Tweezer recommendation ????

[wmcbride]

I was so proud of myself since I had drilled every grab iron/windshield wiper/ lift ring hole on one of my FVM GEVOs without making a mess of it or breaking the drill bit.

Then I proceeded to launch 3 grabs into space when they eluded my tweezers. After the first, I switched to another tweezer and then to a locking tweezer. All failed me; (well, actually, I am sure it was MY failure).

Light, magnification, patience, and the proper tools all support success in N scale.

Can anyone offer advice on an effective tool to use in mounting small parts like grab irons?

[Kisatchie]

Then I proceeded to launch 3 grabs into space when they eluded my tweezers. After the first, I switched to another tweezer and then to a locking tweezer. All failed me; (well, actually, I am sure it was MY failure).

No, the tweezers did in fact fail you. Stupid stupid tweezers! I have the same problem.


Hmm... Kiz has lots of
problems...

[wmcbride]

Yes, but if I had orangutan eyesight and long arms, maybe I could recover them...

[DKS]

First, make sure you have a quality pair of tweezers, such as these: http://www.xytronic-usa.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=71

Then, apply a tiny bit of rubber cement to the tips. Allow to dry. Now you should be able to pick up grabs without launching them.

[engineshop]

For the last ten years I used slant tweezers I bought at a beauty shop for about $25. I always had problems with the pointed tweezers to place the grab irons.

http://www.tweezerman.com/store/product/slant-tweezer/

[Sokramiketes]

I second the recommendation for the stubbier slant tweezers.  The standard hobby tweezers, like DKS shows, tend to launch object just because you can put so much pressure on the long arms.  A slight tip misalignment over that length, and due to the pressure, will cause small parts to launch even better.

I like the short ones, and the slanted tip, for applying grab irons, lift rings, and other small parts.  The wider body, and stubby arms, are harder to misalign. 

If I really need to get a hold of something, I'll also move to needle nose pliers instead of tweezers.  Larger grabs, and especially HO scale, I prefer the pliers.

[ednadolski]

Here is what I have used:

http://www.all-spec.com/

1   1       1               00-SA-PI   TWEEZERS S/S 4.5"              EA   15.50     NET   15.50
                            STRAIGHT TIPS

2   1       1               00-SA      TWEEZERS S/S 4.5"              EA   30.77     NET   30.77
                            STRAIGHT TIPS


HTH,
Ed

[randgust]

I've got about 3 sets that I guard with my life that I've had forever; two very sharp pointed sets and one that's a bit more of a blunt tip. 
All of them have one thing in common; they've been used to the point that the chrome is long-gone off of the tips.  With raw steel out there, they grip much better than they did when new. 

Don't be completely afraid to rebend tips if necessary.   The other thing that will drive you nuts is if you exert normal pressure and the ENDS of the tips come back up.   I check mine regularly and test with a sheet of paper, if I can't hang onto to it with full normal pressure, something is wrong.   If I got a new set, I swear I'd grind the chrome right off the inside of the tips.

You can never have too many different types of tweezers.   And you'll always be unable to find at least one set.

I use the slightly-blunted ones for grab irons because they bend wire so much better - they don't twist over at all and there's more width at the tips to hang onto material.

[VonRyan]

I have some old watchmaker's tweezers of numbered size. I go between the standard #2 and the super-ultra-deluxe-needlepoint #5 tweezers.


-Cody F.

[ednadolski]

You can never have too many different types of tweezers.   And you'll always be unable to find at least one set.

And of course, the one that you can find will not the the one that you are looking for.

Another natural law of tweezers:  the more expensive, the greater the gravitational attraction at the tips.   When dropped, this causes the tip to fall faster than the rest of it, ensuring that the tip will hit the floor (or a bare foot) first.

Ed

[pnolan48]

I have both very sharp and slant tip tweezers. I keep the tips absolutely clean all of the time, dipping them in acetone if I suspect I've picked up any gunk of any kind. I have tiny bits fly away, but try to plan how I am going to grab the bits so they won't fly, and always have a knife blade ready to steady and separate any bit that wants to stick to the tweezer tips. The smaller the bit, the more hands you need! In my left hand I find I can hold one tool between the tip of my thumb and first two fingers, and a second tool between the base of my thumb and the other two fingers. This leaves my right hand to grab the part and position it. I find most small parts like handrails really take two hands to position--the second hand to release the part from the tweezers. Really small bits tend to stick together due to static, magnetism or just plain surface adhesion.

[Joetrain59]

Wow some good tips. I had so many hand made grabs of .008 brass go flying many times. The tweezers I have are not great, but I have others, somewhere:(
 Yes you can find some good tweezers in beauty supply aisle at drug stores. I have a fine needlenose pliers I had to grind a bit at end, but still not happy.
 Love the rubber cement idea!
 Thanks,
 Joe D

[CBQ Fan]

Sure, I ask for input on what everyone uses to lubricate their engines and I get a bunch of smart a$$ answers and nothing useable.  Tweezers on the other hand..........

[rschaffter]

I most often use a pair of small, sharp, curved ones that I got as part of a set either at Harbor Freight or a Homier traveling tool sale.  Unfortunately, that set no longer shows up at either site....

[wbvrail]

I have filed a tiny groove on the inside of fine point tweezers.  File this groove on one side only and it really makes holding on to fine wire pieces a breeze.

Walter