Weekend Update 3/9/14

[up1950s]

Got company coming over so I started this early .

[mark dance]

I guess I am first up with modeling stuff this week. 

I installed the Farr creek bridge.  I always find the installation of bridges "fiddly" especially when the scenery is nearly complete in the areas.  It took quite a bit of time to line everything up and scenic around the piers.  I made up new abutments and put in additional light above the area.  When I had cut a hole in the Scupltamold+plaster cloth web scenery to make room for the piers I found I could shoot expanding foam into the area and within 24 hours it was skinned over enough to accept a light coat of Hydrocal if I was delicate with the application and carved rocks into it while it was still wet.  This saved me a bit of time.

Here are a couple of progress shots and the nearly finished scene...I still need to add more delicate foliage but my supply of Supertrees material awaits a replenishing shipment.

...the holes



...the expanding foam



...the plastered and carved area ready for finishing



...and the nearly finished scene









...and for convenience here is the link to a video of *all* the big bridges on the C&W that is on the other thread.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMKjIb1-HD8

Have a great weekend!

md

[lock4244]

Mark, do use a favour, will ya? Please do something poorly once just so the rest of us can feel a little better in our pedestrian endeavors.

Beautiful as always!

[wcfn100]

Been doing some 3D stuff lately.

My CMO Express car needed a LN Brake Valve.



You'll have to take my word for it looking like this:



I'm having some buyers remorse as I should have have done the reserve and aux. tanks at the same time.  I may have to do a reprint if I don't want to build those by hand.



I also received my Wheeled landing gear.



The 1mm restriction on unsupported details is unacceptable from what I can tell.  I don't think painting it silver is going to do it any favors.  I'll have to figure out a workaround to get down to at least .8mm or go another route.  If you're wondering why I bothered, it's to get the face detail on the wheel.  If not for that I've already built some with styrene.

And finally, when I was in Estes Park a couple weeks ago I pulled in for gas and they had an old 60's pump for Kerosene.  I went over the the hardware store and got a measuring tape and drew it up.



(did I post this already?)

It was rejected by Shapeways, but I didn't make any considerations for RP in the drawing, I just drew it to scale.  I may look into in etched handle when the time comes.


Jason

[lock4244]

No photos, but I've been body mounting and BLMA trucking freight cars for the past month or so. Have done about 40-45 to date... mostly TLT's NSC newsprint boxcars (29 done, 27 to go), but a few FVM and IMRC cars as well. Even with the BLMA 70ton trucks, the NSC's still seem a little high, so one had it's bolsters shaved and, though a minor drop, it is noticeable compared to an unshaved car both in height at the roof and sills to rail.

[BCR751]

Mark,

Since I've started this on another thread, I should ask you....How did you attach the rails to the ties on your Farr Creek bridge?  And, are the ties wood or styrene?

Doug

[mark dance]

Great question Doug...I was wondering how to do it myself and so did a few tests of different techniques I had read about on the internet.  I was actually going to post this as a separate thread but then forgot.

The ties are styrene painted with latex paint.  I tried four approaches:

1) Weldbond  "white" glue coating the back of the rail then pressing the rail down onto the ties while still wet
2) Pilobond "contact" adhesive applied as above
3) Pliobond applied to back of rail then left to dry for 30 mins.  Position rails then reactivate with MEK
4) As above but "reactivate" the Pliobond by heating the rail with a soldering iron

I tested each set up by pressing the rail laterally and looking for movement.  The best results from a stiffness point of view were 4, then 1 & 3, then 2.  1 & 2 did have a tendency to leave a shiny area if there was any leakage around the rail so I went with 4.



Using a heated soldering iron worked like a charm including on the painted guard rails which had painted surfaces all round including where I applied the soldering iron.  Very stiff result...good bonds and no mess.  And I didn't melt the ties from the rail heat much to my surprise though you do need to be very very careful at all times to know where that soldering iron tip is!

Hope that helps. 

md
 

[BCR751]

Thanks for that reply, Mark, and the detailed explanation.  I'm leaning toward the Pliobond and heating method.  First, if the Pliobond is applied and then left to dry on both surfaces, it would allow for the positioning of the rail without having to worry about the glue drying.  Also, one rail could be put in place and then the other one, using the same method, could be done using a track gauge and heating as you go along.  A much more error-free method, in my opinion.  My only deviation will be the use of wood ties.

Doug

[mark dance]

Just for clarity, I only applied the Pliobond to the rail so I didn't have to worry about getting glue in "just the right place" on the ties and then having excess showing afterwards.

Md

[Cajonpassfan]

Mark, another stunning bridge. This one is even more stunning...wonderful
Otto K.

[PAL_Houston]

Mark, do use a favour, will ya? Please do something poorly once just so the rest of us can feel a little better in our pedestrian endeavors.

Beautiful as always!

+a bunch!!

[Kevin C]

Mark.

Well Done!!. The bridge is a masterpiece and completes an amazing scene. Awesome workmanship.

[Jeff AKA St0rm]

Can we change the topic to Mark's Bridge then start another Weekend Update that he isn't invited to 

Great work again Mark

[mark dance]

Well that was the last one so no fear of it happening again! Appologies.
md

[basementcalling]

Well that was the last one so no fear of it happening again! Appologies.
md

I'm sure you'll find something else to blow us away with. Still speechless from the photos of the last bridge. Were most of the parts etchings?

Not sure either what you think the scene around the bridge still needs to look complete. Unless, could you put a hidden view window below the thing so guests could get a peek at it from directly underneath?