Kumata Brass Patients are being healed!!!!! Update

[DKS]

If it were me, I'd think about putting a nice fat flywheel on the motor shaft past the worm. (Much tinkering required, I can tell, but may be worth it.) This could help balance the weight distribution, and improve slow speed performance as well.
I'd also cut a hole in the bottom of the shell to clear that pilot screw...

[u18b]

Y'all have come up with some interesting ideas.
And I already had a couple I might try myself.... but this is Bob Bufkin's loco.

And I'm about done working on it.

If I had my own, I would be more likely to try experimenting and even risking damage.

I know where I can get a Centipede in about mint condition for around $800- if it is still available.
So if anyone wants to make a gift, I would be a really happy tinkerer.   

Hahaa.

[u18b]

I'm so thankful I now have an E5 set coming.

I really appreciate all the folks who are helping me.

Here is a list of items I would still like to borrow, if someone has them.

EMD SD40-2, Hallmark/Kumata (Japan)

Alco RSC-2 (or 3?  Not sure), Hallmark/Kumata (Japan)

EMD E3/6A & E3/6B, Hallmark/Kumata (Japan)

EMD E1A & E1B (Super Chief), Oriental Ltd/Kumata (Japan)

New Haven Washboard Add-on cars  (just the add-on cars)

PRR Electrics, NJ Intl/Kumata (Japan)  (there are about 5 all total)

Budd Silverliner, NJ Intl/Kumata (Japan)

Thank you!
Ron

[mmagliaro]

What if you were to attatch a bent brass strip directly to the sides of the gear tower in such a way that it cleared the worm (think block letter T without the bottom):
________
|              |
|              |
|_          _|
   |        |
   |        |

... and then attached the shell to the top or side surfaces somehow.  This would put the weight of the shell centered directly over the two driven axles.

I have seen a few of these, and never had the chance to actually work on one.  But I really think that John has the right idea here.
Solder a heavy brass plate over the top and make the bolster mount right there, between drivers 1,2.
You could make a T shape, as he suggests and try to use the same bolster design as the original.  But I am really wondering
if you would just use a simpler post and screw right to the top of the body shell.  Actually mount the truck to the underside
of the body roof.  The trucks would now swivel freely with the entire weight of the body dead-on on the powered wheels.

As for the pilot truck screw that rubs, just file/adjust until it stops taking pressure off the drivers.
Sliding the motor and adding a flywheel seem straightforward enough.
This is not a "simple" mod, exactly.  You definitly have to bend/drill/solder a little to remount the motor.

[u18b]

I am so overwhelmingly thankful for the help and support I have gotten on this project.

An E5 arrived today
And i just lined up an SD40-2.

I learn more and more with each piece i acquire.
I also went through 10 years of BLW newsletters and learned even more.

All of it will be documented. I'm at 60 pages on my book and have a long way to go.

The last items i need are

Hallmark E3/6
Oriental E1
Hallmark RS-1
Hallmark RSD-4/5
NJ PENNSY commuter cars
NJ Pennsy Silvrrliner

So far everyone has gotten their loco back better than before. All except the Centipede were dramatically better.
The E5 i got today actually doesn't need much and has been the best out of the box i have dealt with.

Keep em coming!  With my thanks.
Ron

[bbussey]

I stumbled across an RS-1 that I forgot about.

[u18b]

Oh yes!

I could use one.  While it should be almost identical to the RS-2, Pete Postel in the BLW newsletter referenced a change.

The RS-2 and RS-3 came out at the same time and I'm sure are identical.

The RS-1 and the RSD-4/5 were part of the next release.

BTW-  did you get a chance to run your Washboard yet?

[bbussey]

Not yet.  I get back home Monday so maybe next weekend.  I did look at it though, to see what I had to do to correct the decals.  I'll also have to shrink the coupler spacing.

[u18b]

Well, I have finished up with the E5 and almost finished with the SD40-2  (repairing this one for someone).

The E5 set was fantastic.  It was the only Kumata offering that I have had in my hands that I did not offer to make changes.  It ran perfectly.  I studied it, photographed it, and sent it back as is.

I also had contact with the MP-54 PRR set.

I also now have an E1 first run set coming (with dummy B!) and an RS-1.

At this moment, I only need ONE Kumata brass piece to get by- (and two more would be icing on the cake).

The one I really need and don't feel I can adequately draw conclusions on until I see some details of the chassis- is the Silverliner set made for PRR and Reading.

If anyone had one, I'd love to at least talk with you about it.  At first glance, it looks like it might be just like the Washboard set-- but I don't think it is.

The last two are minor and would be icing on the cake if I could see them:

E3/6, especially if it is Chrome plated.  I've never seen a plated on and did not even know they existed until digging in research.

The other is an RSD-4/5

Thanks again for everyone's help and interest.

I hope to be sharing some exciting things in the future as a result of all this.

And by the way, New Haven fans, I have a line on where you could buy a rare Washboard set in the orange white and face scheme.  PM if you want more info.