Killashandra - Irish Nn3

[peteski]

The 7.4amps is the power supply itself. I've come to learn that no one ever puts the real specs on power supplies. The one i'm using now is a Radio Shack 12v power supply that says 1500mA on the front.

My meter has a volts setting for the thousands place, but it got no reading. The power supply is good and the generator is getting power, and it sorta works, but not much. And no spark.
And as for polarity, I've tried the power supply both ways, and can't tell the difference performance-wise. It must not make a difference.

My grounding pin is a little 1" length of ME code 40 rail.

Geez Cody, I don't know where to begin.    Aren't you studying to be an electrician? 

Yes, wall-wart power packs specs are not exact - they are usually just unregulated, filtered DC voltage.  The output voltage with no load is usually quite a bit higher than what they are rated for. Why? Because the rated voltage is measured under full load.  So if you have a 12V, 1.5A  A wall-wart (power supply), if you measure a no-load voltage, it will probably be around 18V.  If you were to place a load on it which consumes around 1.5A of current then measure the output voltage, it will be close to 12V.

But using an ammeter as a short across their output (to measure maximum current is not the way to go).  You are basically shorting out the poor power supply - that is not good for them.  I'm actually surprised that the short-circuit current was as high as what you measured.  Anyways, don't do that! 

As far as polarity is concerned, the ion generator (and other electronic devices in general) are very sensitive to polarity. Unless they have a built-in reverse-polarity protection, hooking the power backwards can often irreversibly damage them.  Draw your own conclusions...  If you aren't 100% sure that the first time you properly connected the positive and negative leads of the supply to the ion generator, you might have already fried it.

For measuring voltages, yes, your meter has a range with shows thousands. But look at its faceplate - it should clearly show the maximum safe AC and DC voltage ratings.  All the multimeters I have ever worked with had those ratings readily visible (usually next to where the test leads plug in).  Consumer-grade (non-specialty) multimeters are usually not rated (or safe) for measuring more than 1000VDC. Maybe 1500VDC.

The specs for your ion generator state its output to be around 9000V  Do you see what I mean?  Even if you think that the Ion generator is not producing a full voltage, do you really want to take a chance and try to measure it?  How do you know whether the partial voltage generated is 500, 1000, or 5000 Volts?  You see where I'm going?

If there is no spark where there is supposed to be 9000V, and you verified that the power supply is properly (polarity-wise) hooked up to the ion generator then there is a good chance the generator is toasted.  I'm curious what (of any) current is flowing from the supply to the generator. The specs say that a working generator should consume around 0.1A (100mA).

[VonRyan]

It would help if they labeled which wire is which. Putting words or stripes on one tells me nothing. And it would help if radio shack put diagrams for their headphone-like plugs/sockets on the packaging. It would save me from having to debate whether or not I want to cut one into pieces to see which contact goes to which solder point.

[Chris333]

The center is plus as found on my phone while sitting at work.

[nuno81291]

Personally never came across a wall wart that didnt have tip/ring labeled... look closer. We go through hundreds of these little guys dealing with music gear.

[VonRyan]

Except none of the working power supplies that I possess have any kind of tip or plug on the end. They really need to write it on the casings which is which.
For plugs and such, I had to use some plugs/sockets that I had bought a few years back for another project. But they still don't tell me what is what.

[peteski]

The zip-cord on wall-warts usually has a stripe printed along one of the conductors. That IIRC, is usually positive.  But since you are a proud owner of a multimeter, you can easily determine the polarity (of any power supply's output) just by taking a reading of its output voltage (noting whether the reading shows as positive or negative). I'll let you figure out how that tells you the polarity. 

[VonRyan]

The zip-cord on wall-warts usually has a stripe printed along one of the conductors. That IIRC, is usually positive.  But since you are a proud owner of a multimeter, you can easily determine the polarity (of any power supply's output) just by taking a reading of its output voltage (noting whether the reading shows as positive or negative). I'll let you figure out how that tells you the polarity. 

But it won't tell me whether or not the ion generator has been fried.

[VonRyan]

And no, the layout won't end up in a landfill.
Unless someone can lend me a properly functioning static grass applicator that can arrive here by the 20th, I'll end up just boxing everything up and putting it in my basement to be forgotten, just like my N-Trak module.

After being so close to getting this to a relative station of "completion" and having it be on time for the Atlantic City
N-Scale Gathering on the 23rd and 24th, with the odds now saying that it won't be "done" in time, I have a pretty sour taste in my mouth about the whole thing.

[Dave V]

And no, the layout won't end up in a landfill.
Unless someone can lend me a properly functioning static grass applicator that can arrive here by the 20th, I'll end up just boxing everything up and putting it in my basement to be forgotten, just like my N-Trak module.

After being so close to getting this to a relative station of "completion" and having it be on time for the Atlantic City
N-Scale Gathering on the 23rd and 24th, with the odds now saying that it won't be "done" in time, I have a pretty sour taste in my mouth about the whole thing.

Why is it always an ultimatum for someone else to come in to rescue you?  You're getting lots of help in this thread if you would only calm down and listen.

[ChristianJDavis1]

And no, the layout won't end up in a landfill.
Unless someone can lend me a properly functioning static grass applicator that can arrive here by the 20th, I'll end up just boxing everything up and putting it in my basement to be forgotten, just like my N-Trak module.

After being so close to getting this to a relative station of "completion" and having it be on time for the Atlantic City
N-Scale Gathering on the 23rd and 24th, with the odds now saying that it won't be "done" in time, I have a pretty sour taste in my mouth about the whole thing.

Nobody said it had to be done for the show. We just wanted you to bring it to show everyone the awesome work you have been doing. The first time you brought it it was not even close to what it is now. Maybe by bringing it you will find someone who can help you troubleshoot.

[160pennsy]

And no, the layout won't end up in a landfill.
Unless someone can lend me a properly functioning static grass applicator that can arrive here by the 20th, I'll end up just boxing everything up and putting it in my basement to be forgotten, just like my N-Trak module.

After being so close to getting this to a relative station of "completion" and having it be on time for the Atlantic City
N-Scale Gathering on the 23rd and 24th, with the odds now saying that it won't be "done" in time, I have a pretty sour taste in my mouth about the whole thing.

Cody,

Not sure why you're obsessing over getting a static grass applicator. The primary reason you need it is to fix the area that got scraped away during your earlier work on the stream bed. Just put some temporary ground foam and rocks on that small section to patch it and move on. Finish the stream by adding some water and fill in the rest of the layout with other scenic elements like trees, stone walls, sheep, figures, etc. Clean the tracks, test your engines & rolling stock and spend your time getting it ready for display. You can always go back, remove the temporary scenery in that corner and add static grass down the road when you finally get a working grassinator.

[peteski]

But it won't tell me whether or not the ion generator has been fried.

That's correct, but it should prevent future mishaps.

From what you described you did to the ion generator (and what it is not doing) I would say it is a pretty safe bet that it is fried.

Is there a Harbor Freight store near you?  Those usually carry inexpensive electronic fly swatters which can be made into static grass applicators.

[VonRyan]

Why is it always an ultimatum for someone else to come in to rescue you?  You're getting lots of help in this thread if you would only calm down and listen.

It's not an ultimatum for someone else. It's an either or for myself.

Cody,

Not sure why you're obsessing over getting a static grass applicator. The primary reason you need it is to fix the area that got scraped away during your earlier work on the stream bed. Just put some temporary ground foam and rocks on that small section to patch it and move on. Finish the stream by adding some water and fill in the rest of the layout with other scenic elements like trees, stone walls, sheep, figures, etc. Clean the tracks, test your engines & rolling stock and spend your time getting it ready for display. You can always go back, remove the temporary scenery in that corner and add static grass down the road when you finally get a working grassinator.

Water was about the only thing I was willing to concede not being done since I have not found anything that won't creep up the banks and the masonry.
Googling "model water no creep" "scale water no creep" "diorama water no creep" "fake water no creep" hasn't gotten me anywhere.

[peteski]

Water was about the only thing I was willing to concede not being done since I have not found anything that won't creep up the banks and the masonry.
Googling "model water no creep" "scale water no creep" "diorama water no creep" "fake water no creep" hasn't gotten me anywhere.

I don't think you'll find any such liquid out there.  The only "water" which does I know not to creep is a piece of clear acrylic (Plexiglas), either smooth or textured, used to represent water with scenery applied over it.

[VonRyan]

I don't think you'll find any such liquid out there.  The only "water" which does I know not to creep is a piece of clear acrylic (Plexiglas), either smooth or textured, used to represent water with scenery applied over it.

It would at least be nice if products said how high they tend to creep. If I only want a 3/32nds" deep river, am I going to have the same amount of creep up the banks? If I do a 1/32nd" pour and it results in an additional 1/32nd" of creep, if I then make another 1/32nd" pour will the second pour creep up another 1/32nd or will it stop at the height of the creep from the first layer? If the second layer also creeps up an additional 1/32nd", can I make a 1/64th" pour that will only creep up to the height of the creep from the second pour?