Doug,
Typically, I will paint the parts individually or in sub-assemblies using Testor's spray paints "right out of the can" as much as possible:
I will build the chassis (frame, bumpers, wheels and seat) using CA glue or J B Kwik Weld and paint this sub-assembly with Testors Flat Black spray paint. I have found that this paint gives an excellent thin, even coat that dries quickly and does not cover up the detail. Testors Flat White works well too as both a color and a primer if you want to give the cab and body parts color. If I want a different color tone than what comes from the can, I will spray a coat of Flat Black first (for a darker tone) or spray the metal parts directly (for a more mid-range tone). The yellow paint of #49 is Krylon equipment yellow right out of the can and sprayed directly to the metal parts (I like the darker yellows). This "household" paint covers and dries well but is a little thicker than the Testors paints.
To give the models some "aged" effect, I use pastel chalks applied (actually rubbed in) with a small paint brush: White chalk on the black painted chassis assembly with a little dirt brown gives an aged look to the frame and tires. Black pastel chalk will add depth to the color paint finish (go easy on the white painted parts) by filling in some of the recesses. Black chalk brushed over the white chalk on the chassis (even in the wheels) gives a "well used" look of realism.
Any fine details (lights, wheel rim edges or bolt heads) are painted last using silver, red, orange, or white to give the overall model a little bit of 'pop'.
Gluing the parts after painting has not been a problem using CA glue (I have found that "less is more" when using CA glue - too much takes too long to dry). The paint could be removed by scraping with a knife blade to expose the metal on touching surfaces if necessary - the CA glue doesn't need very much surface area to make a good bond.
Walter
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