy as brass. The solder also does wick as freely into the joint.  Using hobby grade fluxes (no hazardous acids) and methods, brass is a lot easier to solder.

That is most likely the main reason for all the brass models to be made out of ... brass.  It is much more friendly to work with.  Anyways, I just posted my opinion. I am not keen on soldering stainless steel.  That's all.

[Denver Road Doug]

Suggested adding mounting pegs to the N scale rear view mirrors for cleaner installation  (like they H0 version has): Suggestion declined.  Too difficult for modelers to accurately drill tiny holes in the models.

Huh?   That doesn't sound like something that a company that makes vehicles the size of a dime would say. (not questioning you, just meaning it seems kinda funny to me that would come out of their mouths.)

Anyway, glad you mentioned that...I was about to order mirrors along with the tie crane so that saved me $6.

[peteski]

Huh?   That doesn't sound like something that a company that makes vehicles the size of a dime would say. (not questioning you, just meaning it seems kinda funny to me that would come out of their mouths.)

Anyway, glad you mentioned that...I was about to order mirrors along with the tie crane so that saved me $6.

Walter told me that it would be difficult for modelers to precisely drill holes in metal cabs (he was talking about his Showcase's cast vehicles).  He then went on to say that just gluing them to the surface should be sufficient.  I mentioned that doing so will be much messier than being able to apply glue just to the drilled holes, but he wasn't receptive to the idea.  I even mentioned that if the mirrors came with pegs, less precise modelers could easily snip them off, but it is impossible for more-skilled modelers to add the pegs to the etchings. 

I would say that you should still buy the mirrors (like I did)  and contact Showcase with the suggestion to add the mounting pegs - maybe if they get enough suggestions they will change the artwork for the next run.

Speaking of the lack of mounting pegs, the same problem exists with etched locomotive windshield wipers.  Some brands do not have any mounting pegs (or they are too short).  They expect you to just glue them to the surface of the model.   I buy the ones with pegs.

[Scottl]

Sounds like you were not receptive to his suggestion of gluing the mirrors