Nittany and Lock Haven: An HCD Layout in N Scale

[tappertrainman]

If you have a chance, can you describe how you used the unsanded grout?  I got some and started applying it like I would plaster.  I mixed it up somewhat soupy and then brushed over the actual plaster hills and valleys.  I'm not sure it's the look I was going for, it seems very smooth.

[primavw]

1. Brush on Elmer's glue to area receiving grout
2. Sift grout through household tea strainer or flour sifter
3. Once desired amount is applied, use atomizer to spray wet water over area
4. Lay 50/50 white glue/water mix over area.
5 Let Dry

I'm sure there are other methods out there... trouble is if you mix grout with water and spread it on you will get a smooth surface as opposed to a rough dirt appearance

[Philip H]

I sift on the grout dry, then mist it with water until it is saturated. Then I walk away. It sets hard in about 4 hours - I is grout after all and once watered properly behaves just like the grout in your tiles - which doesn't require glue.

[timwatson]

Wow - I LOVE the cave scene. I'd say you nailed reality there. I can hear that water falling down the rocks. Nice work.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

1. Brush on Elmer's glue to area receiving grout
2. Sift grout through household tea strainer or flour sifter
3. Once desired amount is applied, use atomizer to spray wet water over area
4. Lay 50/50 white glue/water mix over area.
5 Let Dry

I'm sure there are other methods out there... trouble is if you mix grout with water and spread it on you will get a smooth surface as opposed to a rough dirt appearance

After you're done, brush away anything that hasn't set.

My current technique is to paint everything with glue, sift on the unsanded grout pretty heavily, then brush off anything that didn't stick. This leaves a really nice fine texture.

[primavw]

Wow - I LOVE the cave scene. I'd say you nailed reality there. I can hear that water falling down the rocks. Nice work.

Thank you, compliments are always welcome. I still have some touch up work and scenicking to do in that area, but as I mentioned, I wanted to get the bulk of the work done so I could permanently fix the bridges in place without having to scenic around them.

Tonight I may have completed track work but ran out of time to test it all out. I'm hoping that I installed it well enough that there won't be any glitches.

[primavw]

I completed track work and ran trains with no problems tonight! Here's a quick video to commemorate it!

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Won't let me embed, not sure why

[primavw]

Wow, it has been a little while since I added an update. Recently I installed a Masonite scenic divider and built up the hills with foam, newspaper and plaster cloth.

An overall pic of the Clymer side of the layout which is still drying.


The Clymer Coal scene. In front along the rails will be two small ponds which represent the real ones. In the middle I built a small riser for a land bridge.


Dixon Run Creek and the future spot for a stone bridge over the creek. On the right will be the town of Clymer, with Route 403/Penn Street on the riser just in front of that.


And the mocked-up bridge which I kitbashed from an Atlas viaduct kit.

[tappertrainman]

Looking good, what do you plan to use on top of the plaster cloth?  The cloth texture and overlap is pretty visible in some of the pics. 

James

[primavw]

Looking good, what do you plan to use on top of the plaster cloth?  The cloth texture and overlap is pretty visible in some of the pics. 

James

Yeah, I plan on addressing that when everything dries. Most likely joint compound or sculptamold

[crrcoal]

What are you using for coal loads? and for coal piles later on in Clymer?

[primavw]

The coal loads are made by a company called Haybrothers.

I haven't looking into what I will be using to simulate the coal at the coalveyor quite yet and am open to suggestions.

[primavw]

Wow, I can't believe I haven't updated in almost two months. Even though the layout hasn't changed much, I have been keeping busy with other things. I work two jobs so train time comes at a premium, but I do try to get something small accomplished on a daily basis.

Anyhow, sometime in April I attempted to build a highway bridge overpass by making castings from Hydrocal. It really didn't look right after all of that work so I scrapped it. I ordered a few Rix kits and they are waiting to be built.

I then began work on the Clymer Coalveyor. It is completely scratchbuilt from styrene and other items. Here is a photo of my CSX Dash 9 next to the Coalveyor for scale:


Next, I spent about another month building, detailing and finishing an RJ Corman SD40-2. Corman motive power is used to bring empties to the coalveyor and drag them out when full. They will meet up with NS power later on down the line. I will eventually build one more for a lashup.



This brings us up to recently. I built another mountain base from foam and let that dry. Tonight I laid plaster cloth and unfortunately I ran out of plaster cloth. But here are a few photos anyway.




And a view from inside the tunnel access port. I'm trying to think of a way to block this port to keep the light out.... suggestions?

[chris.mincemoyer]

Nice work, love the water from the cave.  As far as blocking light, I assume you want to keep access, why not just some black cloth hot glued to the scenery?

Chris

[packers#1]

Liking the progress; as to blocking the light, get some cardboard and a can of black spray paint (99 cents at Walmart) and spray the cardboard black. let it dry, then duck tape (duct tape? Nuh-uh, ducK tape  ) it to the tunnel portal access on the top so that the tape acts like a hinge for lifting the cardboard up. It's cheap, quick, and will work great.