Author Topic: Best Of New Brass EP-2 assembly & Mod clinic  (Read 107589 times)

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u18b

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Re: New Brass EP-2 assembly & Mod clinic
« Reply #420 on: July 17, 2014, 10:24:33 PM »
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Hi Peteski,
Like we said, we don't want to make this into a camera thread.
But here is the answer to your question about what I use.

For years, I used an old Nikon 5700.  Had a few problems, but it took GREAT close photography.
But I longed for a DSLR.

Since I was a long-time Minolta Maxxum film camera user, I was attracted to the newest iteration- the Sony Alpha series.  I dreamed for years.  But finally pulled the trigger when the specs were hard to resist.

I use a Sony Alpha 65.
It is 24 megapixel.
Has live view- without damaging the camera (some live views could overheat the CMOS sensor).
And best for me- it takes ALL Maxxum camera lenses from even 25 years ago.  I had several Maxxum lenses.

So for modeling, I use that camera with a typical 28-75 zoom lens.  The lens is pretty cheap, but a high quality glass lens is expensive.  One day I'll get one.  With my cheap lens, there is a very slight fuzziness to the photo-- although 24 mp kind-of makes up for it.  The photoediting software I use can sharpen things up too.

And then as most photographers here know, the real magic is the use of extension tubes.

Here is the camera with lens and 2 extension tubes (black, near the body).



An extension tube is made for your specific camera and is really nothing more that a hollow tube of differing lengths.
The longer the tube, the closer the macro shot. You can also stack them for REALLY close shots.

You actually do the most of your focusing with the zoom feature of the lens.  Without a zoom lens, you would have to actually move the camera distance to your object to find the focal point- which is junk.  So extension tubes with zoom lens is the way to go.


In the photo above, you can see 5 little gold contacts inside the extension tube.  That is because I've had this for 25 years and it went to my old Maxxum 7000.  Later ones have more contacts.

So I shot most of these photos for this thread with:
-- a plain old desk lamp.
-- a tripod
-- and I have an old "bulb" (cable release) from my ancient Maxxum 7000.  Low and behold, Sony uses the same socket after all these year.  The cable release keeps the camera more still than pressing the shutter button up on the camera.

I shoot in Aperture mode with the highest number (usually) and let the camera's computer pick the right shutter speed (which is sometime 5 seconds or so- thus the cable release is needed).

Lastly, sometimes I need my hands tied up with the shot.
So I cut a wooden popcicle stick and duct taped it to the cable release.
This allows me to take the shot with my mouth.

In fact, here is our intrepid modeller at work.


The live view is VERY helpful for modelling shots and saves me a lot of neck strain.
Actually, the only thing missing from that staged shot is the optivisor I use!

This camera also allows me to control the temperature of the light source.
For example, since I am shooting in low light with no flash, I usually set the temperature in Kelvins to add more bluish tones.

And not that you asked, but the photoediting I do is with GIMP (free) on my Linux Mint (free) operating system.

Sorry for the long answer, but that is what I now use.
Of course, if I was taking shots I planned to use in a magazine, I'd use better lighting.

This system gives me the macro shots I've always wanted.



LOL- except for that last macro shot, all the rest of the shots for this post were taken with my old Canon Rebel XT.
« Last Edit: July 17, 2014, 10:44:16 PM by u18b »
Ron Bearden
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"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

u18b

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Re: New Brass EP-2 assembly & Mod clinic
« Reply #421 on: July 18, 2014, 01:50:53 AM »
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Been working on the striping on the other walkway......

And there's something that's bugging me.

Colors play all kinds of tricks.

In the case of those stripes, when I place the painted shell up near the stripes on the decal sheet (with pale blue background), the colors look awful close.



But when that same decal is placed on a red/black background......


.... it comes out on the more yellow side.  Notice the difference where the stripe and the handrail cross each other at the ladder.

I'm going to have to think about this for a while.




Ron Bearden
CSX N scale Archivist
http://u18b.com

"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

victor miranda

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Re: New Brass EP-2 assembly & Mod clinic
« Reply #422 on: July 18, 2014, 02:12:44 AM »
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Hi Ron,
do you know that the prototype was all painted at one time?
that is, did they give the loco a 'dresser' stripe? for a photo session after the original painting...

the other thing is to test how the decal looks once clear coated.

doing my best to help you avoid tedium with a tiny brush.
(the sea going expression is; there's always the devil to pay.)

victor

u18b

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Re: New Brass EP-2 assembly & Mod clinic
« Reply #423 on: July 18, 2014, 02:17:21 AM »
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I assume it was painted all at the same time since the scheme was developed just for the Chicago Railroad Fair.

Clear coating is a good idea.

The other thing I'm thinking about is doubling the decals- orange on top of orange.
Ron Bearden
CSX N scale Archivist
http://u18b.com

"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

bbussey

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Re: New Brass EP-2 assembly & Mod clinic
« Reply #424 on: July 18, 2014, 10:10:26 AM »
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Ron,

If the stock stripes end up not being the shade you want ... I suggest spraying clear decal paper with MILW orange, and cutting proper-width stripes with a steel straight-edge and X-Acto blade after the paint is dry.  That should solve the paint match issue.  If the orange paint is not opaque enough, you can spray a base coat of white before the orange.

Bryan Busséy
NHRHTA #2246
NSE #1117
www.bbussey.net


u18b

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Re: New Brass EP-2 assembly & Mod clinic
« Reply #425 on: July 18, 2014, 10:35:33 AM »
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That's also a good suggestion Bryan.


Here's some things I'm thinking....

1.  The decal idea worked GREAT overall.  I know there is NO way a masked line would be that straight and sharp on such a thin edge.

2.  I know I'm experiencing a bit of perfectionism here.  For many, the color is close enough.  But I suspect that the more a person is a true Milw fan, those folks would be more likely to notice.

3.  After doing some photography, I think I'm partially running up against the difference between the human eye and the camera.  Many people might not think the human eye is as good as a 24 mp camera, but that is not true overall.  While the camera may have greater resolution (especially if you need glasses), the ability of the human eye to see color differentials is amazing.

So I think I'm seeing something that the camera is not picking up that well.  To my eye, the handrail at the steps is orange, and the stripe is yellowish-orange.

4.  I'm also aware that you eye can play tricks on you .  The computer in your brain makes slight adjustments in interpreting color depending on what colors are close to each other.

Take a look at these two shots.  Similar shots (I won't say "same" since the exposure will be very different).

In this shot, the handrail and the stripe look fairly close.



In this photo, it is a little more discernible to me.



I think I'm going to do some experimenting in non-important parts of the model. (like under the motor mount).

Ron Bearden
CSX N scale Archivist
http://u18b.com

"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

peteski

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Re: New Brass EP-2 assembly & Mod clinic
« Reply #426 on: July 18, 2014, 11:36:40 AM »
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Thanks for the explanation Ron!  I still use my Nikon CoolPix 8700 - it has a great macro capability.  But in the past (in the days of 35mm film) I used a Nikon FG with extension rings (tubes).  I still have that camera. Some day I'll gen a DSLR (probably another Nikon). Partly because I like Nikons, partially because I will be able to use my lenses (only in manual mode).
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Chris333

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Re: New Brass EP-2 assembly & Mod clinic
« Reply #427 on: July 18, 2014, 08:58:35 PM »
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Saw this HO brass at a show and had to take a pic  :)

u18b

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Re: New Brass EP-2 assembly & Mod clinic
« Reply #428 on: July 18, 2014, 09:08:47 PM »
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Spent some time experimenting.

Here is one decal stripe over red.
And then you can see in the middle there is a second decal.
Some difference, but not a lot.



Here is the same scenario over black.
The differences are a bit stronger.
Two decals makes for a purer orange stripe.



So I went ahead and added a second stripe.
First- one stripe walkway with B shell.



next a walkway with two stripes.
Same B shell.



And now two longer views.




« Last Edit: July 18, 2014, 09:10:47 PM by u18b »
Ron Bearden
CSX N scale Archivist
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"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

u18b

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Re: New Brass EP-2 assembly & Mod clinic
« Reply #429 on: July 18, 2014, 09:34:10 PM »
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Hey Chris.
Thanks for posting that shot of HO models.

Those are Iron Horse Models (Precision Scale) EP-2.

Those are nothing like the NJ Custom Brass EP-2 (in HO).

In fact, it is kind-of interesting that the NJ model in HO sells for much less than the crappy N scale version.  You can commonly find the HO NJ model for $200-300.

Those models you have pictured tend to go for about 1300-1800.

Ron Bearden
CSX N scale Archivist
http://u18b.com

"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

spookshow

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Re: New Brass EP-2 assembly & Mod clinic
« Reply #430 on: July 19, 2014, 07:34:17 AM »
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Color matching is such a tricky business...

When I look at this picture all by itself I'd be hard pressed to say that there was anything wrong with the stripes -



But when I look at this picture, they definitely look righter (as compared to the first photo) -



Cheers,
-Mark

u18b

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Re: New Brass EP-2 assembly & Mod clinic
« Reply #431 on: July 19, 2014, 11:49:13 AM »
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Mark,

Thanks for the feedback.

I know it looks like I'm going overboard with this... (and I probably am)..

But partially, my camera is not quite catching the fine distinctions of yellow that my eye can see.

So I would put it this way.  If we could talk about slight variations as "shades"...

Then with one stripe, the stripe and the ModelFlex orange are about 2 shades off.

Doubling the stripe makes them about only one shade off.  Enough that if you studied it, you might or might not notice.

At any rate, I think it looks better with two.

I'm almost finished with the striping.

I'm now going to need to go back and do a little touch up work.
Like some orange decal did get on the water pipe.
Black on a jacking pad,
a bit more red on the nose grabs.  stuff like that.

Then I will do another clear coat and the walkway will be finished.
Ron Bearden
CSX N scale Archivist
http://u18b.com

"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

u18b

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Re: New Brass EP-2 assembly & Mod clinic
« Reply #432 on: July 29, 2014, 07:41:53 PM »
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Whew!
Wow.

I think I just spent over 2 hours masking for about 10 minutes of airbrushing.

Just finished some gray.

Will probably post some photos by about midnight tonight.

(does anybody model the black scheme days!  Hahaha.

This is about the hardest scheme I have ever painted.
(not that there are not other hard ones out there.)

Ron Bearden
CSX N scale Archivist
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"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

peteski

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Re: New Brass EP-2 assembly & Mod clinic
« Reply #433 on: July 29, 2014, 09:33:41 PM »
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Ron,
I have a warning about your pantograph springs. I finally examined the ones I bought from you.  I haven't touched them since they arrived (I did look at them through the plastic bag when they first arrived).  When I examined them, few had small dark areas showing on the surface. Looked like oxidation (rust).  I then randomly picked one of them (it happened to be one of the ones with the rust spot) to play with it (to stretch it to see how stiff it was). When I pulled on the ends, the spring broke at the rust spot. It appears that the rust weakened the wire.  I did not use too much force (as the other springs survived a similar exercise and they returned to the original length after I stopped pulling).

So make sure to keep your pantograph springs rust free. Maybe coat them with oil or paint them.  The last thing you would want is to have to replace those springs.
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u18b

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Re: New Brass EP-2 assembly & Mod clinic
« Reply #434 on: July 29, 2014, 10:10:02 PM »
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Peteski,

Thanks.

Mine are on painted on my model.

PM your address again, and I'll send you some more.
Sorry.

Ron
Ron Bearden
CSX N scale Archivist
http://u18b.com

"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.