Temporary snow

[peteski]

All the hydrocal snow on the log bunks in the photo you are referring to is temporary and it was removed after the shoot by just blowing it off. 

The snow piled on the tracks and surrounding scenery (rocks, ground cover, plow, flanger, loco, etc.) for the second shot with the plow was vacuumed up.  The underlying scenery needs to be "vaccuumable" (if that is a word) of course.

md

I'm not sure if I understand this correctly.  I imagined a summer scene where temporary snow was placed, then later vacuumed up to bring it back to its original (luscious green) appearance.  It sounds like your winter scenes are permanent and the temporary snow was just added for photos (as it would otherwise impeding the normal running of trains).  I might have also misunderstood the original question about totally removable snow.

[mark dance]

I'm not sure if I understand this correctly.  I imagined a summer scene where temporary snow was placed, then later vacuumed up to bring it back to its original (luscious green) appearance.  It sounds like your winter scenes are permanent and the temporary snow was just added for photos (as it would otherwise impeding the normal running of trains).  I might have also misunderstood the original question about totally removable snow.

I can't speak to the intent of the original poster or the follow along question...

Hi Folks,
  I am wondering what to use for snow, just for one scene for a photo. I've heard of flour in the past, don't think so!
 Then I want to remove it, to get back to layout work.
 Thanks,
    Joe D

I have used LW Hydrocal for this purpose.  The second photo I posted shows it piled up on the rocks and roadbed of a "fall scene" with a plow plowing through it and temporary snow all over the equipment.   I vacuumed it up off the roadbed, and surrounding rocks and ground cover and trains were running no problem immediately afterwards and have done for 3 years since that shot was taken. 

Very quickly after the first question...

And for a permanent application?

The first photo I posted shows a permanent snow scene following Mike Danneman's procedures which used thoroughly wetted LW Hydrocal for smoothly flowing snow banks and ARM marble dust between the rails.  The additional temporary snow added to the tops of the log bunks and rails was also hydrocal and also was vacuumed up/blown off after that shot and has been problem free ever since.

My apologies if there has been any confusion created by my replies to these questions.  If I can provide any further information on the scenes or my application please let me know.

md

[Nato]

   30 Years ago on the upper level mountain area on my previous layout I used flower. I first took Seran Wrap and put on all the flat  (ground areas) also cut some and put on the flat roofs of a couple of buildings. I masked the track while the flour was sifted on. Then the tape was removed. Kept the flower on for about a half month one December. Then vacuumed it all off, except the Plastic Wrap which I carefully pulled up keeping the loose flour on and in the wrap. I never repeated this . Was worried about the problems the flour might cause. Nate Goodman (Nato).

[carlso]

Here are some shots of an NTrak module I made several years ago. It won "Best Module" at the Oklahoma City Train Show back in 2004. I used baking soda and I think it looks rather convincing. However, as someone else mentioned earlier, some guys who ran on it said the baking soda caused conductivity problems with their wheels. I don't set up modules anymore, so it comes out at Christmas time and sits on my piano. Maybe in a couple of days, I'll have the FEF and all set up on it








The lights and stars are fiber optics, approx. 1,500 feet of various sized fibers, with only 3 LEDs (white,red,green) illuminating them.

Thanks for looking and I hope you enjoyed.

Carl

[Lemosteam]

The first photo I posted shows a permanent snow scene following Mike Danneman's procedures which used thoroughly wetted LW Hydrocal for smoothly flowing snow banks and ARM marble dust between the rails.  The additional temporary snow added to the tops of the log bunks and rails was also hydrocal and also was vacuumed up/blown off after that shot and has been problem free ever since.

My apologies if there has been any confusion created by my replies to these questions.  If I can provide any further information on the scenes or my application please let me know.

md

Mike, (and others),

First thanks for answering my OT question, and forgive my ignorance to the term "wetted".  What is the process of "wetting"?  Is it similar to what folks do with ballast?  If yes, with Hydrocal, does it simply crust over or must it be soaked fully to the substrate?

[mark dance]

Mike, (and others),

First thanks for answering my OT question, and forgive my ignorance to the term "wetted".  What is the process of "wetting"?  Is it similar to what folks do with ballast?  If yes, with Hydrocal, does it simply crust over or must it be soaked fully to the substrate?

Hi John...for the hydrocal it is a delicate operation of lightly misting with water until it becomes fully saturated and is just about to flow.  I went through a dozen misters until I found one gentle enough which produced very very fine drops: a perfume bottle which can be refilled with water (a rare thing these days).  I like it because the drift surfaces are smooth and don't look like powder piled up.  They also stay put.

Mike Danneman describes his technique in his published snow articles.

Hope that helps

md

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I used baking soda and I think it looks rather convincing. However, as someone else mentioned earlier, some guys who ran on it said the baking soda caused conductivity problems with their wheels.

Yikes!!!    

[Lemosteam]

mike,

It does and thank you!  I am considering making removable "snow panels" for my heavyweight cars, and It may be best of I use the WS snow to keep the panel flexible.  if i use something that can crack, it might not be best.