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If not taking the Leafs seriously is a criteria for failure then units shipped anywhere near 90% of their own fanbase this year should be failing.I am curious though Mike...you said Dan worked on the units for hours. What needed so much work? That sounds like serious tinkering which sounds like a "fiddly" (rather than robust) design. In my experience, design margin (lattitude) is needed for production to run smoothly. If something fails QC you swap out a whole assembly *or ship the customer a new unit* rather than spending the time tweaking it. Tweaks have a bad habit of moving over time and unit to unit. And some times you just have to accept that a lemon will come off the line, especially if the design spec is really tight, and the lemons need to be scrapped as bad yield rather than trying to patch them.Just curious...MdI agree however if we don't figure out what the root cause is then we'll never get a fix.. Without having spoken with Dan I am sure he laboured over the units, confident he could find the issue as opposed to just grabbing another unit or two; that's Dan... he never says die.... I will be speaking with him Monday and we will go over the process.
When I got my sound-equipped GMD-1, the wheel gauge was narrow, but it ran beautifully, particularly after tweaking some of the ESU LokSound's BEMF parameters. Then I gauged the wheels, and started having the same sypmtoms that Mark Dance had. I took the engine off the track, and noticed that after re-gauging the wheels, the wheels seemed "tight" in the trucks; they no longer had the slight bit of back-and-forth free play they did before the gauging. After some trial and error, what I concluded is that the plastic truck sideframes were pushing in on the bearing strips, and gauging the wheels made the axles just enough longer (as a result of moving the wheels outward to get the gauge correct) that two of the wheelsets (on the front truck) were now binding. When I pushed the wheels back in, they were fine. So what I did was take a pair of flat tweezers and tried to ever-so-slightly bend the bearing cups outward. That fixed my problem - at least for now. But, what I fear is that the plastic truck frames will continue to exert pressure on the bearing cups, causing them to bend back in, and that eventually the wheels will start binding again.What I think I'm going to have to do to make a permanent fix is take the trucks completely apart, and scrape off a bit of the plastic on the inside of the truck frame where the frame contacts the wheel bearing strips, then bend the cups out ever-so-slightly to provide more side-to-side "play" in the wheelsets when properly gauged.My observations might be consistent with what happened to Mark's units - they might have run fine after Dan's adjusting, but if the plastic truck sideframes are exerting inward pressure on the bearing cups, then over time these cups would tend to bend back inward, causing binding and causing the motor to burn up if one tried to run them at sustained high speed.Mike, if you haven't checked this possibility, do so. I might be wrong about it (it won't be the first or last time), but it seems to be what I observed with my own unit. And if I'm right, then the cause would be the plastic truck frames being just a hair too small (narrow), which in turn exerts pressure on the bearing cups. When the wheels are gauged narrow, all is fine, but if you gauge them correctly, the expanded length causes issues.John Colombo
We did; the truck frame is to spec and although it has the potential to rub, it only does so on the out of gauge axles. We are manufacturing new axle sets and will send them free of charge to anyone who asks us. We'll be posting a You Tube video on how to swap them out as well. I'm hoping that we'll have the new axle sets within three weeks.
Any update on when new axles will arrive? Joe DSorry, I'm asking too soon. Don't know how to delete a post here.
I need to send an end flap from jewel box, right? Joe D